Pete Lewis

Just rebuilt a single rail and j type for an area car that cast iron clutch hsg on the 4 pot is a manic heavy lump of old iron on any Od box its worth tack welding the two mounting bolts into the mount base there is little room to fit any socket or ground down spanner to fit in and hold thd bolt heads A wonderous design then its easy to nip the nuts up from down under pete

here's an old favourite, when ever you mess with the fuel hoses you cut a sliver of rubber off the inside of the hose with the inserting metal pipe these float back and forth till they end up stuck in the float valve, hence pump some fuel out the supply to let them out make sure there are no sharp cutting ends to the tubes Pete

Sounds like you have some debris in the back of the float needle valve, need to remove the valve and pump fuel, into a jar to flush the feed line., you can take this valve off on the car but may be easier with the carb on a bench remove the spark plugs and dry them , check the air filter is not fuel contaminated pete

On some trucks there is a bleed valve set in the top hose , bit like a screw in tyre valve idea. on most heralds a quick release of the top heater hose connection will allow air locks out just pull it apart a little and pop it on when coolant leaks out. Give it a fast idle at same time pete

if its on the pedal stop then one solution is to slot the cyl bracket and this allows some adjustment and it will raise the pedal but dont remove the pushrod free play must have a little slack with foot off. used good washers to support the slots. If you remove the cyl does the pedal then line up ? There are a multitude of nearly right after market alternatives out there , most need you to use the old push rod there could be a clue there . pete

The links should have the bonnet pivot on the single hole and the slots clamped to the dumb iron the wsm shows them upside down the parts list shows them correct with slots up Pete

may be we now need a Pet section ???? so its dump the hose then but how it circulates with the stat shut will remain one of lifes unkown none of the schematics show this . well i dont see it back to the cat food. maybe a cabonara with sprinkle of catnip Pete

yes early non heated manifold cars seem to have just heater connections from rear of head to valve and heater outlet to the under manifold return to the back of the pump no other complications , what happens when the stat is shut heck knows there are no circulation clues in any of my manuals only a rough clue on heated mani .

Looking at that its a delaney heater without a valve , so its a now available full flow heater box must be some clues elsewhere, the cats got me up early tearing around , must try some of her food , might liven me up a bit !! pete

Some marques wsm show the coolant flow , dont think triumph do , will have a search in the morning But tracing how the flow goes there must be a route to allow some flow from say the back of the head to the input to the pump when stat and heater is closed if you can fathom a way you can loose the extra pipe pete

From memory ??? the pipe acts as part of the bypass when the stat is closed , and heater closed A nice bit of polished copper tube would cope better with heat from the 4 2 1 Darren its looking good pete

Herts and Beds have a good range of Heralds, we meet at the Raven Hexton 8pm every fourth monday Maps in the area directory on the home page next meet is March 27th April 24th we had 36 members at the last meeting there will be a Herald whatever the weather pete

When refitting keep, engine high, you must get the clutch hsg parallel to the back plate just looking gives a false view, use two long studs in the back of the block to support the box and help alignment when its starts to re enter you check you are parallel use a bit of timber as a gap gauge to help see the gap is equal all round , it helps If its all fair and square it wil pop on easy pete

Dont jack the gear box raise the engine with a support under the back of the sump either in onto the cranckcase or a lock under the sump. Raise enough to be above the tunnel and prop or close to it. If the prop gets in the way , try tipping the coupling or remove the prop as lasf resort, once it exits the clutch you can lift the tail over the tunnel when its raised get a length of timber and lever between the chassis rail and the base of the box pry it rewards, as soon as a small gap appears at the back plate sit on floor and just pull it off quick dont let it hang on the clutch, you may need to rotate to get the clutch hsg under the dash Removing the rubber cotton reels make rearwards travel easier DO NOT lever the enging back plate these bend easy and then you get clutch failures due to misalignments

They should all work ok providing the jet bore the needle , the piston weight, and damper spring all meet the oe spec they should be fine where you get cd cds cdse then the evolved differences need correcting you may not get the right biased top adjusting needle spec to be as a fixed needle you can use two cds both with a choke starting valve and that works ok you can get different piston weights and spring wire diameters its down to knowing what spec you need and making what you have on the car match that.. whether its a Cd fixed needle with a thames barrier choke , a CDS with a starting valve and base jet adjustment( prefered) or a CDSE or later with all the bells and whistles the base carb Still all do the same job if you convert either to the base triumph spec temperature compensators can be reset to the book with a lot of faffing and tempersture measuring of cork the bl*ody things shut needle selections for pancakes etc are unlikely to be found , some changes to SU to get a range of needles but cock it up sucking hot air ,

it can all be a bit tight, cant see why anyone would shim the engine mount platorms, , i have seen various things added to ease a tight fitting 6 3 1 manifold but should not be required on a std car. if its the hose clip fouling turn it to have the screw under the hose , has the hose been fitted with a upward twist, it should curve down to the radiator the bonnet height can be adjusted under the underrider is a slotted link you can raise the front height up from the apron , but this wil give a taper to the door front edge. to reduce the bonnet to bulkhead turn the turnbuckle barrel nuts on the rods to the turrets these have lh and rh threads which will increase or decrease the gap . Pete

SE were never used on Vitesse as far as i recall, the vents are for sealed crank case breather systems you could pipe with a tee into the rocker port and dump the smiths valve and plug the manifold tapping but a plug with a simple plastic cap would be neater than a bolt you could just tube the two together looks better but keeps them from sucking air . xif the oil filler and any other open to suck air are not 'sealed' then you dont want these connected unless you like a really lean mixture and endless setting problems so bit of hose to siamese them is the simplest option Pete

Reminds me of the old ford vacuum powered wipers open the throttle up hills and they ground to a halt down hill and throttled back they went crazy .... looney design. will hunt the 2nd flasher on my mk2 its been up in the air for a few days while I whipped the sump off to change the thrust washers.. Will have a look today pete

new nuts always finish a job off. get a good supply of nuts bolts and washers and a nice rack with all the sizes marked easter present !!!!! Pete

You slipped, Needs some shiny nuts on the shocker stem pete

If you get any bubbles entering the filter then you are sucking air from a leaky joint or hose between filter and pump if there is just a void /air gap in the filter ,,, dont worry about it its fine your output to the carbs is a good squirt then all happy and smiling Think about your modern it has a solid metal canister filter , you cant see whats going on and hence cant worry about it pete

The only way is mount the filter vertical so the air , gas, flatulence , exits up the pipe line and out through to the vent ... in the carb

trouble with upside down is the electrolyte makes a mess thats a positive or negative thought

I have had a chat with Bern and yes the workshop is limited and far too small to do much what he wants to do is erect one of the LeMans tents in the carpark and maybe do a BBQ and open the shop this would enable a much bigger audience etc. I will still do a at home twiddle day based on the interest so far and put some time into developing a what and when up at HQ so its watch this space Pete

My ceteck packed up and a lidl unit for £12 is working well, you have to set the mode for car when connecting but for a fraction of the cost is a good unit. you dont want to up the capacity too much battery life is much better if the cells are cycled from charging to discharging keeps the plates working , if its too big you dont get a ballanced use and cells will die early through lack of use If I sit on a cold floor I dont start too well either pete