Paul H

Window out now , slid a steel rule to slide over obstructions like kinked rubber from window base . No poly attached to window , so somebody has been here before me . There is felt in the channels though rough. Now struggling with Quarter light and the bracket is stopping progress Paul

Thanks Pete , the leather washers are there but struggling to remove the window , feels like I’ve forgotten to remove a bracket or something Paul

Still removing the door internals marking everything to assist with reassembly after spraying . Removing the clips which hold the operating arms to the window channel base was interesting to say the least . The WSM says remove the 2 clips . The trouble is you can’t see them as they face the door . The answer was to use a small mirror plus torch to see what needed to be done . The clips might might need to be reoriented to gain access with a small screwdriver The purple ring is the mirror This is what the clip looks like Paul

Thanks for your input and you are correct . The finisher slots between the quarter light and the door and is completely covered by the wooden door capping . The gap will need to be sealed to prevent water ingress so looking at using a sealant . Paul

The handles are off with an overnight soak of wd40 and starting to remove mechanisms. I found some wadding covered in thick plastic at the bottom of the door so guess this was for sound deadening . The vinyl door covering is in great shape with all the retaining clips though the hardboard will need replacing which is handy as the Club were selling these for a £1 each a couple of years ago so picked up a couple . I’ll either put the wadding back or more likely replace with SilentCoat deadening sheets . One casualty is the short chrome strip which goes between the quarter light and the door . The WSM says it’s a “finisher waist-forward inner” I’m sure it’s not available though asking if there is modern replacement or a work around is this strip common to Heralds or just to the Vitesse Paul

The door cards are cleaning up nicely and better condition than the ones currently on the Vitesse. The winder pin is out but won’t move so oiling to assist as don’t want to crack the winder . I’m missing the “button” as per the pic . Anybody know where they can be obtained looks like the button clips over a claw bracket Paul

Purchased these from a chicken shed just 2 miles from where I live . Full of triumph bits . The matching doors are from a Vitesse . They are solid with just some surface rust . The only downside is one of them has been dropped and will need some work . Plan is to restore, so I can still use my Vitesse I added some black tape to highlight the quarter light markings Paul

I found this YouTube tutorial useful re UJs https://youtu.be/1_itF2vDy_s Scott Best’s restoration videos are very good Paul

Nice gaps Paul

From your pics the fuel pipe shows signs of cracking so would look to upgrade to Gates Barricade , purchase from the Club or Moss and leave EBay alone as there is a lot of fake around Paul

On my mk2 vitesse I have Accuspark and found the best setting is approx 15dg anything below this I found flat spots on accelerating . I don’t use additives and use Tesco Momentum when I can Paul

If it’s like Accuspark if the magnet touches the outer and you run the car you will fry the unit . Equally with the Accuspark if you wire incorrectly you will fry the unit . Don’t ask me how I know Paul

I changed the Rotoflexes, ujs, wheel bearings on my Vitesse approx 3 years ago on my own and it was the most difficult time consuming job . I could do it today much quicker using the followings tips when reassembling Jack up the spring lifter with a trolley until it starts to lift the car , drop down a fraction , I did have to use wooden blocks for the jack Assemble all links leaving the top vertical link bolt till last Use a scissor jack under the vertical link to line up ( easier said than done ) . To assist the lining up I cut a 24 ins wrecking bar ( Toolstation ) leaving a 6 ins point . Any more and you wouldn’t get access. Tap / hammer in the point to assist lining up Using a mirror on the other side you can gauge whether the top bolt will go in and drive out the pointed bar. This worked on one side though did use a screwdriver to assist lining up , the other side refused to line up.The scissor jack will be constantly changed with the levelling process For the obstinate side I used a longer bolt which I ground to a point which worked . I then sawed it in place and filed the leading edge and added the nut. Not quite as per the workshop manual but needs must Paul

Newbie ? What is regarded as good oil pressure ? Paul

Would an impact wrench work ? Paul

Checking the MOT history there is a history of chassis corrosion so this would have to be checked thoroughly before parting with monies Paul

Big thumbs up to Classic Car LEDs. Bought their led stop and tail lights, but being a numpty purchased the 381 LED which have same level pins . My Vitesse needs bulb equivalent 380 which have stepped pins . Duncan accepted return and posted the correct leds with no extra postage charge . The new leds are approx 50% brighter and amp saving on the 50 yr old wiring . Cost for 2 leds was £16 including postage . I have also previously purchased their dash panel lights which are much brighter than the originals NB they have an on line pdf which shows the led equivalent bulbs for our cars . Pity I didn’t read it 😱 Paul

I bought my rotoflexes and bolts from Canleys Paul

I was a fan of SGS and have 2 x 2 ton jacks . 1 failed after 13 months and the other one is slow . SGS didn’t want to help other than to sell spare parts which came to 80% of original cost . They only give 1 year warranty Since bought 2 from Aldi which are still working fine plus keep the receipt for 3 years and cheaper than SGS Paul

EBay is a good source , leave cheeky bids for Wanner guns and you will get them hopefully for less than £15 each Paul

Hi Clive , oil change was “normal” for me ie run the engine for a few mins , and drop the oil Paul

Ok glad to write for the Courier . Paul

My gut feeling is that the Mann filter played a part as that’s the only thing that was new . For any future oil changes I’m thinking of modifying a filter cutting a hole in the top , removing the innards so it will act as a funnel to backfill like I did for this exercise without the need to move the filter housing With the ability to backfill I would use the Mann filter again Paul

I think we need pinned items when “nominated” and more than happy to write an abridged version if required . Paul

Yes 90% certain both the same size and thread looks same Paul