ahebron

I bought one of these a few weeks back. http://www.kelston.nz/Scissor-Lift.php At present all I know is its bloody heavy and made from thick steel with large diameter rams and takes 10 litres of oil. Have yet to use it as was offered a good price ( a lot cheaper than listed) so bought it straight away. At present it is leant up against the wall annoying Rhyna as its pothers her car entry and egress. Great thing about the Vitesse is the gearbox comes out the inside of the car so no worries about the hoist being in the way. Adrian

Thats just great. I start reading an article about a Vitesse steering wheel and it ends about the radio bracket that I had no idea existed. Learn something everyday. Adrian

Loving all the replies.😉 Thanks guys

Afternoon I have purchased off Trademe a second hand new Rimmers alloy rocker cover for one of my Vitesse 6. I was surprised to see no rebate in the bottom of the cover to help locate the gasket. Should there be one? If not does the standard cork one fit or do I have to buy a different one? Thanks Adrian

Would a nice piece of 9mm 5 ply would help tighten up rear end body flex in a saloon? Adrian

Just be careful you dont over do it and then have to push it back out like I did.🙄 I also cracked one of the joins on the rear valance by the rh side window😫 Adrian

Or as the glass is flat get new ones cut to the correct profile. I went though this with my Vitesse 6 as I had the wrong shape made first time ☹️ Adrian

If its any use to you it is the same across Herald and Vitesse saloons. Adrian

Thats about how long it takes me to istall my hydraulic body spread adjuster. Just be careful you dont pull too far and split the top deck join below the rear of the roof DAMHIK? Luckily with the hydraulics I was able to push it back out. Adrian

Broken leaf? I had that on my Mk4 a few years ago. Caused by a driving a bit to fast over a bridge and then finding out the other side was slightly washed out. She landed heavily and broke a leaf at the rear. Adrian

Wow great work. A tip that was passed onto me by a car painter was that once you have used your wire wheel to remove the paint or whatever back to shiney metal go over it again with 80 grit scourer before coating. His reasoning was that the wire wheel polishes the bare metal once the coating has gone and the scourer breaks that up allowing the paint to adhere better. It sounds logical and I have no idea if this is true but was prepared to give ago as it was only a couple of minutes work and after seeing the coating the previous painter had put under my car peel off due to gravity it cant hurt. I completely stripped the underside of my car back to bare metal then recoated it and did the same chasing the spider rust below the powdercoated chassis. This was on a body that had never been fitted to the chassis since painting 5 years ago. Chassis was powder coated at least 20 years ago if not more. I have some photos somewhere. Adrian

Just wait till winter when it will fill up and freeze. No danger of falling in but be careful of slipping Adrian

Funny thing is my original idea was to do somehting similar to your but using hydraulics converting pushing motion into pulling motion by sliding bars fixed like yours past each other on a pushing ram which I had. I do like the odds and sods method you have used, it just proves that you dont need the stupid amount of work I put into what is in effect a one off tool for my car. Unfortunately I have a habit of going a bit to far when making car parts or tools and rather sadly I get great enjoyment out of it. I also have the philosophy of if I need a tool once I will need it again so lets go and buy it or make it rather than borrow which is something I dislike doing Adrian

Hi Pual Yes body is fixed to the chassis using solid stainless steel mounts , a 6mm spacer then large diameter o/d penny washers to adjust the gap The ram is 5 ton but the pump is only 4 ton. I buuilt it like this so I could adjust each side individually as I believe a ratchet around the body would pull both sides when only one might need adjusting. I over cranked it a bit on one side so I put the pusher ram and spread it back out a bit. The chassis and tub on my car are late 13/60 so it has the centre seatbelt bolts on the side of the tunnel attaching to the chassis. I have attached the rest of the photos of the jig showing how it is attached. The mount on the B post fixes to the lock plate, top seat belt mount and the B pillar extension to roof lower bolt To make this work on my convertible I will need to modify the B pillar mounts The fornt tower brace to the handbrake pivot might not be needed but as it was available I used it. Thanks Adrian

Maybe on its side it wont spread? I used the internationally recognised eyeometer spec for setting my tub spread. I used the doors to set the shape of the tub, if it is the same as the doors then it is ok, assuming your doors are in good nick. Far to much changes in these cars over years of decay to start using factory measurements as an exact science best used as a rough target. I also had to over crank then release as the body has some spring in it, this resulted in the tub cracking on a seam and some horrendous noises.

Hi John Havent thought much much about how to keep it in place. It is a body off rebuild using solid mounts so maybe that will help. The tub lay about for many years off the chassis which didnt help. Maybe it will spread again in another 40 years but I wont be round to see I wasnt that keen on using straps round the body as the physics didnt look good to me . All I needed was the pulling ram as I had the portapower already plus plenty of scrap steel Adrian

No point guessing as the only photos I have are of it in use, but I was impressed with when it was finished. Some of you may have seen these on another site I rarely frequent these days that has deleted them since an upgrade. Adrian

Spot on Pete. Large one is for the push/pull/twist switches on the Vitesse 6, a diferent size at each end. The smaller one also guessed by NonMember is for the ignition switch on the same car. Bugger paying over 20 quid for them Now I just need to put them somewhere I will remember I like that idea for a game John, I might have a few more homemade specials to post up. Adrian

Cold wet sunday, what better to do than make a couple of tools that I dont need but will make the jobs easier in the future. Longest part of the whole thing was finding the metal to make them out of. I had an old aluminium light 5/8" to 1 1/8" spigot lying round so I made the large one out of that with some roll pins. The smaller one was made from an 1" bar. I knurled both more for effect than practicality and painted them with Rustoluem Soft Iron. Rather pleased with myself. I also filled the borer holes in my dash with resin so thats all sealed up now.

Hello. What are the options for steering column joints for the small chassis Triumphs. I was given a brand new gold coloured one for my Vitesse but it just to tight to fit on the column. Is there another one from a different Triumph or other brand of car that can be used. Thanks' Adrian

So would this tie in with the unannounced power/torque increase when they went to Strombergs? I had best check my spare unused head as to what that is. Adrian

My VW Amarok makes the old fashioned indicator sound when they are being used and I thought wow its old school. Till I went into reverse with the indicators on and the parking sensor kicked in which cancelled the sound of the indicator which means the indicator sound is a computer generated noise. Clever buggers those Argentinians. Adrian

I am fitting a Lucas type Alternator to my Vitesse 6. But I dont have a top bracket for it. What is the bracket distance between the alternator and the thermostat housing bolt? I have seen the ones using a turnbuckle and I like that idea. Thanks Adrian

Plenty of Triumph Herald in the body design of this. Most likely as it was also a Michelotti design. Spot the window winder and interior door handle Adrian