Colin Lindsay

Same as the early Herald I'm working on at present, then. There is originally no washer between the upright and the steering arm, just metal to metal contact with the nyloc on the longer bolt that goes straight through, and the shorter one is screwed into the threaded steering arm. As long as you have sufficient threads left on the bolt a thin washer to take up the gap shouldn't do any harm. Like you, I'm always very reluctant to grind anything until I work out why it doesn't fit together as originally intended.

It was supposed to be an 'upper cylinder lubricant' when added to fuel, but the instructions also used to tell you to pour neat Redex into the carbs and 'watch all your troubles blow away in a huge cloud of white smoke'... I used to love doing that.

For dash lights ie oil, full beam etc go for the flat versions that point in one direction only. I can see my blue full beam warning lamp now! Obviously for gauges you need the ones that shine 360 degrees. I changed all of my GT6 green bulbs to LED white and they look very nice at night.

1609km in 24 hours.... so why show a BMW? I could do that in my Mondeo easily. Now, a Herald... THAT would be a challenge.

You will find that!! Most of the parts come from exactly the same source, too.

This one is almost funny if the guy hadn't marked an item three stars, which he hasn't bought and never used, and is only spamming reviews to get his post total up... so it's a bit unfair to the product.

I think that's the point of Lockdown, to help us use up old stocks and thereby regenerate the economy by buying more new stuff when it all gets back to normal. Wonder what the headlining is worth today?

It's not 8th, 9th, 10th or 12th in 1997 either. Nor any of the first three or four months of 1998. Wonder if the writer wrote for a variety of magazines and just used his own car for the articles?

Mmmmmm... Redex.

Herald 1200 has no fuses at all; 13/60 has one in the headlamp flash. That's all!

Well it's the correct GT6 alright... must have a trawl. It must feature in more than one issue as there's no mention of the Sunbeam Alpine in the 'featured cars' list.

Have you fitted the brake shield? It takes up the gap between the arm and the upright.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-STAG-Etc-PAIR-CARB-NEEDLE-O-RING-Stromberg-CD175-CD150-carburettor/292163654668?hash=item44064f940c:g:nrYAAOSwnHZYfNuF It's listed here as Triumph part number 512317, and I've also found it as 512311, but the Stromberg part number seems to be 019658. This is a USA site but handy for identifying the parts you need, then sourcing them locally: https://classiccarbs.com.au/Classic-Carburettors/Carburettor-Overhaul-Kits-and-Parts-listed-by-manufacturer-/CD-Stromberg-ZENITH-CD-Carburettor-Rebuild-Kits-Zenith-CD-Rebuild-Kits-Diaphragms-Needle-Seats-Parts-Jets-Shafts-Gaskets/Stromberg-CD-Parts-Stromberg-CD-Parts-Zenith-CD-Parts-CD-Stromberg-carburettor-parts-CD-Zenith-carburettor-parts-175CD-carburettor-parts-150CD-carburettor-parts-125CD-carburettor-parts-

Well, my LIDL / Parkside cordless multi-grinder died this week.... the collar on the shank seems to have worn and won't tighten any more. Three years I got out of it, although the font bearing has been screaming for the last two.

I use what I call dual-purpose fuses, or 17/35s - they run at 17amp but when the current reaches 35amp max they blow. By that time they're usually red hot. If anyone else needs some, I buy from this supplier for my GT6, pack of five: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-35A-17A-CONT-CAR-AUTO-AUTOMOTIVE-GLASS-CARTRIDGE-VINTAGE-MOTOR-FUSE-6-3x-31mm/291022081317?hash=item43c2448d25:g:vKEAAOSw~BxdFkO8 For blade fuses... I don't know the exact tolerances of modern fuses but would 17amp work, or would it be better with some slight room for error ie 20 amp?

Only the first few (2000 or so?) Vitesse had that badge so it's another early feature.

They'll both fit. You could say that the 45D was an improved and uprated version of the 25D. I've used both, in fact I've fitted three of the SimonBBC versions to various Triumphs and they're all excellent.

I have a drawer full of 35amp glass fuses; when I needed them for the GT6, suppliers were ignoring my request for 17amp continuous 35amp blow and just sending me 35amp. I'll use them eventually, just hopefully not as frequently as last Summer...

I hate to be the one to tell you this, but... YOU'VE BUILT THE CHASSIS UPSIDE DOWN!!

Only if you want to be able to slide the tub about... so, yes; at least the ones above the screen but you want it to move freely. I forgot you hadn't taken the entire tub off so undo all of the tub mounting bolts, right off, and don't forget the centre seatbelt mountings.

Set the rear tub on the chassis, align to the front tub / doors, and see how the gaps look with rubber mounting pads only, no shims or spacers. Jack and shim at the required mounting points until the gaps are as good as can be and only then, with the shimmed points resting only and untightened, inspect the other mounts to see if they're still showing a gap, in which case shim as necessary to close the gap but not to raise any further. Tighten to the bare minimum needed to secure the tub, not so much that you squash the mounting pads. It's the same way that I fit the bonnet; rest in place first, slide to gap, and only then line up the brackets, insert the bolts and tighten. That one may have been tightened without the required spacers in which case it will have been tightened right down regardless of any gap and won't have helped the body alignment.

You've probably got the diagram already; I've screenshotted one just in case. Can't find a good photo yet, tho.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/girling-integral-master-cylinder-extension-reservoir-r-p64475476/?istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=af3aa224-37fd-4eb2-996f-59d56e7e6040&istItemId=wptrtwwxx&istBid=t&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MPX_UK_SHP_G_None_Generic_DT&utm_term=4582833186816442&utm_content=Motorsport - Braking&gclid=0418f717671e1fe9b2b7970c969b1bf8&gclsrc=3p.ds

Lol bear in mind you have forum vultures waiting to pounce at every turn... so you will get away with absolutely nothing!

Ok. Try again. This time it seems to look more... proportioned... but as I've said, I'll not know until I fit the hub and disc and see where it sits in relation to those.