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Colin Lindsay

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Everything posted by Colin Lindsay

  1. There is, just not visible in the photo; I cleaned it out yesterday. I remember reading way back that the gearboxes suffered from cracks and so were replaced by the cast versions with the alloy bellhousing, and it was with the increased power of later 1200s that they were able to go fully cast and not adversely affect performance. This one might be going into a 39bhp 1962 Herald so should be fine for low speed low mileage ownership - curiosity value only! (Must cut a clear window in the centre tunnel so people can see it...) It looks to be exactly the same casing and bellhousing as fitted to Standards of the period - see the Standard 8 box below; only the top remote system and rear extension are different on the outside.
  2. Congratulations! It's a scroll! There's a metal plate - the cover plate assembly, part number 119223, held on with six bolts, and this incorporates the scroll seal. A little judicious sandblasting will clean that up again; I doubt if I'll find a replacement any time soon. The gasket - or as the WSM calls it, the joint washer, might be saveable. In behind we have the front bearing, so that's coming out, along with the rear bearings, for replacement. As you can see I've a lot of cleaning to do, but only in the bellhousing area, as the internals are excellent. It's a very interesting variation on what we're used to, especially since the release arm is bolted in, not just slotted in and pinned. As you say, Pete - was it all just cost, or a simpler design?
  3. It's got large cracks in it. Look at the ends of the spokes where they meet the centre hub - at least two are split. Couple of hundred pounds, maybe, but he's being very optimistic at that price.
  4. No, Johnny - it's a very interesting setup; there's no pivot pin, the bearing release carrier is bolted to the bellhousing on a hinged bracket and in behind that there's a metal plate, held in with four bolts - once I remove the bearing arm I'll undo those and see what's in behind - the bearing and seal will be in there, and I'll see what I'm working with once it's on the bench.
  5. And DON'T put the handle to the engine and the pointy bit to your head, or else you're in A&E with that other guy...
  6. For anyone living here in NI that remembers the last few decades, finding a speaker magnet on the underside of your car meant the UCBT had dropped off somewhere along the road... 😮
  7. Got them - Paddocks have them. Just check the rest of the system for damage as well. https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/spring-acceleator-bracket Incidentally part 20 in Chris' post above - what does it attach to? I've forgotten...
  8. Part number 131368. First thing I'd do is remove and clean it, just in case; but check the bracket that it passes through as these can sometimes wear into an oval shape and prevent free movement. They're used on a variety of models (pic is from a Spitfire 1500 so linkage is different), if I can locate any I'll update. I suspect the reason they're NLA (from Canleys) is because they're only a simple spring so available elsewhere. Just haven't found where exactly, yet!
  9. I had one of these years ago as a novelty item, but sold it and regretted it ever since however when one came up on the Net last week for a silly price I made an even sillier offer (£30) and ended up buying it. It's now arrived with me and is in surprisingly good condition, so much so that I'm even debating replacing the bearings and seals and using it in my 1200. I know the gear ratios are lower than later cars, especially second gear, but the top end is the same, and whilst it might tie me down to a coil-spring clutch - no great problem - I'm interested in hearing any views on why it wouldn't work, weaknesses compared to later boxes etc. It's only the novelty value I want it for, no other reason such as weight saving, as the intended box already has an alloy bellhousing. Any thoughts?
  10. Logically then that would then be the same with any debris caught by the filter, if it must go through the pump prior to the filter; whilst not a perfect system, at the very least it stops debris going round twice, and as with the sump plug, it can be cleaned or thrown away at every oil change.
  11. Haven't been able to find any Uk-based this morning; I remember straps that fitted round the filter to ring it with magnets. You can buy horrendously expensive versions called Filtermag or Aeromag, some of which claim they improve fuel economy too. Cheaper ones are by AliExpress or Powermag but all seem to be USA based these days. I also found an interesting magnetic pre-filter that sandwiches between the block and the filter but good luck finding a thread that will fit Triumphs.
  12. Shouldn't happen if the engine isn't running; the filter should retain the oil unless it's not anti-drain.
  13. You can always cut the filter open during the oil change. A large speaker magnet taped to the side of the oil filter can collect an amazing amount of particles.
  14. Am I correct in that the later casings were slightly longer than the early versions? I seem to remember having a longer casing which I was told came from a late GT6 and is slightly longer than the earlier models.
  15. You could bond them in place; I used Tigerseal for the Herald front valences, it saved having any kind of rivet head on the front and believe me once I clamped them in place for two or three days to allow it to fully set, they'll not move again.
  16. It should have the body number; both of mine have it as standard: The reason I never progressed my 1964 1200 Estate was that when found it had no commission plate on the bulkhead, but there was a body number. I've been advised that for a fee (somewhat higher than the Certificate price) I can have the car traced via the body number and this should - hopefully - supply all of the other relevant data too.
  17. The 1961 press Herald, 9961HP, that I wrote about recently, the owner wanted it to go to a museum so I put Chris in touch with him; last I heard they'd done a deal but I've no idea if it ever arrived or what the timescale is.
  18. I must check if they got the Herald press car I put them onto a while back?
  19. How did that perform? I have more of those than Spitty or GT6 diffs...
  20. No glue; just press them into the leaf and the next leaf holds them in place. It can be a bit of a juggle but in the finished spring where all is tightened they'll stay in place.
  21. I put them on after. I also wrap the spring in Denso plumbers tape, grease-impregnated tape which may help stiffen the spring a bit but certainly stops moisture getting in between the leaves.
  22. Yes it will fit straightaway but you'll notice distinct differences in performance.
  23. We go to the other extreme.... there's a great saying along the lines of: "sure it's only two wee bits of metal, you could make it yourself"... so rather than incur heavy postage costs, we just either make the thingie or source a local equivalent, which brings to mind another local saying: "Aye, sure that'll do."
  24. Although some of them are reversable by way of a small switch on the rear - definitely best to check first, though.
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