Colin Lindsay

Yours is the narrow version, Chris, with the two large supporting panels, one either side, and is probably the original type for that model. Heralds actually started off with the full-width radiator and centre filler cap; they then went to the narrow radiator for the rest of production and used the same radiator as the Spitfire range, but many current manufacturers will chop and change versions - there are a lot of full-width models available now as modern copies, some with quite noticeable differences from the original. I use full-width on both my 1200s, I had them recored to a modern core and they both still have the central filler cap which the originals had; yet I did a quick search for Spitfire versions this morning and the two that I found both have fillers to one side - probably for bonnet room but also for ease of maintenance, they didn't want the driver to have to lean in over a potentially hot engine and get burned, or dirty, when refilling, so the filler was put closer to one side to make refilling easier. As Tom says it's the thermostat that controls the actual flow and therefore the temperature; with a modern core I'd reckon the full-width versions are more than adequate with just the standard engine fan and if needs be can always be blanked off.

Worth a million words. Nick - I'm too lazy this evening to check my manuals; what size for the Herald studs? I might give them a go. Cam4545? Or are they same as Paddocks? http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/head-stud-nut-improved-3

Core plugs are just dug out with a screwdriver or the like; hammer it through them until they distort or puncture - there's nothing in behind. Clean around the aperture and especially in the water jacket behind the plug, and replace the same size (and style - dished or bucket types can't be interchanged.) Just drive the new one in with a socket of the same size, and maybe a bit of sealer around the plug too if you feel the need. I've fitted full-width radiators to all my Heralds, and with that fitted never felt the need for a fan. It wouldn't do any harm; not much of an impedence to airflow, and there if you need it, at the flick of a switch.

Lol that's cool! But: interesting to see they haven't pixellated the VRM; I wonder if their software didn't recognise it? BTW it's just a screenshot taken off my Mac; easiest and laziest option for me. It's interesting that they were on the bridge, and presumably the village, last September, but the shot of my house further up the hill still dates from 2012, a few years before we moved there, so I can't check for any Triumphs.

Just bleed it. It will have contaminated the brake fluid, but won't remain in the system, so just bleed plenty of good clean brake fluid through and it'll be none the worse. If you suspect there's some remaining, bleed again, for peace of mind. There'll be no permanent damage to anything.

i don't have a Spitfire at present but I'm assuming your seats are as far back as they will go? The further backwards they slide, the closer they get to the B post and hood frame until as you've found, they rub. Can you move them forwards any, at all, and still drive comfortably? The only other alternative would be to make some kind of barrier or shield to keep them apart - this was something I noticed on my TR7; the frame had a plastic well into which it dropped and so was kept away from the seats. Any other Mk3 owners found this problem?

Is that 4 per car or four per side?

ME!! I knew I had passed the Google Car last Autumn; September time or thereabouts, so just remembered it recently and thought I'd check. There's me, just over the canal bridge in Scarva heading countrywards, in my unwashed and neglected looking black Mondeo. I've since washed it - had to, I sold it in October... so the goal is now to get a Triumph on it somewhere. Anyone got their Triumph featured on Google Earth, parked up or driving?

I was in the flowerbed just now, does that count? Never had a servo except on a modern, but it's up to personal choice. They don't improve the brakes (apparently) but they do improve pedal feel (apparently) so it all comes down to whether or not you have thighs like a Russian weightlifter... or want them...

Simple solution, when you think of it!

I must get a look at some when all this isolation is over; there are so many variations that while they may be functional it's just not the look I want. Too many suppliers just use the same photograph regardless, and it's off-putting when you look at the length of the centre mounting and wonder how it would look in real life on your car. Rob has reminded me of my late Mk3 and yes I remember having to take a deep breath to reach the ignition key... but not a problem in either Herald or the GT6. (The Mk1's problem is the wiper switch which is practically in front of the passenger...)

Quickfitsbs made my GT6 belts as exact copies of the originals, they took the old ones and replicated them exactly, and I was very pleased with the quality. They use the aircraft-lift buckles in chrome, stainless or zinc plated. I'd try the Club versions for the Estate - I'm not worried about black, nor a lot of originality, but there is a certain type I want and I can't tell from the Club Shop website what their versions look like. I don't fancy inertia, I've got long arms so can reach the dash if needs be (no offence intended, Doug!! ) and for the convertible I liked the original silver grey of the statics that were fitted when I got it. It's just personal preference. I have a few NOS Herald versions but after so many years I'd be concerned about deterioration of the webbing, no matter that they look very nice. Does anyone have a photo of the club belt, particularly the buckles, that would give me an idea?

I can't find clarity anywhere, Casper, but always believed it was rear only, which was to level the runners given the slope of the floor and hold them up off the carpets. I'll keep looking and maybe find a definitive guide. (Probably once this thread is long closed and forgotten!)

Yes might just do that! I've found their belts to be excellent in the past and want something just a little bit more special than standard for the convertible; IIRC I sent them original belts way back and they copied them exactly, right down to the original silver-grey colour.

I need two sets of seatbelts, both static lap / diagonal front sets for my Heralds. The Estate needs the clip attachments which go through the sides of the tunnel to the chassis and the convertible needs the single top plate version. I'd ideally like a set in silver grey for the convertible and red for the Estate. I was on the Club website earlier but they have no photos - has anyone used the club belts and what are they like? I assume they're only available in black? I was also on the Quickfitsbs website but my enquiry e-mail was bounced back, and their press releases etc haven't been updated since 2014. Are they still in operation?

Agree about the left one but is that bent or just the angle it's sitting at? Can we get other photos?

Advertised on Gumtree, had a lot of interest, and it was a case of first to see will buy... and he did. A very nice gentleman arrived today, had a good look, saw nothing to frighten him, knocked £50 off the asking price and: sale agreed. I'll be both sad and glad to see it go; always sad to move a car on, but it frees up valuable room and more importantly cash that will go towards the Herald restorations. Now I'll have to switch to the Herald 1200 restoration thread again. What he didn't see was that, two hours before, the bonnet refused to open, and gave me a few heartstopping moments until it did. I had trapped the cable under the air intake plenum when I refitted it... so all freed up and working perfectly. He's getting a good car that deserves a good home.

Must have missed the first one. So: spacers to the rear only.

I originally believed it was two per seat, rear only, to level the runners, and I've been searching for clarity on that; the Workshop Manual and the Parts Manual don't list them at all. I managed to read on a forum that Dolomites had 4 per seat, and thought I'd found them on Rimmer's website as two per rear of the runners, per side, so four in total, but when I checked it's just a large washer WP48. Anyone know for certain? I managed to have these made earlier in the week for my own Heralds, but it's used up all of my Brownie points for years to come...

I've just done a quick trawl of the Net and found quite a few, but these two from two different suppliers seem even in the photograph to be quite poorly made - you can see the excess plastic round the edges, and rippling or other marks that point to cheap plastic. Better than nothing, I'd agree, but I'd love to see how they compare with an original.

In case you do decide to split them, and I must admit it makes getting at the piston bores much easier - remember, if you can, to take the pistons out first whilst the caliper is still in one piece, as they're more difficult to remove from the half without hydraulic or air pressure to assist - the small rubber seal that fits between the two halves to seal the internal fluid pipes can be seen below. I can't remember but I suspect these are 12s and 14s, but in the top pic it's at the very bottom, and in the lower pic, one up from the bottom. Canleys for one sell the seal part number CS1.

Is there a starting position for the door and quarterlight? I know I've adjusted mine before, trying to get the doors to fit (Herald estate) and now I'm starting from scratch to refit the body and bulkhead I don't want to be working with a badly adjusted door assembly. There's nothing in the manuals to state how the quarterlight should be originally fitted and as far as I'm concerned the frame just drops into the door, rests on the bracing strip, and goes as far forward as possible. Any thoughts?

Not good! Wonder who is making them?

First check the door hinges; are they in the optimum position? You may be able to pull the door forwards and up by the hinges but it all depends on the position of the quarterlight and if it's going to be hitting the screen pillar. You need to loosen the mountings on that side at least and try a spacer or two directly under the B post but be advised once you move one thing, it puts something else out elsewhere... Read the Service Training Notes; it gives tips on adjustments. https://app.box.com/s/t9jjtxvxoskfrlupjmyg4bk4x1k04d3k

Well spotted! I didn't know they were available again. All of mine are old and brittle by now. I'll get one (at least) of Paddock's to salt away; they might do as well as anything. I'm too tight to spend the £28 or so the seller is asking for that nice chromed bezel version...