Colin Lindsay

In which area? I have a couple of older ones in the spares pile so haven't seen hide nor hair of anything modern. I did notice that the one fitted to the GT6 didn't allow the indicator stalk to move fully, but it's been fitted since about 2001.

Thanks, will keep an eye out.

I used to have to buy spares when I went to the mainland for shows; postage was very expensive and local parts were hard to come by, so it was a case of buying anything bulky, heavy or rare... I literally used to fill the car boot with stuff and then hoard it at home, all 10p, 20p sort of prices. On the last day of Stafford vendors were practically giving the bits away rather than take them home. Regrettably when I got home I used to give a lot of it away to local members who needed bits, and still regret parting with some of the parts... alloy bellhousings for a tenner... mint Herald bootlids (£10 too)... 4.5J wheels... but I've still got a huge amount of spares salted away and recently looking for parts I found a mass of stuff that I'd forgotten, bought years ago for my Heralds then boxed and stored away. It's like Christmas!

The hole is flat at both sides, as is the jewel, but they break very easily and are hard to get hold of in good condition. What I'm trying to find is something that's easily seen when on in daylight, but doesn't look aftermarket. I'll find one eventually...

Cowl and switch both are readily available; it's just a case of adding extra cabling to reach the column. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Overdrive-Switch-Cowl-for-GT6-TR4-TR5-TR6-Herald-Spitfire-Vitesse-611974/192498656137?epid=1816844589&hash=item2cd1d06389:g:KgMAAOSwi8VZP~iL

It's a lot cheaper than the one I saw earlier... but I still like that one! I must go out and measure the mounting hole for the original, so I'll know what diameter fits.

Lots of cars used them, and some still do. I'm assuming it's a the Mk3 GT6, part number 159763? If anyone can supply a good photo or dimensions of the original then any good Motorfactors should have an equivalent; it's really only a spring with hooked ends, one long enough to reach around the chassis - as in the photo - and when I found the Mk1 accelerator very light I nipped into town and bought a heavier one straight off the shelf. Earlier GT6 had a shorter spring with a metal rod, bent in an 's' shape, to make up the length required, so it shouldn't be hard to duplicate the assembly.

Yeah, but I want something NICE...

I know, I thought I would put them on a quality car for once. Hope they appreciate it.

Nice! I'm exploring options for the Herald (when I get that far!) and whilst I was intending to use something similar to the original - this one has a nice chrome bezel same as the other switches but it's quite expensive (£25?) - I'm looking for cheaper alternatives. Where did you get that one?

Vinegar has worked on some of my brake brackets - I left two soaking all week and they've come up very well, but I gave up on the horns and cheated - I bought a pair of FIAMM horns from a Mercedes SLK on the Bay, £8. Just fitted both to the GT6 - it was a poor earth stopping the originals from working, so now all sorted... and they are LOUD! (Sorry, neighbours!)

It's low, which seems to me there's a leaking valve that's allowing it to drain back below the filter. It will take a little bit of time - seconds - to fill up so that fuel gets over the filter. Mine is full to the top with only one bubble at the very top, and stays that way even if the car is off road for weeks or months. How long does it take yours to drain back so far, after the engine has stopped?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-TRIUMPH-HERALD-VITESSE-black-stitch-LEATHER-HANDBRAKE-GAITER/351002132013 Can't find anything in uprated rubber or even silicone, but this is in black leather so might be an improvement. You can also have the stitching in a variety of colours, too.

I've had quite a few.... tentative... enquiries (won't be rude and call them timewasters) but this has given me a new impetus in getting the TR finished, so we've done sterling work in the last three days. The engine is now completely reinstalled, the only outstanding part is to connect the electronic ignition to the coil, and refill the coolant which is doing strange things - the header tank is full but the water is not going anywhere else, except for once when it started gurgling down into the radiator, but when refilled, it stayed full. It's only taken about 3 litres so that's nowhere near enough. I'll explore the reasons tomorrow. It's now had 4.5 litres of Comma Classic Oil and is ready for the new battery and a startup. The interior is now completely replaced, but there's still some errant wiring - the spade terminal hanging down under the steering wheel points to something not right, but I'll only be able to test when the battery is fitted. The cheap Chinese USB radio unit suits it well enough and I've put large Pioneer speakers in the doors. After all that it got a wash and polish and came up very well. I need to fit the rear wheel trims, bleed the brakes and clutch system and reinflate a soft tyre and... that's it. Done. Just over 18 months off and on but it's now good for many more miles yet. Except that we can't get an MOT....

Sorry for the delay Adrian, finally got word from them - the .dxf file is fine for 2D cutting; I didn't question any further as they're up to their eyes and I was collecting a collection of freebie parts that they'd made for my Herald, and didn't want to stretch relationships by hinting there may be more...

Those are 1/2 inch in height, Ian. The two in the photo are identical, it's just the angle that makes one look bigger than the other.

There should be spacers under the rear of the runners to hold the slides up off the carpet; if you're missing one it will drop that side by quite an amount.

Ok so now I'm completely confused... When you say a weedy spark is that on startup, or all the time the car is running? If I keep the current coil as is, and simply connect the red and black wires to the coil, will the car start and run with no damage to anything? Now: if I change to a 12v coil, and simply unplug and insulate the white / yellow ballast wire while connecting the red and black to the coil, what happens? (Where does the other end of it go, by the way?)

'Out' in mine this afternoon... out in the garage that is, sitting making vroom vroom noises. Does that count?

I've just checked a few online posts / videos elsewhere and is it as simple as red to positive on the coil, black to negative on coil? It was bought direct from Accuspark for the TR7 so I'm assuming - hoping - they know it's ballasted if that makes any difference at all but they say: The Accu Spark electronic ignition is a complete unit that completely replaces points and condenser (requires no other parts ) . There is no wiring it only requires only 2 simple connections. Red to positive on coil ,black to negative on coil . Once fitted the points can be refitted at any time. I was perhaps trying to be too clever and connect it to the existing wiring half way along the loom but that's where the confusion arose; however quotes like the one below from another TR forum are also causing confusion: "You also has to add a separate wire from the distributor and connect to wiring under the dash near steering column. I was able to do this so completely reversible if required. The extra wire is because our ballast resister is within the wiring not attached to the side of the engine " The above, I assume, is because the 6v system will result in a weaker spark. Others are saying to disconnect the yellow and white wire at both ends and run a 12v coil. White / slate is apparently the tacho drive. So what was simple to start has now caused a lot of headscratching.

I'm on a roll with the TR7 and am finishing off the engine bay, but the coil / ignition circuit is causing confusion. I removed the points and fitted electronic Accuspark ignition. The Accuspark has two wires, one red, one black. I've spent the last while trying to make sense of the wiring circuit but nothing that I have matches any of the manuals. My coil has two wires, white / brown(?) and white. It could be white and slate but it's from the coil earth. The other is white and yellow. Any of the wiring diagrams I've consulted, Haynes included, talk of 6v coils, ballast cables, cables, white and slate, white and yellow, and three or possibly four wires from the coil to a distributor pack. So: how do I tell if it's a ballasted system? (probably a ballast loom, I can't see any ceramic block) I think, but it was 18 months ago, that the original points emerged to a connector down by the bellhousing - just one wire, and I think this connector is the same black and white that originally came from the points - anyone know?

Sooperb! As a lover of large estates, that's a cracker.

'Er indoors being community minded - and the local School Principal - she's doing a lot of community thingies online with the locals and parents at present and in some of the discussions, they've started to realise that if you DON'T drive to work, or take the bus, or need lunches, or work clothes, and stay at home gardening or housekeeping, you can live on a lot less. This has led to the oft-mooted suggestion that with benefits, invalidity, topups and freebies a lot of them are actually better off not working. They qualify for a lot more benefits if not working, so therefore why work when you can actually get more money given straight to you for sitting at home? It's sad, but true... Sorry Ian, your shrinker thread has gone the way of all good things..

Congratulations, or commiserations, on working whilst everyone else is lying about and moaning. There's a school of thought at present that many of those off on furlough will realise how easy it is to lie about all day and get paid, and decide they're actually better off financially staying at home all day than going to work...

Dave, you've no idea how much! Believe it or not I was trying to put it through the same bracket that the accelerator cable attaches to, and pointing it UP... Much obliged! Actually I've just done mine back to front and put the choke cable through the loop by the brake balancer, so both have to come off again. It wouldn't be me if it went on first time.