Colin Lindsay

Vitesse bumpers too. Unusual colour scheme but looks solid. I still regret NOT doing that a few years ago, the car is still beautiful and a lot less bother than the one I did buy. But only if substantially wrong? Minor things can simply be easy replacements. Having said that, do be careful when a seller tells you something is an 'easy fix', it may be to them with years of experience or the right contacts, but can be a problem for new owners. In the end it all comes down to how much work you're prepared to do, or do you just want an immediate driver with everything sorted. Looks like a Gumtree sale?

Can anyone jog my memory as to how this connects? I think I've got the yellow accelerator cable fitted so that just leaves the other on the same bracket.The green choke cable is just a plain cable with no fancy ends to connect, as the accelerator cable has - see photo. I may have a part missing, if it doesn't just use a small clamp on the end. How does it attach to the engine bracket; is it just sloted through with no fixing? Can anyone get a good photo that shows the connection? It's holding me up... as usual...

I know others have done it; there are a number of posts on here concerning modern fuseboxes and it's something I'm considering for my 1200s. I know we have a lot of electrical gurus here and they'll no doubt advise the best setup for the Herald and which circuits to fuse, as I'm all ears!

Yes you can fit them in there but it's quite a flat section so you don't have much depth; I used pod speakers with a sloping rear edge that sat under the lip rather than setting any kind of speaker into the trim itself. Be careful how you mount them as I had huge Radiomobile triangular pod speakers there in my Mk3, but only stuck to the carpet with velcro; if you braked too hard they broke away and came bouncing to the rear seat..

I think Fairey hubs are the most common and the ones I had on my Series 3 back in the 1990s. The theory was that as you didn't require 4 wheel drive all of the time then switching to 2 wheel drive saved fuel and wear on the front axles and components. Like any part they're great when they work and probably expensive when they don't, although technology of that era is easily sorted with a few spanners. The question is: if you have them how much will you use them, and if you don't have them, how much will you really miss them? It comes down to driving style and intended use - do you drive much off-road, or long distances? If you use the vehicle a lot then you'll have increased wear on tyres etc so they might be useful; but it's like overdrive on Triumphs, many have it, others don't and never seem to miss it. (Fairey overdrive.. had that on the Series 3 too....)

Long awaited update: the car has been sitting for the last six months doing nothing but gathering dust... so I thought lockdown might be a good time to advertise it for sale if anyone wanted a good project to finish. I need the room to get one of the others restarted, and to be honest have just lost interest in it. It was meant to be a temporary runaround, not a complete restoration, and the initial reason for the purchase - needing something on the road until the GT6 came back - has long gone. I've had a collection of complete idiots make contact. "Why does it not have a Service history?" "You're advertising it as tax and MOT exempt from June, but this is only May so it's not exempt." "They're not a great car." "I don't want to buy yours but I need parts for mine." There's also one overseas buyer who is currently trying to arrange transport... I'm waiting for the scam to start... why are things never easy? However as the engine work now comes to a close I've forgotten where things go! Can you help jog the memory? I've completely forgotten how the accelerator (yellow) and choke cables (green) attach - can anyone show me the correct places for each? Secondly: I've replaced the points with Accuspark; they have two cables, red and black. I've forgotten where the original points attach to on the loom - is it this black connector, behind the green plastic drain, just above the gearbox? In which case does the black cable go to the earth terminal of the coil? Lost the instructions...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Starter-Motor-JS534-AES6193-0986016260-0986016261-110979-CST40189AS/323595345928?hash=item4b57c92008:g:2RYAAOSw2~NcEQR1 Seems possible that the same starter was used on the Vauxhall Frontera and Brava, and the Opel Campo(?) as well as the Isuzu. If I can get a good comprehensive list of applications from those you've posted, next visit to the scrappie will be interesting...

We all have at present!! I've never spent so many hours in the garage as in these last two months, but it's hopefully paying off. That's a great bit of modification by Ian; the finished work looks really professional.

Not available new, nor remade either as far as I can find. As always I'd recommend Chic Doig for second-hand units; I wonder if he could be persuaded to have some remade?

I wondered why it was this colour nowadays.

I came home with an entire box a few years ago, all different makes and models, but none fitted as well as I would have liked. They were all terminally rusty so no use to my friend, and once ruled out they went into a large skip for metal recycling. If I can identify the model then it's just a case of rummaging through large piles to find a match. I have a list of parts I want to find - Micra heater blowers for example - but he's closed due to lockdown and I can't get near the stuff. It would be a perfect time to rummage - no-one else there!

The photos have not attached - can you try again? Are you sure the primer has fully dried? I know there can be issues if the primer is not completely cured, and the top coat reactivates it with the thinners when applied. It's normally too thick a coat, rather than too thin, that causes problems. Microblistering is usually moisture under the paint, but fizzing seems like some kind of chemical reaction - are your primer and top coat incompatible?

Two things to check - is the gearbox central to the chassis? Then check how the body sits in relation to the chassis rails. It may be that there's a slight difference in either side of the shell floorpans, so that there's actually more metal on one side that makes it look as though the gearbox is skew-whiff. It may just be the angle of the photo but it looks as though there's more metal on the driver's side than the passenger side, so the box may be central - as is the body - but the two sides are not symmetrical.

Did you get the model number, Adrian? I've had one of the uprated starters (Club supplied?) fitted to my GT6 for many years but with easy access to a mate's breaker's yard it would be interesting to see if it was fitted to any other model. The more, the merrier, and certainly cheaper. The only problem I had was that it had to be fitted upside down, so that the drain hole was now on top, and after washing the car water got in and after a few years, rusted the insides. I had to strip it down, clean and grease everything, then replace with the drain hole blocked using the plastic end cap off a Biro pen.

I'd try just that but with the fuel filter removed. It may be that the pipes have collapsed; it's happened to me before. Try the system with no filter and see if it improves things. (It's hardly been fitted back to front... you can blow into the pipe and make bubbles in the tank, but the fuel won't flow in the opposite direction?)

I haven't read TW in years; I just felt there was not enough in it for my particular interests to justify shelling out. I keep a few out of date copies of Practical Classics in the car; handy for enforced waits at airports etc... plus you can't swat flies with a Kindle.

I have the fuel pipe to bend next; on the estate it turns at a right angle over the outrigger but then I think it drops down parallel with the lower lip on the crossmember; there's a clip that secures it to the metal edge. I'll have to bend that one on the car and 1/4 inch kunifer is not very forgiving! I had intended to remove the rear tub beforehand but lockdown is causing problems with heavy bits like that in my one-man-band.

I'll agree with that; on some I bought a good few years back the studs were badly threaded, and some even fell out whilst I was tightening them up. When you get a set, SP, if they're not great-looking, consider replacing them with a length of steel bolt both screwed and glued in place.

Yes, I mentioned that they were roughly the same but you can see the heavier build of the TR7 version; it's broader, but still fits into the Herald b-post catch. Had to run out and check...

Check on down this section, there are at least two threads on the same, or very close, topic, with a few suggestions and alternatives - some of them quite interesting!

True to form we've just had the coldest recorded temperature for May since 1982: - 6.1 degrees. Bl**dy frost has killed a lot of the new growth on plants. It's worse than the Sahara, sweltering during the day and freezing at night.

Does it spray the oil easily enough, given that it's thicker than water based weedkiller would be? Never thought of using one of those. I have one of these that came with a Herald many moons ago, great for siphoning out old oil when you put a flexible tube on the end.

Hard to find when you want one; roughly the same type of fitting is also used on the TR7 with a slightly different reinforcing plate inside the door. Keep an eye out on eBay and the like. The 'hook' is the important part, you can always make a reinforcing plate. The photo is the TR7 on the left, and the Herald on the right with the two reinforcing plates above.

Those are MODERN thingies. You need the actual period piece: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HALFORDS-VINTAGE-BRASS-OIL-GREASE-GUN-PLUS-THREE-NOZZLES/233584081343?hash=item3662b239bf:g:zU8AAOSwVEteI2sw