Colin Lindsay

Well, I've heard of stranger...

There's a thought!

PRB2-12 also refers to 'invisible pot feet' or pot risers for flowerpots... have a look! Sadly I went out to check my hoard of spare ones and found that none of them are Trico; in fact two aren't for Heralds at all.... I have pair of Lucas WB5s which I think are, see photo, but one of the others is a Unipart GWB201 and has dozens of applications, but none Triumph. There's also a very short stubby wiper arm that I can't identify at all; no part number but it's 7" Lucas and maybe old Mini or Minor? It's also got the strangest little adaptor, which I've just found out is to fit splined arms to a straight shaft... never saw one in my life before.

Is it the correct gauge for your model? There are variations and even though the face looks similar, the readings can be way off... as you've found.

Not my problem - I sold it! (But it will still be claimed on the policy that I took out, even years from now, as it covers that property.) In my current house, I own the lane that leads to the farm buildings behind, so I can be the one to object some day. Not that I would, it seems very petty.

It's a very moral situation, and you're right Pete in that if you raise the issue they're now aware of it. I had to take out Insurance in 2015 concerning a right-of-way past my last house that had been in use for 40+ years, just in case the person who owned the other half of the shared laneway objected to its' use by others. The problem was that if I raised the issue with the owner - and I knew that he wouldn't have any objections at all - then he would be aware of it and Insurance would not cover me for the cost of any subsequent legal wrangles concerning access. I could have sorted it in two minutes neighbour to neighbour but the solicitor would not let me. So: I took out £300 of Insurance cover to protect me from a dispute over access which is never going to happen, in order to sell the house, as no-one would buy without a policy in place. If the issue with non-locking locks is brought to the attention of the Insurance company, they'll be aware and may refuse to pay out in the event of theft unless the locks are repaired and proof obtained. If you say nothing, then if the car is stolen, do you effectively tell lies and say the car was locked, or admit to the fault and risk no remuneration? Yes, you can cut the hood and be inside in seconds, but the locks are fitted from new and so legally must work for the vehicle to be secure. You can also smash the glass on a modern and get inside in much the same way despite central locking and deadlocks etc. but they still insist on it being locked. Personally I'd get the locks fixed or fit alternatives, but then I'm the sort of person who hates anything that doesn't work, it niggles at me until I do something about it. You used to be able to buy supplementary door locks or deadlocks that fitted below the original door handles like a second circular keyhole, but I can't find any of them on-line this morning as an illustration.

Indeed, Tony, and that's the type of thing I was looking for but couldn't find a link to one for under £25! Sometimes just the action of striking the screws, without even the turning function, is sufficient to break the grip of years, but as Pete says it's a very useful thing to have in the toolbox.

UJs MIGHT be easier than door locks, so don't write yourself off yet. Do you have an impact screwdriver? It may shift the screws, and might end up costing you no more than replacement screws would - they're cheap enough to buy, mine was less than a tenner and a handy tool for a car where many parts have never been disturbed.

Tentacles, Pete - tentacles. This one is known as a prosthentacle and if you know anyone with one, they'll fix your doors in a jiffy. On the other hand if you know anyone who builds ships in bottles, they'll do it too.

Some owners in recent times have advocated splitting the pipes with a union, and having one pipe to each cylinder, plus a bleed nipple at each. For simplicity's sake I'm going to remake the original setup then see how easily it bleeds. If I get to the stage of requiring brakes I'll be far on from where it is now!

Door CATCHES or door LOCKS? The door has to close securely and stay closed when pressure is applied, but as for the actual locking ie with the key (to keep others out), that wouldn't be anything for the MOT? As for Insurance... does a car kept in a home garage for example have to be locked too? On the street yes, but the driveway? No doubt they'll find some way of wriggling out of the payout, if it ever gets stolen...

Thanks Tony - yes the Herald ones are more conical, and of course I have dozens of those. I'm going to try to source identical male unions to those removed, but it will take up to a week if ordered online. That short one is M8 but is all my local factors have in either male or female. Brake pipe manufacture is a dying art, it seems. It's a strange setup - there is one flexible hose to the short pipe in my last photo, which goes to a wheel cylinder, but then in place of a bleed nipple there is a long pipe that runs over the diff to the other wheel cylinder which has the only bleed nipple. Basically you bleed the entire rear axle through one bleed nipple.

Double and treble check, Tony - the last thing I need is stripped threads when all else is singing along. Does this pic tell you anything? Brake union to flexible hose; the other ends of the pipe are to the cylinders only with male connectors so this is the only female at the rear.

It's great when you do that. Well done.

If it's leaking and not starting on choke or off then I'd guess it's still flooding and the choke is only making it worse. Is it still leaking from the same place as before? Can you try a replacement carb as a tester?

That was Titanic. Icy dead people.

Thanks Pete; I'll experiment on new cylinders off the car before committing. I'm more or less sure they're metric M10 but as usual wanted a second opinion before starting and finding out the hard way, like I usually do.

Yep, that's the part number, but it takes you straight to the same suppliers and the same prices. We'll keep looking.

Now, that IS lucky. When I come back in, what I get is:" Where's my tea?"

I've been looking, Bob - nothing as yet, but I'll post once something turns up for sale.

The mounting bolts for the diff front mount have a shoulder, so cannot be tightened further than the end of the threads. New rubber bushes are quite big but will compress once the nut has been torqued down to the correct value; they can't be compressed any further. You might be tempted to leave them looser than they should but this will only accelerate wear and allow flex when moving. Don't be tempted to trim the polybushes, they're made to the correct size and will compress to some amount, but not as far as the rubber ones do. Torque a new nyloc up to the required tension - which I THINK(!) is 26-28 lb ft, but cannot find confirmation of that anywhere at present, can anyone confirm? - and that'll be as far as you need to compress them. They won't flex as much as the rubber ones so less compression will not mean more movement. It won't affect the prop angle, or certainly not any more than the car is designed for. I like the swing - need a push?

Yes but can you still kill flies? That's more than I can....!

I'm replacing brake pipes on the TR7 and while I'm using 3/16 kunifer the original pipes seem much thicker on the outside. The stuff I'm using is 0.028" and it's the same as I use on the Heralds. Two things: does anyone know the spec of the original brake pipes, and secondly, can anyone confirm that the brake pipe ends are M10 metric? The originals are badly worn but they're longer than any of my spares and I've confused myself by trying to buy them online. Can anyone confirm what exactly is needed? If I fit the long versions, as fitted when I got the car, there's a lot of thread left over. I do have short versions but am wondering what difference it will make if I fit those, if any?? Any thoughts?

If it was me, I'd use two. It's not really set in stone but just make sure the sills are firmly attached and not likely to either shift or drop off - for that reason I'd use two and that was how it was done at the factory. Replacement wings are supplied undrilled so the owner can drill them in the appropriate area to match the sill. If you can reach the other end of the screws inside the body use a spire nut as a belt and braces approach; older screw holes may have widened over the years and might not hold as tightly as they should, and will work their way out whilst driving.

A sense of time is a must... as in: "You've been five hours in that garage!! What do you do out there?"