Colin Lindsay

Ok so you're looking for the larger spring at the other side; the large one to the left? I just searched for Stromberg Carburettor Spring Set and there seem to be lots of suppliers, unless you're looking for a still-different spring that's not in the set?

Probably as good as many out there, fine for home use and might just last a while. I had to laugh at one of the reviews though:

Lucky man! Draining (and in your case saving and replacing coolant) should be a doddle.

I bought that book back in the early 1990s and even then I never saw one other than that in the photo. I've run a quick google search for 'remote oil filter conversion' and there are hundreds, it seems to be just a case of making up a kit using the available components of oil take-off, pipes and remote canister connector.

If your rad already has the little brass tap, fit one to the block as well; then just push a length of plastic pipe onto that and direct the coolant where you will.

The problem is that many of these engines were never designed to last fifty or sixty years, so squeezing a few more miles out of them by looking after them now is a big bonus. I was offered two very cheap luxury cars in the last month - none older than 2009 - by a friend in the trade but as one had 99000 miles and the other 140000 miles I avoided them like the plague; he was amazed as, in his opinion, both (Jaguars) will go on for years yet. I'm still of the 1960s / 70s mindset that a car with more than 80000 miles is done, because back in those days - they were. One classic quote I always remember about a car is a seller being asked: "does she use much oil?" to which he replied: "she would use plenty - if she could get it!"

Should never be misshapen - just grind or file straight and use a smaller spanner...

There were going to be three points but I see you've charged the battery...so two things: Your solenoid may be duff - turn the key and listen for a click as it engages; if not, try a substitute, or make sure your ignition key is still connected, no wires have been pulled off, and that it works as it should. Follow the wires from key to solenoid and make sure they're connected at both ends. If you were working in the footwell I suspect you've pulled a wire out of something, if your key is down by the steering column. You can also bypass the solenoid with a jumplead or the like straight from the battery to the starter terminal - make sure the car is out of gear - and if the starter spins then that's the fault. If the started doesn't turn, or is weak, then it's an earth problem or the starter itself on the way out.

Nah that's a modified early Spitfire. You can tell by the shape of the rear wing and the stack of chrome 1500 bumpers, one on top of the other, at the rear end. (although that's a TR7 spoiler at the front and an Acclaim door) It also appears to have sagged in the middle, hence the wheel half-way along to keep it off the ground.

Is the radiator half full, or half empty?

Never heard of optimism?

...and the Devil - to some - also has one of ours....

I was thinking that myself... fine on a new system which will be untouched for a few years, but if it's leaking, or needs emptying for engine work, it's a bit of expense.

After all that I'd spend £6 or so on a replacement bearing. It's been through a lot on that axle recently and the last thing you want is for it to fail once fitted.

Me too; don't worry about damage as you'll probably replace with new if they're really badly rounded off.

Rain, rain and more rain this week - interspersed with thunder and lightning last night - but good weather coming in for next week. I was in Monaghan last week for an equestrian event at a little place called Glaslough.

It will probably start to eat its' way through petrol tanks as well...

Been caught that way more than once... "I'm joining the club but this is an urgent problem" or: "Would you have a wheel / starter / dynamo for a Herald? Can I pay you for it at my first club meeting? / next week's show?" Never seen again, nor at any show I attended... but still it's another Triumph on the road I suppose.

There are so many little cracks and gaps where heat can get it I doubt if you'd ever seal them all. This is no hardship to me, as warm summer days are a rarity and most of the year is spent under grey skies where heat is very welcome. It was very thoughtful of Triumph to put the GT6 heater controls on the doors...

Standard practice in the GT6, which is hot enough inside already; any time I'm worried about sitting static in traffic - which is usually queueing to get into a show - I'll flick the heater blower on. All of the windows are usually open anyway. I don't think I really need to, as the temperature never gets to the worrying stage but I'm bored, and sitting in a queue, and there are all these switches to play with....

Didn't I read somewhere recently (on here, maybe?) that it's only the 95 RON that uses ethanol, and the higher octanes don't?

Be careful at the other end - you're lifting the front of the engine whilst the rear and bellhousing is also raising up, denting and crushing the edges of the bulkhead. Keep an eye on that end too!

Have you removed the earth lead at the front of the block? Been there, done that....

I rest my case, Your Worship... in between the sounds of someone flogging a dead horse and digging a large hole.

Plenty of penetrating oil, maybe a bit of heat... oh and a hub puller. Or maybe you've tried those already? (runs away and hides...)