Colin Lindsay

Ah, got ya now. Personally I'd use Chassis Black solely as a top coat on the chassis and suspension components as I'm not 100% sure of the chemical makeup ie if it's intended to ever be overcoated; I'd keep it away from the tub if you're painting the underside body colour. As Rob says there may be no problems at all so maybe I'm just being me, as usual overcautious; it's a durable, hard paint but some of these don't take well to being overpainted. Just good primer (etch first if you want to) then good anti-rust primer, stonechip on the seams and leading edges then a good top coat. I'll be doing this in the New Year but will paint the chassis in the same way so as to have it the same colour as the body.

I also heard the argument for Remain: "we want to be able to go on Stag parties to Prague / I want my son to be able to backpack round Europe / we don't want all the bother of having to get a visa for our summer holiday" etc etc. I'm glad they got THEIR priorities right, and listed the important things...

Ok. The electrics. The stop light switch pictured earlier had an errant blue and white wire which linked it to the flasher unit. The other twin wire went to a scotchlock into a white ignition system cable. So: both had to be linked into a powered circuit by a PO. Why? What is causing me most grief is that the flasher (19) is meant to have two cables - light green / brown and light green / slate. The first is there, the second, non-existent. Anywhere. It is however paired with a light green and white wire; the two are taped together a short distance away; this looks too neat to be an owner add-on. According to the wiring diagram light green and white is from the indicator switch so this may possibly be connected directly to the flasher, but not going by the diagram. The brake light switch (58) is meant to have two wires - green, and green / purple. The second is there, but not the first - however, I've located an unconnected green spade connector a short distance away, but this has two green wires, not one. I can't find any double-wired green connector on the wiring diagram. I'll have to wait until the battery is refitted again before I can test them, and I suspect I'm going to need a lot of fuses.

Karl, "she who may travel in it with me one day" (SWMTIIWMOD?) had a SAAB convertible which had the best heater I've ever seen / felt. The other extreme is my 1200 convertible which I tried to drive home from work on December 23rd at 3am a few years back - with the top down. I gave up after about three miles. So: my reckoning it that the heater is the heart of any convertible, and so I want this one turning out too much heat, which I can then adjust down, as opposed to too little, which I can't do anything about, other than complain. Loudly. "Is that tappet rattle? No it's my teeth chattering..." Anyway - dashboard is now back in, after THREE attempts. First, you can't fit the face vent pipes after it's been fitted, so out again. Second, you can't fit the screen vent pipes after it's been fitted, so out again. Thirdly, the face vent pipes are not the same length, so the wrong one fitted to the wrong side will push the vents out of the dashboard - so, out again. Even with it out, you need about ten arms to hold things in place whilst refitting. NOW I'm ready to start on the electrics, which require a post of their own.... AND I'VE JUST REMEMBERED... that the top screw holding the heater in place on the bulkhead was never tightened fully.The dashboard is NOT coming out again.

How did the chassis black get on the tub - previous owner or just over-enthusiastic application? If it's only overspray you can rub it off or sand back. I'd just coat the underside of the tub in a good primer, maybe stonechip on leading edges, then body colour. I'd assume the chassis black is intended as a top coat in which case rub down / key with sandpaper, cover with a good primer and paint over; I don't think you'd need any kind of barrier coat between the paints.

Liz Hurley was quoted just this week as "It doesn't matter what size you are, as long as you keep firm." I believe she was talking about weight and fitness.

Let's all vote for the Hokey Cokey party. They know what it's all about. (I have a sneaky feeling someone added that EU flag to that t-shirt and it was actually originally about something else altogether.)

Theresa May, Emmanuel Kant and Walt Disney. Don't even try to find a comparison with Brexit, otherwise we'll have half wanting the bracket removed, half wanting it to stay on, and a few trying to avoid a hard seal between the tank and the boot floor so that water can pass freely through in both directions, whilst whinging that anything else is a breach of the Good Workshop Manual agreement.

So it wasn't to support the tank, but was to stop the boot floor moving about? That makes more sense...

In a word, yes! It's just rusted solid, many end up like that so persevere with plenty of penetrating oil and it'll work out.

The Automobile Association, they're the ones. Nothing to do with those other guys. As opposed to the Real Alcohol Connoisseurs, for whom I used to work back in the early 1980s.

Emergency kit, Tony - open in the event of a breakdown. Just hope it's the AA that get to you first. Of course for a wheel centre you could always use those 'fidget spinner' thingies that the kids play with, but just don't park near a school or they'll be gone in a flash.

I bought one new and boxed from Mick Dolphin at the Stafford show many years ago, which I fitted to my 1200 estate - he might be worth a try again. I've no idea if the lens was ever used in any other Triumph but it's quite a distinctive lens, curved and with a clear magnifying section at the bottom. The spare baseplate I have is at the bottom. Guess what? Canleys might have one, it's listed on their website. https://www.canleyclassics.com/stanpart-originals/herald-estate-rear-interior-roof-lamp-lens/ Rimmers are also listing them as new.

I have a base unit, but no lens / plastic cover, if that's any use.

T'was but a thought, 56 makes more sense, what I was getting at was not to rev the guts out of it at high motorway speeds until all gremlins have been ironed out, but it's a compromise between steady, sensible driving in one direction on a motorway (inside lane so as not to hold anyone else back!) as opposed to twisty, winding B-roads which will find every defect in steering and suspension before you ever get the car home. Like everyone else here I'm waiting to hear the verdict and how it performs under Chris' new ownership.

Motorways are simple driving, provided you stay in the inside lane and keep to about 50. It's not as hectic as fighting a strange car through smaller roads. Make sure your tyres are all at good pressure before hitting any kind of speed; I've driven a newly purchased Triumph up the M6 for two or three hours then stopped at services and found one of the tyres at 12psi. Not great for corners!

That's a centre cap, as opposed to a spinner. Just cut the end off the can and use that (the end without the ring pull unless you like that look) I presumed the OP wanted proper spinners?

Inside definitely, between the tank and the floor, but no idea why.

I'd forgotten about that bit! It may be as Pete says a support for the tank to prevent the sponge being squashed so flat that it won't let water out, but then there are other drain grommets around the boot floor so I'd always assumed the sponge was to keep water out; a sort of more appropriate / efficient seal than just a rubber ring. It doesn't appear in the early parts catalogue at all - was it to do with supporting the extra weight of the increased-capacity tank of the later cars? I've not got to the tank-refitting stage of my convertible, and the estates don't have one, but I'll have to try to identify this bit in my spares pile before deciding whether or not to refit it at all...

+1 to that.

And the eyes. There were a lot of wide almost idiotic grins, under blank eyes, that very quickly returned to a set look after the attempted smile. They had seen too much already. I think if we fought the Germans, then we fought the Germans. We can't water it down, how else do we explain how - not why - all those men died? There was a lengthy section showing the Germans as pretty much the same as the allies, young men in uniform and quite friendly when not killing each other, but at the end of the day it was a war, it happened as it happened, and the politicians of today have to remember that someone must have started it, no matter how uncomfortable that feels. Our own local Cenotaph service was disrupted by a car whose alarm went off just coincidentally during the two-minutes silence, no doubt triggered remotely by a key fob from closeby, by those who even these days prefer not to 'live and let live'.

Just take the nipple out completely, the oil will still fill the trunnion if the syringe nozzle is pushed into the threads sufficiently to stop oil coming back out.

Throw a bottle of Redex fuel treatment into it before that journey; it'll give things a good clean out.

Carpet above, underseal below! That's looking good. I'll be starting another one in the New Year and have all that to do, especially the rear tub.

You just beat me to it... I was wondering how it would perform with the filler taken off. Clean your filter, or the filter mechanism if there's a flame trap in behind, and see how that improves things; I'd also try a different filter as the one you have may require too much pressure to work.