Colin Lindsay

I read that completely wrong and thought it said "this is to use in local night clubs or whatever"... thought it could maybe check if your drink's been spiked. Interesting bit of kit though.

Buy new stuff, old rubber has usually gone hard and will never fit the contour of the overrider even assuming you can work out which one it originally came off. A thin smear of black rubber sealant, eased into the split of the rubber, will hold it in place for a year or two after fitting.

Reminds me of the one where I asked the doctor to sign a sheet for me, and he pulled out a thermometer and tried to write with that. "You know that's a thermometer?" I asked him. "Dammit!" he said. "Some bums got my pen."

Yes, Wayne and his team are great to deal with, both through eBay and through their site - I've managed to source the little rubber bobbin I need from them, so that's another step forward. Sometimes when I'm too lazy to order through their online shop I just buy off them on eBay and pay by Paypal.

Don't be a miser, you can buy 12 for £12.99... which works out even cheaper. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-Zenith-Stromberg-CD150-Carburettor-Diaphragms-LC49-free-P-P/233042558109?_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170221122447%26meid%3D055f748eb7b94417a14dbe1ef9a3b196%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D233042559602%26itm%3D233042558109&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982

Still looking but losing hope! I can't believe I've thrown them out, but they don't seem to be anywhere else, nor can I find any of the other bits that were in that pile, which I fell over for months before deciding to do something about it.....

Thanks guys! Pete: I think, as Non-member says, it supports the air filter box with an additional clamp for the fuel line. A very small gearbox mount might do the trick.... but as you say a solid mounting won't really kill it given the sort of mileage it will probably do nowadays. I could rig something up on the lathe, I have a few solid plugs of modern material that would dampen vibrations but last longer than rubber; it's only a question of finding an adhesive that will hold the bolts in place and not shear at the first startup. I think, Clive, I'll hit the local motorfactor, they're used to me rummaging through old boxes for bits that should have been thrown out years ago, but Tony's link looks close, if I had some way of gauging the size. Going by that link I found another suggestion, which looks quite close too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Febi-Rocket-Cover-Mounting-Buffer-Engine-12173-GENUINE-5-YEAR-WARRANTY/153159510801?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Df3167fbb9206480da661a088693637fa%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D173504446517%26itm%3D153159510801&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

That's the box I have in mine, for the benefit of the J-type overdrive, and it's still going great after twenty years in that car. It's a straight swap at the engine end, with the usual alterations at the overdrive end.

Thanks Dave! I think it's all going back as it should... anyway I've replaced the carbs and all the fuel lines are now R9 so should be ethanol resistant, however I've one or two small queries. The first and most important one concerns the fuel pipes I've connected to the carbs; there are two pipes side by side on each and I'm thinking the fuel lines go to the upper as shown and the overflow (green plastic pipes) go to the lower. I've a 50/50 chance of being right... Between the carbs there was the remains of a small rubber bush, which I suspect is used to clamp the fuel line as a kind of steady. Mine is in two bits; one attached to the air filter housing and the other to this small bracket. I can't find one listed anywhere; I presume they're NLA? Any good modern replacement? The only bits I've had left over so far from the reassembly are the old hoses and clips, and plenty of duff locking washers, so I must be doing something right. Look out Mr Reassembler James May, you've got a rival.

I suppose I could always eat the batter off, so the night out wouldn't be entirely wasted....

I've never read it but if you want the cheapest copy around, be quick! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Performance-Tuning-in-Theory-and-Practice-Four-S-by-Bell-A-Graham-Hardback/302047736087?epid=87588805&hash=item465372b117:g:gQcAAOSwZNVbYo0k

Replacing the seal is a good idea with the diff out, for peace of mind, but bear in mind this is the lowest part of the diff casing, so any oil that leaks invariably finds its' way there and drips off, so you think it's leaking but in reality, it isn't... Replacing the half-shaft seals and bearings is quite easy too; just four allen-headed bolts on each side then pull out.

The diff flange will come off with pullers; if you don't have those get a length of wood, chamfer it and lightly hammer it down between the flange and the diff body, if it doesn't move at once rotate it and try various sides. Anything softish that won't damage either the diff or the pulley can be used to force the pulley out and off the axle.

Take the grease nipples out, the oil will pump in anyway, replace once the trunnion is full.

I'm broke these days, can't even afford the air for an air filter.

Morning all! I'm trying to take advantage of Rimmers' Christmas Sale but have backed away twice now over confusion with the VAT and sale prices. The catalogue list three prices: UK including VAT, Rest of world Excluding VAT, and UK Sale price including VAT. I'm trying to buy two items which are listed as follows: 1.Normal price (inc UK VAT): £252.00, ROW sale price (excluding UK VAT): £172.50, UK Sale price (including UK VAT) £207.00 2. Normal price (inc UK VAT): £29.10, ROW sale price (excluding UK VAT): £19.75, UK Sale price (including UK VAT) £23.70. SO: if I add the two sale prices it should come to £230.70 which is inclusive of UK VAT, otherwise it would be £192.25 with the VAT to be added on. However if I go to the 'cart' it lists as follows: Subtotal £234.25, shipping charge £7.95, VAT £48.44 a total of £290.64. Full price would be £289.05 so it appears that by buying 'sale' items I'm paying more than the normal price. This is with the current offer code applied. Am I missing something here? Am I being charged twice for VAT?

...and believe it or not, many of those involved in throwing them see themselves as 'green'.... (BTW Paul, the photo is actually from Zimbabwe.... that way, there's little or no likelihood of it being a club member....) France is quite funny in that they all wear the yellow jackets; my first thought was: if these are all the 'security' where are the actual rioters?

Need a bigger lens... or a macro function, this weather. Anyway: I got bored hanging about upside down in the interior so went back to the engine bay for a marathon session. Nothing on TV on Monday night! All hoses now replaced and shiny new hose clips; distributor refitted with Accuspark electronic ignition, inlet manifold refitted, new gasket and O-ring sealed in place with Loctite MR5922 sealant, bypass tube replaced with new O-rings (I remembered it!), and the thermostat housing helicoiled and refitted. Next step: carbs.Then I'll go back to the electrics after a short break, feeling refreshed and ready to go. I hope.

Here in Northern Ireland we've been disposing of the stuff for years. No problem!

It will unscrew eventually, just be careful not to shear it but as the guys say it's well worth removing and cleaning the area in behind.

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/be100.htm Possibly originally one of the Austin / MG derivatives? The gearbox may well be a later add-on and unconnected to the original car, unless it's been a block from a similar brand that has been reconditioned for a Triumph.

Me too; extend fully, grease, then slide right through and do the same for the other side. Plenty of grease too, not enough to explode the gaiters but enough to get into the important bits inside the rack.

Have you ever noticed how similar some brands of spray adhesive are to engine degreaser? I have. Want to know how I noticed?

Used to use that, but it made me sad... Fairy Liquid used to be the stuff for yellow rubber but full of salt so eats paintwork. Turtlewax have a good gel for it: 'Black in a Flash', I've done a search online and it seems to have changed packaging recently but works well.

Back to the restoration thread again? It's rare for a thermostat to be absolutely air / water tight; it's not like an engine valve. Once it opens there's a greater flow but even when closed a trickle escapes through.