Colin Lindsay

You can always move the accelerator pedal outwards, just redrill the floor mounting. Or fit a thinner pedal.

HOW MUCH??????? 😮

The exposed push-rod tubes are pointing to an earlier engine, maybe an early Spitfire head? I seem to remember that part number being a Spitfire number rather than Herald; but have no Spitfire parts manuals to confirm. In any case it should be fine for exchange against a Herald variety of that era.

I'd add an additional one by the gearbox; plenty of brackets there to hang one off and it helps stop the long centre pipe swaying about.

You're more likely to be hit by the car behind as you drive past whilst rubbernecking at the car on the hard shoulder...

Early 948 Herald saloon camshaft was part number 204490, coupe was 202931 - the coupe was twin-carb. Rimmer's site claims this is the same part number for the 1200 coupe as I have listed for the 948 coupe - this points to a straight swap, but they also list the Spitfire version 211433 for the Herald 1200. 1200 was 211256 while early Spitfire 1147 was 211433 - the Spitfire MK3 is allegedly the one to go for if it'll fit the 948 block, which is something I've never checked before, as opposed to the early shafts. All but the late 13/60 were small journal camshafts. Check Moss Europe as they seem to have performance camshafts listed. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/camshaft-fast-road-small-journal-new-212164-th5.html Here's a link with a lot of interesting spec: http://www.auskellian.com/paul/links_files/spitfire_cam_specs.htm Herald data is below, if I've copied it correctly from a word document: 948: Valve Timing Inlet opens 10° B. T. D. C. Inlet closes 50° A. B. D. C. Exhaust opens 50° B. B. D. C. Exhaust closes 10° A.T.D. C. Herald 1200 Engine Nos: GA.HE to GA. 164,889 HE – Inlet opens 12° B. T. D. C. GA. 177,973 HE to GA. 178,000 HE – Inlet closes 52° A. B. D. C. GB. 1 HE to GB. 2,700 HE – Exhaust opens 52° B. B. D. C. GB. 1 HE to GB. 2,700 HE – Exhaust closes 12° A. T. D. C. All other Herald 1200 and Herald 12/50 engines – Inlet opens 18° B.T.D. C. All other Herald 1200 and Herald 12/50 engines – Inlet closes 58° A. B. D. C. All other Herald 1200 and Herald 12/50 engines – Exhaust opens 58° B. B. D. C. All other Herald 1200 and Herald 12/50 engines – Exhaust closes 18° A.T.D.C.

Mk3 Spit definitely had, as I think did the TR4, the GT6 had originally a three-spoked 15" wheel with holes along the spokes rather than the 'banjo' type. I like this style of wheel but it's too big for my legs; I need a semi-dished 13" or else can't get into the driver's seat at all.

They had a lot of uses back in the day; the top one is from a Morris Minor and has different spacing on the spokes whilst the lower one is from an MGA and is a slightly different pattern, but along the same lines, and there are many other variations. I like the spacing of the spokes in Roger's version. You just need to find the correct size and fitting for the Triumph; I've no idea what size the Minor would have used so can't say if the Minor version - which is quite common - is a straight fit or not.

Keep a magnet handy for when they drop down inside the door. It's also a lot easier with the door trim removed, so you can push them up from below; you can get most if not all on this way.

When I take large parts such as wheels or bodytubs to the shotblaster he always asks if I want them primed as well, or left for myself to do. His priming is a bit rough and ready, being simply a barrier to rust and not very cosmetic, so if I want to do it myself I need to make sure it's a dry day, long enough to get the bits back home where I can coat them properly. The exposed metal will rust amazingly along the eight-mile journey home. Anything I blast at home is coated immediately but the finished item is often like new. You can't get that effect with a wire brush.

I doubt very much if the engine is off-line, certainly not enough to change the angle of the exhaust. It's probably just the angle of the downpipe / front pipe. By the time the tail pipe goes on there's enough flex / bend in the long centre pipe to straighten it back again for the rear box. Mine is on the Phoenix manifold system and has never moved any further than the day it was fitted (coming up on 18 years now!)

Yes, 80 is fine; the more important bit is the GL4 spec.

Mine is off-centre but not enough to touch the chassis. If you're concerned you can always fit a chassis bracket to straighten it.

They are in fact just about the only 'charity' or second-hand shop that does; none of the rest do for safety reasons. Always a lot of drills and electric saws in my local, plus the occasional battery charger or polisher.

I use metric ones, no intention of ruining good Imperial ones; Cash Converters sold me a bag of 64 sockets with two socket wrenches for £6....

They don't need one; I posted a photo in another thread showing the set I fitted and they're a straight push-in fit. You could try the red Polybushes but they're firmer and more difficult to press into place, and I don't really believe the extra stiffness is required.

One on eBay at present, but not cheap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-herald-vitesse-steering-column-complete-kit-car/362498595066?hash=item54669998fa:g:qJ4AAOSw84ZcAVfS Ignore THIS guy who has an over-inflated sense of value: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-VITESSE-HERALD-PARTS-VITESSE-STEERING-WHEEL-AND-COLUMN-OVERDRIVE/143060545934?hash=item214f12b18e:g:yMMAAOSw00ZZ4K9O

I'm getting a feeling of deja-vu with this one, which I don't think is solely to a lack of coffee... was this listed, and discussed, before? It's not a Herald piece that I recognise, at least not for the use you've suggested, Peter. The early Herald 1200 cappings are quite solid things of chromed steel, with an additional longer chromed bracket (I think from the hood frame / header rail?) to hold the hood seal which has a curve approximate to that in your picture, but not the same shape overall. I'll post a photo of the early Herald 1200 versions as reference.

Some great work there - love the dashboard; very modern! The spoiler removal was something I did on my GT6 MK3 and I'm in agreement that it really changed the look of the front of the car. Now I know where my missing spanner went - it's in your footwell...

More owners go for the bluetooth package than the spare these days.... it's all a question of what is now seen as a priority. If there isn't a 'spare tyre' app they don't want to know.

Wouldn't they leak all over the shelves, then? If moisture gets in, it also can get out.

Yes they do - see top photo - so all you can do, if they don't draw or press out, is remove the rubber then cut the sleeve with a long thin hacksaw blade. If fitting original replacements one edge should be chamfered to allow it to slide back in, but it takes a lot of force and plenty of grease. I've tried blue polybushes recently; easy to fit and no outer sleeve.

It's more like asking 'what is the best beer?" Everybody has their own personal favourite and reasons for it. HOWEVER: re oil: I've always used Castrol GTX or in one case Comma 20W50 (am still monitoring it!), avoid the cheap motorfactors or Supermarkety stuff.

Mine used to flood so I had a large plastic tank in it and used to float about under the car like Gollum on his raft. It was very therapeutic. However.. if you're installing a pit... don't dig TOO deep....

Must have been in the days before condoms... Well they worked on rifle barrels back in the day... I remember a device from the 1960s or even earlier that injected water into the fuel system of period cars and claimed great fuel economy - am I right it was actually called a 'bomb'? Anyone remember it?