Colin Lindsay

Any oil can will do with a good seal, there's no pressure involved, only getting the oil into the trunnion.

Nothing wrong with the 'real' natural foodstuffs, such as butter, full fat milk or the like - it's just the quantities that some people consume it in, as well as a total lack of exercise, that means people don't burn it off like they used to and so attempts are made to replace it with stuff that has the nourishment value of sawdust - eat as much as you like it won't do any harm. Or good, either. In any case, no matter how healthy we all are - or not - we still die anyway. Depressing, ain't it?

No, that's organised... something I'll never be.

Can you see where it's coming from?

Learned that from hard experience! I've tried to remove old bumpers and had the entire bracket break away. Unscrew the metal end cap and squirt Waxoyl in behind the rubber and behind the exposed ends of the metal bracket using a long nozzle. It all helps....

I'm still searching for the source of mine but if all else fails I can provide the dimensions of my dedicated Herald model if anyone wants to replicate it.

Ordinary car polish. Treat them the same as bodywork, wash and polish. Waxoyl in behind them also helps preserve the metal brackets.

You can buy a specialist tool for it. There are two different sized ends so fits most bezels. I've had this one for a number of years but it's worth the price.

Of course you can just let the oil drip away gradually over the summer, then refill at the end of the season...

The biggest problem with some suppliers is they don't display a price on their website or adverts... and some carriage costs can be surprising, such as £21 carriage on a small £18 stainless water pipe...

Does it happen when driving, or also at rest? Mine does that too, but it's a chafing wire that earths as the car drives along. It doesn't happen at rest or in the garage, which is why it took ages to diagnose. I'll replace the wire once I get time.

Jack it until you get access to the nut, undo it until loose enough to turn by hand, then drop the car down again until all the oil has drained. Simples!

Wheeler Dealers recently used Kevlar shoes on an old Volvo and reckoned they performed far better than the originals, although in truth anything was better than the originals....

Mine was supplied new by Chic Doig, admittedly around ten years ago, after I was told 'there were none left on the face of the entire planet'.... Give him a ring.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Type-Removable-Knob-Heater-Choke-Cable-Black-Knob-Triumph-TR6-622361-/201574923967 This one might be quite close to the original.

It won't be a problem Brian as the spring is manufactured especially for your model - it may look thinner but the number of leaves etc are probably compensated; the swing spring had five fairly hefty ones and late GT6 had six. Once fitted to my GT6 the ride was definitely improved; no more bottoming out or banging noises from underneath and certainly no more worries about the brakes. I had to take it off the road immediately I realised there was contact between the eye and the rear cylinder, which there hadn't been whilst jacked up for the original fitting.

I was sent these photos around 2007 by a member who had made a drain in this area, although his was plastic and screwed to the bodywork. Yours looks like a much more sturdy and tidy job. I've always made a point of drying this area and applying lots of polish / Waxoyl in around the seal to help keep the dreaded rustworm out; obviously more of a problem if your car lives outdoors all the time and water lies for prolonged periods.

This means it's the wrong spring for your car. You shouldn't have to cut or alter a correct one. If the large looped eye on each end is just that - a large looped eye - then it's wrong; the correct spring with the smaller curved eye would have fitted first time and been nowhere near the rear brake cylinders. If I'm correct in remembering, the Spitfire family will take the larger eye but my GT6 and possibly your Vitesse too requires the smaller version. The photo shows a Spitfire one I had on my car for a while until I realised it was bending the rear cylinders downwards, and so replaced it with a NOS version from Chic Doig, which came nowhere near the brakes.

The drain holes are also curved so difficult to keep grommets in; however I'd recommend as Clive and Dick have said and not block the holes at all. You can access the area behind the sills from the side carpet; remove the side strips on the inside of each sill and this gives excellent access to clean and rustproof. Pay particular attention to the areas where there are no drains i.e. extreme front and rear corners; even an aerosol can of Waxoyl (or Tetroseal which I find is thinner and covers better, but needs more frequent replacement) with a long nozzle extension will get good protection into the crevices.

This is the bit that breaks off, and usually at the same point:

And in Wintery, too....

I always loved it when the boy racers would pull up alongside my GT6 and make it clear they wanted a race... they just got the polite version of 'get stuffed' as I pulled away sedately and let them get on with it. Too many years of Landrover driving have left me very happy at 55 - 60 mph. Or was it too many near misses as a young driver?

They don't call them worry gauges for nothing.... ignorance is bliss but once you have one, you can't stop watching it as you drive along... sort of a car-hypochondria! I found the voltmeter much less bother to fit than an ammeter, but as long as the ammeter is fitted with the correct and often heavy gauge of electric cable it should be ok, provided as Clive says it's sufficiently highly rated to cope with the extra power and show an accurate reading.

...but they still require replacement at regular intervals; the interior rubber perishes just as any hose does. Some people think they're a permanent once-in-a-lifetime upgrade!

Too many people try to slide them on from one end, this won't work. Hook them over the top edge in the position you require them then lie underneath and hook the underside in place while you, if possible, press or pull down on the top edge - or get someone else to push them down for you as you work underneath. Lubricate with wet freshly sprayed Waxoyl as you go. The greasier, the easier, as they say.