PeteH

I`m sure I`ve seen photo`s somewhere of one painted a medium Green?. But from the factory, I suspect all Black.? Pete

I cannot see much wrong with your aproach?. As an aside I would measure, or perhaps even brace the B Posts?. As the potential effect of pushing out on the rear wings could Twist the B posts in?. (if you follow?). I "curred" spread with a 10 ton Span Strap. over the body!!. Pete

I was never sure, but one of the "old hands" said it was better to fit the lid/cap to the rim as the "stiffer" combination then "turned" better without distortion?. I understand it`s the same with the larger tins too. Of course most modern day paint cans are in any case "plastic". Pete

"Bonded" Raw Rum. Was a regular Cargo from the West Indies. Ships crew, (Liverpool Lads) no respecters of such nicetites as "bond" where adept at gaining access and "broaching" a few pints. Mixed with enought Cola, neat it could send you mad and blind, allegedly, it was a relief from some of the rubbish lagers which where ship stores. Pete

Talk about "Blast from the past", As a "Journeyman", just prior to going into the M-N. I refurbished the Dies for those tinlets. Back then they where made at the Metalbox factory in Hull, for the original paint supplier, also Hull, hence Humbrol, just a few miles away. They must have pressed millions of them. Bought Out by Chinese Interests as I understand it, Along with "Airfix". The tiny indents visible on the rim are made by the die when the rim is "turned" (rolled) onto the pressed body, complete with lid after filling. Pete

Female Support Undergarments, are frequently amongs the "Finds", when one enters Triumph in the search line. Her indoors, refering to certain store with exotic wear to one of her lady friends, remarked "you, know that one that does the "tupperwear" (type) parties". I didn`t know tupperwear was that exotic?. Pete.

Early one`s where assembled using very large Spanners and a 14/28lb hammer. Later it became far more sophisticated with Hydrulically stretched bolts. Hammers, in varying sizes where Engine Space Staple. The largest I ever worked with was 1000mm bore by 2000mm stroke, 9 Cylinders running 106 rpm. "Modern" Marine engineers, rarely, if ever. do the amount of on ship maintenence we did, they will bring on gangs from shoreside, but in port, who do sometimes travel with the ship. Back in the 60`s I inherited an Engine crew of 15 to 21 or more, which by the time I went shoreside, was down to 3 and the part time cleaner. Apologies for "rabbiting on", it`s a lifetime away now. BTW, laterly we found a lot of "interesting" uses for "copaslip", especially when crossing the line😁 Pete

Interesting?, On one very large (890mm Bore) Marine Diesel, the maker actually "experimented" with using even spaced pegs in the ring grooves to stop rotation. Unsure just how sucessfull it was though. I do remember they where a "right pig" to fit properly, and if you got them wrong getting the ring out again without breakage was night on impossible. Pete

Spitbit`s? He`s sitting on a Windscreen for me, until I can get there. Pete

SWMBO. (so Far) has had 2 HIps. (1 replaced aftet 15years) I knee, Same leg, and a strengthening bar to support the broken Femur. My estimate is about 5kg of quality steel. (we joke about having her "weighed in") With a LOT of gut`s and effort, it all works, she reports very little discomfort. At the moment her issues are more medical than Prosthetic. By comparison, I have "rusty" knees, the result of years of crawling about inside Pressure Vessels, Tanks and Boilers. But the buggers arn`t get me under the knife any time soon!. Pete

Sadly, if it is "encapsulated" even if you get it apart, there wont be much you can do. I`ve had several Towing signal devices fail over the years and they always have to be binned as the circuitry is just a solid mass of Resin. Maybe it`s time to fit a newer system incorporating a Tracker?. Pete

Hi Ref; Thrust Clearances, I have this from the Haynes Manual for the Herald:- The Thrust Clearance would appear to be extremely tight, a Mere 4 to 6 Thousand of an inch. Suggesting that the clearances shown by the DTI, are well out of specification? (5 Thou; is 0.127mm)(0.2mm is 0.00787402")(0.32mm would be 0.01259843)(0.68mm = 0.02677165) Or so my Calculator would have it.? EDIT:- Just realised that is for the 1147 Engine. But the float for the 13/60. is still quoted at only 0.0042 to 0.0085". (0.11 to 0.216mm). I supose to be fair, assuming the wearing face was acceptable (undamaged) it is probable the replacement of the Thrust with new thrust bearings of the same thickness should bring it back within acceptable tolerance?. Pete

In some cases the "rusting", has much to do with environment, For example, IF you habitially use wire wool scourers to clean pans as some do, in a stainless sink, (Not ON the sink it`self) it can aquire "rust spots" due to very small particles being left behind when the bowl is rinsed. These are easily removed with the right product, leaving no effect on the sink itself. Seaside atmosphere`s are notorious for having high saline content often with other chemical elements. Pete

Bet that does very little for his “Street Cred”. Though😃 Pete ?

I got chased by a "warden" some years back in York. I went over the 11am deadline on a delivery to (I Think?) The Works?. Several Pallets of books etc; are Bloody heavy and hand pallet trucks have a mind of their own, even worse on cobbles. Pete

👍 Our old Vittesse had Dolly, seats fitted, bonus was a headrest too IIRC. I fitted MX seats to the 13/60 back a while, since removed and stored pending finishing, along with Seat belts. I think the post should still be here somewhere? If I find it I`ll add link. Pete

There is a lot of "misinformation" about stainless steels. The "usability" of which is dependant upon it`s grade. Some are highly resistant to corrosion with a tendacy toward brittleness, other`s are more tolerant, but less resitant to chlorines. Something we "discovered" in the post Leigoninella days back in the 80`s. When components in Air Con and similar plants where failing pressure testing, due to chlorine attack. As Pete rightly referenced, "old fashioned" steel bowden cable, like stainless needs some form of lubrication, so the necessity to use stainless is really something of overkill, in an engineering sense. I supose it looks pretty, all nice and shiney?. Pete

Have`nt heard that in years. Father used "sprit of Salts" (Hydrocloric acid) when soldering, needed to "passiffy" afterwards though. I have about 1/2 Gallon which I used to clean Brickwork. Pete

Market St?. I thought it was traffic free after 11am?. Pete

Not sure about aluminium, but my go to for copper is White vinegar crystals dilituted, brought my old copper ships brass and lights up a treat. I use it for an annual descale and sanitising of the motorhome water systems too, as it does not affect Stainless steel which the more popular Chlorides can. Some grades of stainless are not chlorine resistant, as we found out in the aftermath of the 80`s "legionella" outbreak when air con units and cooling systems where being "overdosed" in an effort to kill off the bacterium!. Leading to scrappage of very expensive equipment which was failing pressure testing. On one ocasion it put a Laboratory in Petersfield out of action for several weeks!. Pete

I still have a length of s/s steel rod, about 3/32dia, if I recall?. For making replacements. I lost that many on an “old” car.😭 push the rod in and cut with a junior hacksaw. 😃 Pete

Steel Screws?. Blue tack? and Magnetic screwdrivers. Saved the day for me many times. But yes, one of the more annoying of lifes facts is losing the fastener, always on the day no alternative is available!!.☹️ Once had to change a wheel, in a layby, Took the hub cap off put the wheel nuts in the hub cap. Young son`s, bored, kicking a football while dad "did the business". Yes, the inevitable hapened, ball hit hub cap, hub cap flew off at great speed, 3 of the 4 nuts disapeard down a gully, never to be seen again.!!!!. We drove home, VERY carefully with just 3 nuts on 3 of the wheels. Mother, was NOT impressed, her day out being curtailed, neither was I. Pete

Sad when it has to deteriorate to this level. However, my experience of most Forum, is that to get the FULL use of the site you have to be a PAYING contributor. Eg:. For many years, as the owner of an American R-V (Motorhome, to the uninitiated). I was a "leading light" on a forum, paying my dues as a full member. I no longer contribute financially, but ocasionally something ticks in my inbox, and I will go and look. I have had ocasion to have been able to assist some "newbie", but I am, by virtues of not being a full member, ONLY able to "View" any of the site. I can no longer post, even on tech; matters. Yes, it is their loss, but I can see the point. Here only some of the "Social" area`s are to be closed, technical sections are largely unaffected. Doug, may have been blunt in his assertations, but one can see his point?. And outside of Face-ache, most Forum attached to "clubs" are limited in access to to non paying "associates". The choice is ours?. Sort of P.s.? I hope the section`s that inform on meet`s and other gatherings will not become closed, as encouraging new blood by the very fact of being able to associate "on the ground" as it where, is going to become even more essential as the "old guard" inevitably die out.☹️ Pete

Porridge in the Radiator?. Sawdust in the Diff:? ?👍 Pete

Unfortunately. They do have a greater atrition rate. Many I see have (at least) panel rot, and My Godson who is an MX Guru and the source of my Seats, Makes a decent living out of refurbishing them for MX club members in the North East. I believe the early one (at least) where not sufficiently protected against the UK`s salted roads and climate. Colin. When I last spoke to his Mother the boy was working in the mid East somewhere on a power plant job. But if you are interested in MX seats in Tan?. I could try E-Mailing him?. Pete