Anglefire

I remember an episode of top gear I think where they poured petrol on a hot exhaust manifold. It smoked a bit. They did the same think with brake fluid and it went up like a fire cracker. It’s why they cable tied a lot of reservoirs to the master cylinder - before they put them behind another bulk head in more modern times.

I get your point - but also, the opened bottle has been exposed to the atmosphere - and if you were to use it to top up within the 2 years of a brake fluid flush, then that would be fine - at least as good as the fluid in the system, but if you use it to flush a system, you have no idea of the true moisture content, so don't know for sure how long it will be before it needs changing again. An unopened bottle is a different kettle of fish - in theory that should last a good while.

I have no spare nor space for one in my bmw - the batttery lives in the space. Went to America in October and we found out the spare and jack and any gunk had been removed when we had a puncture- in the sidewall with the nearest replacement 80miles away in cedar city. The local tyre place refused to repair it due to its location and 3 tins of the gunk didn’t seal it. Our landlord had a repair kit and we repaired it and we did get to cedar city. It was a bit hairy as much of the route had no phone signal either. When I had my Land Rover I did 174000miles in 7years and had 2 punctures - both when off road - both times I had a spare - in fact I carried two when off road as did most of us that went.

Definitely not Xmas spirit. I really detest the after effects. Our works Xmas party had a free bar. I still only had a couple of pints and a glass of wine.

Did the front springs this morning. Was quite easy really. Just quite tight to get them in. But a bit of wiggling and dropping the anti-roll bar off helped. Had hoped to do the rear shocks too. But felt a bit dizzy - I’ve had it before and think it’s just too much standing up and getting down affecting my inner ears - so didn’t bother. Another day for that one. I also know I’m going to have to cut off the upper bolts to get them out.

Don't see the point of buying a bottle of brake fluid to sit on the shelf, opened for up to four years and replace the old stuff in the car. It won't have as much water in it, but for less than £5 I would buy new every change!

Sounds like it’s the ignition switch. Check the feed to the switch - if that is normal, then keep going back until you get to the source. It might be another fused feed - I don’t have the diagrams to hand.

Funny you mention that. Snowing yesterday

I've just bought a bigger lens funnily enough.

I wasn't trying to undo it, but tighten it up as it was weeping. Seems ok now I think.

Either the mechanical type stabilizer (The original type) or the modern electronic type give out 10v.

Do they read? If so, leave them be and just get used to what is normal for your car. They are never more than indication as they aren't calibrated. If they don't work, then that is a different story!

Jiggle pin is not essential, but having a hole is very much desirable. Castrol GTX has been around for as long as I can remember and was the oil of choice back when I first owned cars.

@JohnD, I read it originally as track day tyres that work well on the road. But really does it matter? you seem to be getting very stressed about it and it really isn't worth it - Its a car forum full of mostly blokes talking rubbish 1/2 the time. Like being in the pub!

Ah that makes sense. Jiggle pin and blockages makes sense too - but also could be just to give a small flow. Mind you isn’t the jiggle pin arranged so the ball (which I assume is hollow) floats and closes the hole when the water is full? So your logic is even more logical!

I back flushed through from the heater end too.

I do wonder the purpose of the hole. I mean I know it’s so air can get through - but when the engine warms up the stat opens anyway. Or am I missing something?

I use both Canley classics and James Paddock - both been good - Canley don't tell you the postage until the end from memory - but is usually reasonable.

If the pump has play in it, I would change it now as once you've put £30 of antifreeze in, and it does fail (And antifreeze is searching) you will kick yourself! Castrol is fine - Halfords classic is also not bad - Clive I think says its good for engines not hard driven - I'm sure he will comment! @clive Make sure as I think Pete has already said, that the stat has a hole and a jiggle pin in it and is not plain. Not really as has been said. Many are blocked from new.

Mine leaked from that bolt that you have non coming out of - it is a common block point as it has little flow. Poke with a bit of wire might shift some of the crud. Change the cap - don't cost a lot but get a decent one. Engine mounts shouldn't be hard to change (I replaced mine when I put the new engine in.) just need to lift the engine up and remove and replace - though the chances are there is something in the way.

Just been reminded 6. Fit modern fuse box. (Also already bought)

Hopefully the right place for this one! With the approaching Christmas holidays - I've been planning some work on my Spitfire 1500. Replacing front and rear shocks, and front springs - have already bought all that is required to do the job - I hope! Change the studs for the new wheels I've just bought. Get the bonnet to fit better - its too low on the one side so rattles on the bumper - just needs adjusting. And the headlamps need to be made to fit better - they are a little looser than I'd like. And I need to fit the oil pressure gauge properly And drive it!

That's a given 😂 Its ok though, because you can still get repair kits.

I don't doubt that is what the instructions say Paul, doesn't mean they should be so fragile though!

Really? That strikes me as bad design. They should cater for the basic errors that a normal user would make. So kind! To be fair, I've not heard particularly good reports from Accuspark.........