Anglefire

Trouble with the remain/leave thing is - we know what remain is like. And possibly what is coming. (Eu army compulsory euro? more central control etc) we don’t know what leave is like. Not now. We know historically what it was like , but that is some 30 odd years ago and things have changed. And everyone has different views of what the landscape will be like post Brexit. Most politicians seem to suggest it will be dire. Massive food and supplies shortages. Mass unemployment. brexiters see a land of utopia and untold wealth.

That's what I read too John - just couldn't remember where!😂

Unlikely as I think the hosting space is huge - there is no limit on photograph or document size for example (Well I think there is, but it is huge!)

When I had my Land Rover, it came back from the garage a couple of times with copper slipped wheel nuts - I always cleaned it off and re-torqued correctly as failure is well known as the increased effective torque. The only place for grease on brakes is on the mating faces between the wheel and hub.

You can also get brake pipe spanner’s that are open but have a smaller gap to get it over the pipe but then grip on all faces (or 5 out of 6) of the nut.

My daughters 107 does similar. But it just spins - can take 2 or 3 goes to get the pinion to engage. Must take it out when it’s a bit warmer to investigate.

Oh and I think it’s Hyundai or another similar manufacturer is making sure the engine stops in a certain position and when it comes to restart - it injects fuel and adds a spark and it restarts. Now that is quite clever.

Pete is your car auto or manual? i ask because I hired a minibus a couple of years ago and it had ss and was manual. That actually worked well because it does nothing until you go into neutral and declutch. So at a junction you are in gear and have the clutch down and can go when the gap appears. In an auto the engine stops and takes 1/2” to Start before you can go. Not only that I worry that the constant ss will ultimately knacker the engine or starter. Probably not within warranty so the manufacturer doesn’t care.

As I keep saying, I both hate it and have it permanently set to default to off on my BMW. Cost me about £100 for the dongle and software. Worth every penny! If I go into ECO mode it does revert to stop/start - but I don't go into that mode very often - experience has shown that that mode saves about 1mpg on a good day - driving style being more influential. Though saying to lift off when approaching a junction or island etc it mildly amusing. 😂

I have one of those - well not exactly. Mine is 35odd years old and has more bits - but very handy as the head comes off and exposes a 1/2” square drive. I guess this is the same. Though I have recently invested in a dewalt impact wrench

I'm going to get my Dad to make me a new dash for my Spitfire before he is too old to do it (He's only 81 now..........) he was a teacher and cabinet maker and has a selection of veneers I can pick from. I have found a LHD template on the net - just needs flipping and checking........

7V does seem a little low - but ~15v ish sounds normal.

I didn't like start/stop way before Brexit came along My daily is german, SWMBO's is Japanese, my youngest is French and obviously I have British with the Spitfire. So I embrace the world. Just don't want to have the Europeans telling me what rules I have to obey with - even if I might choose to obey them.............

Ah ok - I saw the prices in ££ so assumed............... Assumption is the route of all evil!

A good place for batteries is Tanya https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/

A lot of modern cars charge at over 15V these days - can cause havoc with some 3rd party accessories if they are expecting a max of 14V (Though to be fair rare nowadays!) And things like radio's are coded to the car via the VIN number so swapping a battery in that sense is not an issue, but you do need to tell the battery management system you have changed it so it can reset to a clean start. One of the first things I did on my BMW was buy a diagnostic tool to turn off the stop-start function by default - as i have probably said before, I find it dangerous in an auto as it will stop the engine as soon as you get to say a Tee junction - just when you are about to pull away. And whilst it might be better for the environment in the short term, I am not convinced that the extra wear on the engine and associated peripherals is good long term.

From another thread on here is this link https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/triumph,1977,spitfire,1.5l+l4,1279919,engine,oil+filter,5340 They appear to do the 5/8 to 3/4 adapter as well as a few suitable filters. For not much money as it happens.

Sounds like my garage Clive 🙄

The standard filters from most of the usual suspects don’t seem to have non return valves on the filters. You can get ones with double valves that are standard fitment - but are hard to come by - it you can get an adapter for the filter to a more standard size with more options. @clivedid have some adapters for a very reasonable price.

I've just looked again and it is one I've read before. It is interesting, but I still am not convinced that I would change over to it - at least not unless I was doing a complete system change. Something I did last year, so won't be repeating for a while yet! Peddle feel is the other issue that I'm not sure I would be happy with - my brakes took a lot of bedding in (for whatever reason!) to get a nice firm peddle. If it was to remain soft, I would be concerned that there was an issue! 😂 Flushing the brake fluid through every couple of years is not a big deal. £5 or so in fluid and an hours work. But each to their own.

I think I’ve read it before. I wasn’t convinced the pros outweigh the cons to be honest. You are right that water will boil whatever- but silicone fluid doesn’t absorb any so remains in the aqueous state.

I have no data to add, but it stands to reason - any water that gets into the fluid will collect somewhere and reduce the efficiacy of the braking system as it will boil quite quickly and make steam. With the other dot’s The water is absorbed into the fluid so in theory at least remains more efficient. The rate of water ingress is the big unknown.

I had a Vauxhall Nova 1.3Sr back in the day And that had been lowered. The springs used to dislocate on that and I did cable tie them to the struts. Never was a problem.

Hi Roger, I drilled the backplate - annoyingly I couldn't get the hole lined up to the stud so had to go in at an angle - but they did go in in the end. As for the old ones coming out - I was expecting more of a fight - the front seemed pretty tight- but the rear barely needed a tap - one of them almost fell out 🙄 And I have to get some blind grommets - I thought i had some, but turned out the box I have (From when I rewired the house 25years ago!) are open.

No problem. Offer is there - as it is to anyone else to! Got rear wheels fitted now