DanMi

Without taking the cam out and looking for an identifying numbers, the only way would be to measure the valve timing. Of course if they have fitted a weber carb it's not unlikely that the cam is not standard. It may also have had other mods. Mine is pretty easy to rev and is standard

it should be pointing between the lugs on the indicator switch, normally 3 oclock (I have swapped mine to match moderns so 9 on mine). I suspect a new rack has been put on and not centralised. You need to count the number of turns lock to lock, then turn back half of this number, this is the central position then put the column on so that the cancel lug is in the right place and d then put the wheel on straight, then set the tracking to match

or these guys overhauled my speedo and they say they can print faces in any colour/font on rebuilt units so again maybe they would supply the faces. https://www.classicsparesengineering.co.uk/about-us.php#services

Why not contact the guy in Denmark, maybe he could supply just the faces, he can only say no

don't forget that seatbelts were not a factory fit in the 60s (not sure of exact dates) so even most of the so called originals are really aftermarket ones or the dealer fitted whatever they had. Quickfitsbs replaced the webbing on my Britax Excelsiors belts in a light grey blue colour and supplied all of the fixings a couple of years ago

I would put the top back on the pump connect the pipe from the tank and the operate the lever manually you should get a good squirt of fuel with each pump. If you do then the pump is basically fine. If not then there is either a blockage or the pump is not working. There are kits available to repair or buy a replacement. Also try with the fuel cap open as a blocked tank breather could cause pressure

the diaphragm is the red rubber bit between the 2 halve of the body you would need to undo the screws which can be seen. The black circle is a one way valve. Ah Pete beat me

definitely out for on then the air distribution is controlled by flaps either side of the heater unit

a blockage somewhere, I would run a hose pipe through all the pipes until it runs clear

Yep I bought a couple of the early brass taps all sent back as they leaked, ow just have a blanking plug

You should be able to access it by just pulling down the top of the shelf, no need to strip it out, I do agree though it is an awkward place. You shouldn't need to access it often though

if you have the longer ones just don't pull them full up so long as the spikes engage they will still work even if the clip is not tight up against the edge of the lip. There are also issues with pattern door skins. I know my spit needs long clips as the lip they attach to is longer than original

I just put a bit of engine oil on the lip and a smear on the crank where the seal will sit

As far as I am aware there are no timing marks on the flywheel only on the front pulley. I don't think the flywheel and crank were balanced together, so as long as the dowel fits that should be ok

The flow through the manifold heats the incoming air/fuel a bit to help in cold weather, probably not doing any good with the way the cars are driven today

firstly have you got the correct bushes as that is a late Spitfire 1500 steering column not a GT6, I'm not familiar with these but I believe they are different

If you have the head off it's easy to see if it has been converted, as you will be able to see the valve seat inserts on the exhaust ports. Valve stem seals were never fitted at the factory. https://enginetekniks.co.uk/unleaded-conversions/

You should be able to get the tunnel off by releasing the handbrake and the putting the car into 4th/2nd gear and just fiddle with the gear lever whilst pulling the tunnel off. If the clutch plate is seized to the flywheel I have in the past warmed the engine and then started in gear then drive with the clutch in pressing and releasing the throttle of course that requires space. You can also run it on axle stands and do a similar thing though make sure it's secure. If all else fails it's gearbox out and clutch off.

not sure how you are getting on with the bonnet but just spotted this on ebay not cheap but looks pretty solid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-spitfire-mk2-bonnet/174243739535?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D8b03f45339d94331b29abbcd60675923%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D264692578052%26itm%3D174243739535%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A36479eb5-7971-11ea-8321-ce6ae2775303|parentrq%3A58dc6f731710a4d23a4172fdfff02240|iid%3A1

The flywheel is different between the spring and diaphragm clutches that looks like a later diaphragm. The flywheel looks a bit scored and very shiny so maybe worth having it skimmed. plus yes remove and check the backplate

or you can download a simple bit of code called mouse jiggler which just moves the mouse pointer every now and then to simulate use

there is no mention of a hydraulic brake light switch in the mk1 spit parts manual, though I agree that's what it looks like and where that brake connector is located is where the starter solenoid would normally be. So long as it works

what is the 3 way joint in the brake pipe on the bulkhead for that is not standard

Yes the overriders attach by hooking over over the small cutout on the welded on bracket and then bolt through one of the holes in the front plus through the bumper and a spacer. There are 2 holes as the GT6 has slightly different overriders

3/8 unf is the standard wheel stud size, but the wheel nuts need the correct taper and I believe are harder than standard