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DanMi

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Everything posted by DanMi

  1. this might be worth a query about the bonnet https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-Mk-II-1965-For-Parts/124106521867?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D42c80652138742919326abc823accf92%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D164098707453%26itm%3D124106521867%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A2b78db4d-5e40-11ea-9a81-74dbd180a863|parentrq%3Aa6a88c821700a4d23a4da18bffe98454|iid%3A1
  2. The bolt on bracket to which the bonnet attaches are available jamespaddock.co.uk/bonnet-hinge-tube-bracket-mk1-11-2
  3. How badly bent are the brackets on the crashed chassis? The proper way would be to cut these off, repair and weld to the MK3 chassis. You could use mk3 bonnet and tubes but would then have to use mk3 bumper/overriders and valance
  4. and to put it in context fixed spring was mk1-3 and they changed to swing spring on mk4 and 1500 to reduce rear wheel tuck under on hard cornering. Many myself included update both spring and ARB when restoring. The very late mk4 and 1500 also had longer half shafts. on 50+ year old cars what you have will often not be as it left the factory.
  5. to tell which rear spring you have, the original has 6 bolts which hold all leaves down the swing spring has 4 bolts holding a box down so that the upper leaf has a bit of movement
  6. early spit should be 11/16 later 7/8. However these have been changed over the years. the 7/8 was to counteract the greater roll from the later swing spring, which you may have. I run the later mk4 swing spring with 7/8 on my mk2 and of course someone may have fitted an aftermarket one at some point
  7. Firstly does it need recalibrating to a different turns per mile or just reconditioning to original? The mark2 should have a 110mph speedo with 1248 turns per mile, this will be a number on the face to the top right of the needles spindle. If that is correct and the gearbox is a 3 rail and the diff still a 4.11 and standard diameter wheels then it will need resetting to original. maybe the magnets have weakend or needle moved. It should do 50mph at 3000 rpm in 4th gear. If it reads this but you are going faster maybe the diff has been changed so you will need to change the turns per mile or get a speed from the car the diff came from assuming it was a 3 railed gearbox car I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/classicspareseng1 when mine read high and is now pretty accurate. The 2 companies above will also do the job
  8. personally I would get the tub etc swapped onto the new chassis before looking at that bonnet as it has had a lot of work done to it and you will never know how well it is likely to fit without a good chassis/tub to trial. I would also get it cleaned back to see what is actually there as there appears to be a lot of filler in the sidelamp areas and to assess the quality of work done.. I definitely have the left hand light ring 612873 and the wings, they have been in my shed for 10 years, so there is no rush Lots of stuff is described as New Old stock but that could today mean 15 year old poor quality stuff unless you know the manufacturer!
  9. I have a number of bonnet panels in my shed. ie a pair of wings, one nos Stanpart with a few storage bruises and some surface rust and 1 pattern, I think 2 D plates and 1 light ring though I can't remember which side all bought to repair my MK2 bonnet but eventually converted a brand new MK3 as it worked out very little more expensive considering the labour cost. (not available now). I was just keeping them just in case but would part with them for a reasonable sum to help get another back on the road.Of course I used the sidelight repair panels to adapt the mk3 bonnet.
  10. looks like you will also need to let in sidelight/indicator panels as that area appears flat as well
  11. The oil pumps are slightly different early are iron later aluminium. Also the pickups are different, the early 1147 didn't have a strainer then they went to a straight pipe with a strainer and the later 1500 had an angled pickup and I believe a slightly larger pump. They will all fit though as I have the late angled type in my 1147. I can't see why the herald and spitfire would have different oil pressure as it's the same block crank and oil pump (for cars of the same period)
  12. Plus I would rather pay a few quid more for NOS quality, even if you just use the rings and swop them to the existing pistons. They are also PEP so have a slight lip on the upper ring so are designed not to break on the slight ridge from bore wear, though I would have hat honed out anyway
  13. just looked in the loft hepolite Nos Split skirt 16178 fine for the early lower powered herald 1200 and prob even the 1250 but not ideal for the 67hp spitfire solid skirt with small end 18690 press fit solid skirt 18261 these are rare Most sellers simply put 18690 even if split skirt hence the no written in pencil which is why I bought a set which I have never used.
  14. ps I have a set of NOS hepolite split skirt pistons +0.020 with PEP top ring in the loft bought fro ebay b4 I relised the difference when rebuilding my spit engine
  15. As far as I know the difference was as Pete says split v solid skirt. The early pistons had an extra oil control ring below the gudgeon pin (split skirrt) these proved to be a bit weak on the more powerful (particularly the higher tuned spitfire engine) so they went to solid skirt. the later ones can be used in any 1147 engine but I wouldn't put the split skirt in my MK2 spitfire. The other difference (not sure it applies to heralds) is most 1147 engine had small end bearings with gudgeon pins held in place by circlips some spit engines had no small ends and gudgeon pins that were pressed in so no circlips. Either can be used so long as the pistons match the conrods. The other difference in the lower engine is the rear oil seal, early cars had the scroll type later had a rubber oil seal. Again interchangeable as long as the oil seal housing matches the crank.
  16. Also check for crud in the fuel tank blocking the lines as this can mean insufficient fuel is supplied particularly at high usage
  17. mk1 spit would have only had the mounts in the rear floor corner and on the tunnel as they didn't have seatbelts from the factory. Anything else is aftermarket, added when seatbelts became compulsory.
  18. yep the difference is just the slots for the bumper iron on the early cars
  19. I would first check that the non return valves are working there is one in the washer bottle and you may need one after the pump (I think there should be one in the pump but often fails). The inner is a rubber bladder which may well have perished my spit mk2 one did and then it leaks. They can be very carefully taken apart by lifting the crimp over the plastic end. If it is the same as the spit repros are available.
  20. I take the grease nipple out of the upright put somthing under the seal and just use a standard oil can no need for pressure gravity works just fine.
  21. when I replaced the water pump on my old 1500 engine the replacement (repro) pump did have a bigger diameter pulley than the original just measure the fan belt that fits and source one the same length. Modern repro parts are not always exactly the same as original
  22. In reality though a 063 is not original fitment on a Triumph and the real reason a lot have them fitted is that they are easily obtainable as they are a common fitment in more modern cars and they fit in albeit with the terminals at the back
  23. I know that it's not as fun or creative, but why not simply phone Spitfire Graveyard, Spitbitz etc. and get a less worn one? I'm pretty sure that they are not like hen's teeth. I have managed to squirrel away a couple of genuine rover bushes for when mine next needs doing and I don't think there is any wear in the allow socket..
  24. DanMi

    Fuel pipe?

    The metal pipe is just a piece of metal fuel pipe with 2 bends easy to make. something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6MM-OD-x-2-5MTR-22G-EASY-FLARE-COPPER-FUEL-PIPE/201065623916?epid=1532301197&hash=item2ed071f16c:g:0HYAAOxyuCJRfQxr then 2 bits of R9 hose to join to the carbs and a couple of pipe clips to attach to the air box bolts
  25. Is the tachometer and speedo reading correctly as as stated above the herald/ early spitfire 4.11 diff gives 3000rpm at 50mph
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