DanMi

I have wired mine exactly as Pete says and it makes much more sense

the mk2 gt6 bonnet is a basically mk3 spit with a bulge. So you need the mk2 spit bonnet tubes (my mk2 / 3 refers to spitfire)

My spit mk2s bonnet was made for a mk3 with the sidelights, front grill and tubes replaced so yes it will work but you will need the mk2 bonnet tubes

They didn't have them but I guess these would do the job or cut a bit out of the 1300 ones to clear the throttle rods http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-WITH-HS2-CARBURETTORS-STAINLESS-HEAT-SHIELD-KIT-MST018-/172792252896?hash=item283b3889e0:g:8UEAAOSw5uFZdbKg

It.s on SORN last MOT 2014 so it still exists

originally both fully painted. I decided to only paint the exposed parts of the front plate as internally it will be coated in oil and I don't trust the new paint to not fall off into the oil. The rear plate is not subject to oil (assuming all gaskets and seals work) so maybe should be fully painted, though with the Triumph rust protection system it will prob be coated in oil

To be honest. I just put the engine together so taking the head off is not too serious particularly if I wait till winter when I don't use the car. I will try the above first and have a chat with the shop that did the head work. Only problem with head off is that I used my new old stock head gasket and probably won't find another and I don't think Payen do am 1147 one.

I can at least get at the top and will try the Loctite and a hammerring

Hi all I have just rebuilt my mk2 spitfire's 1147cc engine after being in the garage for 25 years (car was a 1500) the head was converted to unleaded and lightly skimmed. Now I find oil leaking from the pushrod tubes. Is there any way to fix this, preferably without stripping the head back off. I can't really tell if the leak is top or bottom. Dan Miller

The problem is that the inside of most modern tyres (which are tubeless) are rough which can rub the inner tube which is not good. I'm with Doug wire wheels look pretty but are a serious pain with lots of flex, rapidly wearing out splines, difficulty balancing and tube issues. I have a set sitting in my garden and don't use them.

to the rear lower edge of the inner arch to seal between arch and bulkhead

If the rust is surface and not too deep deox gel works. I cover with cling film and leave to work. Though a flap disk on an angle grinder is also good.

Hi Guys I am rebuilding my MK2 spitfire's original engine. Should the front plate be painted before assemby as it seems to have been from new or should I leave the internal parts as bare steel. I can see from the original that quite a lot of the paint has flaked off particularly in the timimg chain area, surely this just gats in the oil Dan Miller

I have never understood clamping the pipe. By the time you have worked on the wheel cylinder / caliper and then reattach the thread will not fit exactly the same so you need to undo the end attached to the pipe to realign the flexible hose, rendering clamping pointless. Cling film under the master cylinder cap prevents major loss.

efp Possibly a patents label mine has not had one in my ownership http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Underbonnet-patent-sticker-Triumph-Herald-Vitesse-Spitfire-TR4-TR5-TR6-/222361917063?hash=item33c5cd9687:g:d4kAAOSw5cNYZoEt

Yes standard wheel and they are the same as the herald. I would try and get the late mk3, vitesse or Herald estate version as the are 4.5J herald and earlier spit are 3.5J

John/James at JY Classics did a great job on my MK2 spit, still looking good 5 tears later.

parklaneclassics.co.uk is well regarded but may have a backlog as he has been ill

If the cam is not connected the stroke is not yet set so No1 TDC is No1 TDC. With No1 at TDC then you set the cam so that the valves on no1 are closed and the valves on no4 are at the same lift (If I remember correctly)

I don't even bother with a gun just put an allen key under the seal and then use an oil can to squirt the oil in til it comes out around the seal, then I know it is full to the seal remove the allen key and add a bit more.

A quick google reveals Moss do them http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/switch-bezel-tool-384-960.html

Beal.org.uk do cheap fasteners though only basic ones

the 1152 is the number of turns of the cable per mile. That needs to be the same to get the correct calibration, not sure about the 42a bit

If the 2 halves of the bearing are drilled and pinned (mine comes from a mk4 spit) then it can be drilled out but then just use thread lock on reassembly. I had to talk to ODspares to get mine apart as I hadn't spotted the tiny pin so spent hours trying to unscrew it, they told me to just use threadlock on reassembly. Hopefully Pete is correct in your case

Once the bearing is out it is quite tricky to take apart as they are screwed on then pinned which means the pin has to be drilled out before unscrewing. You can buy the whole assembly which is much easier http://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/buy-spares.php?cat=D but out of stock or try odspares.com or you can get just the seal 506066s and oring 506115 from Jamespaddock etc cheaper but much more work (I have assumed d type od) I was advised to use threadlock when reassembling mine and has been ok for a couple of years now. ( I did it the cheap way but wished I'd just spent the extra)