DanMi
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Everything posted by DanMi
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has the pivot pin fallen out?
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Don't cut the frame, the frame is correct ie as it came from the factory, the rest needs looking at, ie the fit of the gearbox tunnel (I had to trim my plastic one a bit) if not the cardboard original, is any insulation/the carpet getting in the way. I pull mine down from the position yours is in with longer bolts into the floor
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If you can lift the dash, the car needs major sill repair, which it doesn't look like is the case. That just looks like it is being blocked by the carpet and the bulk of the gear lever gaitor, mine is similar. I would first try fitting it without the carpet in place. For me it is a case of pulling the carpet forward as the frame goes in. By the way that looks a lot like an younger sibling of my car
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It's a pain of a job. I have been known to use longer bolts to slowly pull the frame down, swapping to shorter as it goes into place. I just use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the bits of excess carpet from the holes. With the combination of pattern carpets and possibly gearbox cover it can be a tight fit, I know mine is especially as most new carpets have the vinyl gearlever gaitor sewn on to a non molded carpet which makes it pretty thick just where the frame sits.
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If they were the seats are saw they said they were just recovered so with covers at £240 the pair base foams £140 and the squab kit 60 which comes to about £440 that price is less than you would pay to have your seats recovered.
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I believe some cars eg mini did have a screw hence the new ones do have a screw hole that goes at the bottom where you can't get at it on a spt
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I agree, pretty pointless anyway with a roof that can simply be un-clipped unless of course you have the hardtop
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Do you have the modern tubular rubber door seals, as I found that these are too tight and push the bottom of the door out. Try to see if the door aligns without the seal.
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Take the wheels off and lower the car so that the uprights sit on blocks or stands so the weight is in the right place with no wheels in the way.
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Rear swing spring conversion dangerous due to camber?
DanMi replied to Andy D's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
I've had a swingspring on my mk2 for 30 years and it sits perfectly. It is exactly the same as an early mk4 (before they lengthened the half shafts). I don't have a lowering block so if the spring is correct it should sit fine after settling in -
I use the claw end of a claw hammer with a bit of cardboard or whatever is to hand to protect the wheel. Not an original tool but works
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Probably just a poor modern repro sender. When I rebuilt my original 1147 engine I put a new sender in, started to get very worried when first run as the temp gauge went way too high but all felt perfect. Sourced a new old stock temp sensor and problem solved.
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I would say a you want more than 1/8 slack to enable full lock.
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The steady pin passes through the brake back plate, through a hole in the shoe, then the spring goes on followed by the cup washer which twists to lock in place
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I'd also put new seals in the master cylinder and check the rear hoses/cylinders. There's nothing worse than bleeding the system only to find a leak from somewhere else a few weeks later. Plus lets be realistic if the front hoses are perished there's a very good chance the rears are old too.
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Spark plugs firing every time the coil fires
DanMi replied to NickinSussex's topic in Electrical System
Don't forget modern repro parts can be bad out of the box, so just because the distributer cap is new doesn't mean its not the problem. I would try a known good cap and rotor arm if available. -
The standard hardtop on the MK2 has 2 bolts that fit through the screen frame into captive nuts in the top with a full width rubber seal between screen cap and top. There is also a bracket that mounts either side and fits into the hood stick tubes, then a long bolt fits up through the stick tube into the bracket. Then 2 bolts through the rear deck into threaded plates (these won't be used on the Ashley)
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I would check out what is going on with the pushrod tube 3rd from front. These cab be an absolute pain to seal anyway but there appears to be a nut forced in
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Yes the herald block is identical. The wat to tell is as Nick said the valves, If they have collets at the top they are spit, if the valve caps have a sort of figure 8 which the valve clips into then Herald. If you also use the mk3 spec cam and twin carbs then you would basically have a spit engine.
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the 307170 on the rear matches my spare 1147 MK2 spit head
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The MK3 cam was fitted to the late Mk2 spit (I guess that should be the other way round), so should fit. Cam bearings were not always fitted to small journal cam engines. I have an early mk2 spit block in which the cam runs directly in the block and a late with bearings, the late mk2/mk3 spit cams fits both. So any small journal cam will fit. late mk2/3 is 65/25 profile.
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That is an older version of the manual better if you have a roundtail. The later one is probably better for the later cars. You can't beat a factory manual though.
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really depends on how easy they come apart. In a perfect world they can be done without removing the hub, just undo the lower bolt pull apart and replace. However back in the real world you may need to cut the bolt which may be easier if dismantled further.
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that is correct
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Oddly enough mine first registered sep 1966 was also black and it looked original (had 58000 on the clock when I got it in 1990). I have now done it with the club gold as I have always been told that this was original.
