Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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Doug - Wallpaper scraper and hair dryer should work.
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Tony - Thanks for the endorsement on that. I'm going to put either the service kit or a new one on my parts list. As long as it does the summer, I can take my time over the winter when its too cold to do the paintwork. so much of this has been new to me and I would (as normal) not have been able to sort it out without everyone's input. She is now ticking over and revving up nicely in the garage and I will see what happens on Saturday when I next go out. Will try the Italian tune up for the backfire then. I finally remembered the problem which caused the last backfire problems, the choke wasn't coming off at the carb when pushed in. Lubricated all the linkages and will see if that sorts it. Now, as long as she keeps starting/running, back to the plot. Fuse box next, along with that bl**dy leaf spring farce. -
Thanks Johny, much obliged.
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Not sure which is the correct pump or repair kit for mine as the engine is from a Herald 13/60. May just get the cheap non return valve to try and if it solves the problem think about sorting the pump over the winter.
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Colin - I vaguely remember those pumps Johny - I think the non-return valve on my fuel pump must be shot. Doubt if I can repair it. Never realised til now that it had one. Failing that, for the cost, a small cut off tap between the filters looks to be the best bet or maybe one of these.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inline-One-way-Non-return-Check-Valve-Fuel-Gas-Air-Vacuum-Aluminum-6-8-10-12mm/163664093802?hash=item261b23e26a:m:m2HtjcUbjnMtQ6YrmRmd_6g&var=463120832013 I will keep an eye on the situation while the tank is full. Like so many things, I am probably more aware of problems now than I was when the car was running 20 (odd) years ago.
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I eventually used Silentcoat under mine. Did use that thick fibre stuff but it pushed the carpet into the seat basket and stopped the seat sliding back and forward. Also found that after getting wet it disintergrated to dust. When I looked under the carpet, no insulation just brown yuk. A bit weird.
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Pete - I now see it like you. The fuel evapoates/drains from the float chambers, float valves open, air gets into the system so fuel syphons back to tank. I'm sure the tank vent us clear as there was no vacuum when I filled up yesterday. Not sure if there is a correlation between the level of fuel in the tank (it was holding 2 gallons, so quite low) and the amount of run back. I will get a fuel tap for when the car is not to be run for a few weeks. Is this something other members has found and why is the fuel draining/evaporating from the carbs, is this normal?
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So perhaps a fuel tap between the disposible filter and the engine filter may stop the 'back syphoning', or one in the boot out of the tank.
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Thanks Tony. Sorry to hear you have similar problems but 'you are not alone'. I'm sure that the problems starting up were due to fuel. None to begin with, then flooded. I know the car doesn't get used as much as it should, but checking the carb float chambers after a 2 to 3 week layoff is a bit of a faf and it knackers the heads of the screws. Any ideas anyone? As for the misfire, could there be too much oil in the dashpots, did I put too much oil on the rotor shaft (just a wipe), or did I move the vacuum advance screw when I was dusting!! The carbs and timing were set up last summer by an old style, classics owing garage (not the one that fitted the leaf spring) and has run beautifully, until I started 'servicing' the car for the MOT. I really cannot think what else I could have b*ggered up in the normal run of the mill checks.
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Tony - Thanks, I'm sure the Spitfire tank works by syphoning the fuel through a pipe out of the top on the tank so it wouldn't run back. I'm sure someone will correct me. In the meanwhile I had an entertaining afternoon changing the oil with an idea of changing the sump gasket (Herald 13/60 engine). Undid 15 nuts, then found how difficult it was to get to the 16th!! 15 nuts back in. Had a brand new sump plug from JP. Lovely thing, magnet nice large nut head, so much better than the one I took out which was once square headed. Yes, you know where this is going because there was a thread about this a couple of weeks ago. New one, dead posh, copper washer, straight sided thread... doesn't fit. Find the old one (taper thread, oval head) put it back in. Fill with oil (don't mention the brand/type) and back where I was 3 hours ago, but much muckier. At least its raining so no gardening... shame.
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Yes it does. I had this problem when I recommisioned the car and we had this conversation about condensers then. She was OK until I started messing. Could I have disturbed the vacuum setting or something similar when I was wiping over things? I still have worries about the fuel disappearing from the filter. No leaks, no smell??
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She runs!!!... and I have know idea why. Late last night I decided to try one last time but with the electronic ignition (old SX1000 Sparkrite) set to 'conventional' instead of electronic She fired up first time. Turned off, turned in. This afternoon started up first time again. Thought... switch to electronic and she will die... no, continued ticking away happily. So I have no idea why she wouldn't start yesterday unless it was something to do with the fuel, which I outlined earlier. Just got back after going out for petrol. no great problems apart from Kangeroo-ing a bit with gentle back fire when accelerating. Couldn't run hard due to traffic problems but revved hard when I got home with no problems. So there we are. Its a classic!!! Any offers about the back fire.. timing, fuel blockage.. plugs, points etc all cleaned etc. Yes, I know, I should have left the engine alone but there you go. Definitely no rotor in the diff today!!!
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Yes - Mostly Triumphs!!!
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Sorry Pete - I think that I am using one of your old keyboards on this computer!! Thank you all for the correction. Looks like my old, addled brain has confused one problem (leaf spring on diff) with rotor in Dizzy. Glad to have brought some humour to your day. No Tony, you didn't make the day any worse. However..... drum roll... I may have found the problem, but, I need to check it up later this morning.
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On the list for tomorrow when the battery is fully recharged
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Tony - Wish I was still blond not grey. Just checked the plug leads again 1-3-4-2 anti clockwise when looking down on the diff. Try again tomorrow. Thank you for the tips folks. Even if it don't run, very grateful for the thoughts.
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I have checked this so many times, even considered having put the distributor cap on wrong. Off the to garage to check again. Maybe its one of those things that it is wrong and I just can't see that its wrong. One of those things where your mate comes along and just switches it on.
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The annoying thing is that, apart from what I mentioned earlier, she ran beautifully 10 days ago. I must have disturbed something, but what? Only took off the plugs to gap and that was connector off, plug out, gap, and back in/on. Learned my lesson after the last time. Not messed with the advance/retard.. guaranteed for me to get it wrong. Burned inlet valves... were OK 10 days ago with no obvious problems. She was running like a dream, just a bit fast on the tick-over but that was on my list of things to adjust. Surely the new light relays won't affect anything. I did run the feed off the battery/solenoid contact prior to fitting the new fuse box (that now seems to be light years away). Will go through the usual routine tomorrow, spark at the plug, contacts OK etc etc and report back. It could just be the old electronic ignition has died, but not enough battery power left to try it in conventional mode. One thing that I will mention is something I brought up way back. The visible petrol in the see-though fuel filter appears to disappear after a week or so and the fuel in the carb float chambers, the same, so I have to turn over a fair bit to pull fuel through before firing (if it does). Is this just normal evaporation, leaks, or drain back to the tank, the feed from which I thought was higher than the filters etc and worked by siphoning. Problems.. some hobby.
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Changed the header caption for the moment to "Teach Me To Twiddle". The whole rear spring/headlight relay/fusebox/mot is currently accademic as she now won't start. Was going to go out for petrol and warm up the engine to change the oil but no joy. Same symptoms as 18months ago when I had the plug leads in the wrong order but that's not the problem this time. Engine turns over, smell of petrol, wet plugs, then flat battery, blows back occasionally through the carbs. Not done any proper investigating as battery still charging. What have I done that could have caused the problem... checked and gapped plugs and breakers, topped up dash pots (engine oil), tightened fan belt, fitted headlight relays, everything else is none ignition/electrical specific. Not been a very good two days!!
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This definately explains the 'lean' front to back of the spring and also one side of the body being slightly higher than the other as the spring will not be centered left to right. Caster/camber will be out too.
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Thanks for the kind thoughts Wayne. Will bear everything in mind after the strip down and refit. Will document it here to help others, like others have helped me. I have noticed that the spring appears to be sitting at a slight angle across its width (narrow part). Would this be due to a location stud at the bottom sitting on the plate that shouldn't be there, or is the stud at the top. What a c*ck up especially when you are supposed to trust professionals (!!!) and they did my MOT. Worrying isn't it?
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Thanks Colin - Between Pete and you, you have convinced me to strip out, check for damage and put back together... carefully. Then check height, camber etc and take it from there.
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Yes, I read about moving the grommet etc over and making a larger hole. Just wondering about the best way of adding anything extra like an additional power feed to the cockpit without making a total rat's nest of connections, but it looks like its not too bad. As usual, probably over thinking the problems so nothing nasty happens when I set to with the cutters and hacksaw.
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Michelle - Thank you. The name is a tribute to a very dear departed friend.
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Ok, thanks. I'm looking at the 90 degree female lucar connectors either crimp or solder (preferred),to give a little more space behind the 'glove box'. Also thinking of adding a cigarette lighter connector inside the 'glove box' to power phone, tablet etc. Probably off a perm live link. Did you use piggy back connectors for anything or just one single per connector blade?
