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Badwolf

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Everything posted by Badwolf

  1. So, according to the post counter, this is my 1000th post, so I will use it to post the final details of the damage done in the gorilla (sic) warfare against my suspension. I have decided to bite the bullet and not go back to the garage as it was nearly two years since they butchered the job. I will (thanks Doug) get some replacement parts from Canleys and know that the job is safe. Took off the box retainer and found this... and finally this (I have not yet taken out the crush tube)... I would appreciate your comments and, as normal, any words of wisdom before I tackle the damage. I assume that to fit the plate and bolt tube, I have to disassemble the spring and carefully put it all together.. properly before offering it back to the car.
  2. Badwolf

    Favourite tool

    Ok til the magnet comes of when you are searching... how do you retrieve the magnet. Saw a guy at the Tatton Car Show (Cheshire) over the weekend selling one with a super power magnet, what if you push it in and can't pull it out (Pete/Doug - don't even think about thread drift on that one!!!).
  3. I have a old school work bench. Made out of beech, 6 foot square with a record vice at each corner... yes four of them. Unfortuately it was a woodworking bench so the vices are not too good for steel, or flattening quarter inch steel plate (see nose to tail thread) but still very useful.
  4. This one on fleabay looks just the same... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-LEAF-SPRING-TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-MKIV-AND-1500-1972-0n/322215286506?fits=Car+Make%3ATriumph|Model%3ASpitfire&epid=550067965&hash=item4b058716ea:g:PcIAAOSwExJXofAr And this one too https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-MK4-1500-Leaf-Spring-Camber-Rear-Type-B-Negative-NEW-TT4413N/173645368139?hash=item286e120b4b:g:G8AAAOSwHNxaKppU
  5. So, back to the plot and the leaf spring mentioned earlier. The first thing that I noticed was that only one of the screws on the access panel above the spring were doing anything... good start. It gets worse. Unfastened the eye bolts and drew out the four bolts holding down the spring and retaining box and found this... At first glance not as bad as I expected Until you start to look closely The retaining box is off center and the plate was fitted under the spring and not through it (well spotted Pete). You can clearly see the impression of the stud in the plate And as for the plate ... which I doubt that I can flatten easily.... in order to get it through the two spring leaves. I am in two minds as to whether to take it back to the garage that fitted it and moan or just do my best to make good. I have not yet unfastened the nut holding the box onto the spring until I have decided what to do regarding the garage that fitted it!! I was unsure about the clips holding the spring leaves together but other photos on the net show the same layout. There must be some reason for this, but it looks strange.
  6. TNT welcome to the home of great info. When I was in your situation 30+years ago, I went to my local car spares shop (store) and bought a large adjustable spanner (wrench) that would fit the big pulley nut at the front/bottom (forget the Anglo/American translation from here on!!) of the engine. It was bought for the one job of turning the engine over by hand, but boy has it been useful for other things too.
  7. Just what I was hoping for from you all. This forum never fails to impress. So, its 'can of worms' time Gentlemen (and any Ladies reading - of course) do we like these units and is the SX4000 worth trying for its silly price, assuming, of course that it give no improvement other than a better spark, less wear on the points and a smoother ride. Not much to ask I know, but I'm sure that you will all rise to the challenge and that views will be mixed.
  8. Colin - Yes... that was the reason I fitted it in the first place. Now I remember!!! Looking at the stupidly low price of the SX4000 (currently <no pun intended> £29.95 on the SimonBBC fleabay page) I think its worth the investment to bring the electronics up to date, even if I'm wrong about the misfire. The thing I liked about the SX1000 (and now the SX4000) is the ability to switch back to conventional when (not if) the unit fails. Much easier than some of the other units I've looked at. I suppose the low voltage thing on the points is just like the relay to the headlights that I have just fitted, which I thoroughly recommend (thanks Doug.. I believe that I read it first from you), especially for under a tenner. Mark - Many thanks for your insight.
  9. Not sure if it doesn't increase the current to the plugs, so better quality spark and stuff. There must be some good reasons for it!! Since I fitted it, all those years ago, the engine does appear to have run smoother with better fuel consumption, or may that's what I believe due to the marketing hype. Maybe Mark and the other electronics types will advise us.
  10. Ignorrant question coming up... can someone please describe 'pinking' and why it us called that.
  11. Just the job. Will get some cables ordered and get on with it. While on the subject of electrics, I think that my ignition problems mentioned earlier in this thread are down to the Sparkrite X1000 electronic ignition system which I recently praised so highly on another thread, also pointing out that my praise would put the kiss of death on it!! Went out for a good run yesterday with a view to being able to put my foot down and got an intermittent misfire. The beauty of the X1000 is the ability to switch from electronic to conventional which I did on the way back and suddenly no problems. So I'm now looking for a replacement, an X2000 or X4000. Has anyone got any experience of either of these. I don't want a permanent fixture unit as I want to be able to switch back to conventional in the case of the failure of the electronic unit (just like this case). Yes, paranoid I know, but the provision of switching helps settle what piece of mind I have left!!
  12. Thanks everyone. I noticed when fitting my headlight relays that the original earth (black) wire was a little thinner than the two feed wires. Earth = approx 2mm, feeds approx 2.5mm overall dia. Is there a technical reason for this and is there any point/advantage in replacing the earth with a thicker wire, while I am messing about with this? I am looking at using 2mm wire in everything that I upgrade, is this just overkill and, on the whole, would 1mm be as good. I can handle a soldering iron, but when it comes down to V=IR etc and working out loading, cable thickness, power requirements etc, not so good!!
  13. Hi Craig. Congratulations on finding the forum and welcome. You will get loads of help here... just ask, or use the search function. A lot of problems have already been solved here, they can be a little difficult to track down sometimes so don't be afraid to ask.
  14. Thanks Mark. Can you explain tri-rated please. I am looking to get some lengths of cable to match the existing colours for when I do the fuse box. Especially for extra bits like a cigarette lighter socket, so I can identify in time to come. Thanks Clive - Got the fuse box from them through fleabay, never though to look at their other stuff (doh!!).
  15. Does anyone have a link for good quality auto cable. Something that is coloured with a trace colour that will also take a bit of current, not like the .5mm thinwall auto cable on fleabay?
  16. Hi Kelvin. Welcome. If your questions aren't covered here, ask more. Thats what people here do best. The answers..... may not be exactly what you expect... thats the beauty of this forum, its like no other.
  17. Using Tesco Momentum at the minute. She seems to like it.. when she bothers to start (see Nose to Tail thread)
  18. If this is fradulent then the scammers have photographed another car V864XNVwith a current mot history
  19. That's it, we should start a recipe thread. Go for it Doug?
  20. Sounds more like 'Desperate Dan'.. for those of a certain age.
  21. Have we got two thread running about fitting Polys to an ARB?
  22. We have touched on lube for bushes with various thread drifts (!!). When I spoke to one of the Polybush team at the NEC restoration show in March, she said only use a smear of washing up liquid to prevent the formation of a grinding paste. Other here have used numerous other rubber greases, so its try it out and hope for the best. What ever 'slips' your boat so to speak. I mentioned to her that R*****s had tried to sell me some sort of grease when I ordered my Polybushes and she went over to their stand to sort them out. I made a hasty exit!!!
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