Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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Would pu be strong enough to hold the door window rubbers without clip? Save a lot of agro dropping clips inside the door skins.
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I remember the caretaker at my school shovelling coke into the heating system. It had a very singular smell.
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Isn't that part of the recipe for Coca cola??
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Assuming that Canleys and other suppliers no longer stock the full range of rubbers/seals/furflex/rear window seals etc, for hardtops, can generic subtitutes be found at trim specialists like Woolies or do the club stock things like this by the metre? Not started research on replacing mine yet, but I know that all my rubbers etc are well past it and thought that as the subject has come up, I would enquire.
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Welcome. Lovely looking Vit.
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Thanks Doug Tom - If you pick this up... thank you for all your hard work.
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Thanks everyone for your help and concern. I think the latest plan is now: Strip paint, either manually or with stripper Treat rust as needed Brush/roller 2k epoxy primer x 2 Fill dents as needed Reapply 2k as needed to rub throughs etc and Flat Mist coat and Flat Primer and dry flat (although I might flat the 2k down to P1200 and omit the extra primer if things are going well as it was damp in the zinc oxide primer that caused my problems initially and I don't want the same to happen) Spray Top Coats. After several weeks to allow the paint to fully harden off, final flatting and cutting compound finish Making good any extra damage and extra flatting down as needed using progesively finer paper etc etc. Still got to get the doors (se earlier posts) to fit properly yet!!! -
Yes, I know about the problems related to 2K products and assumed that 2K thinners would have the same risks.
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Great stuff. Please pass on my personal thanks to Tom.
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You should always clear your history and cache files on a regular basis. Stops unwanted files being stored and slowing your machine, or possibly displaying (as in this case) out dated info/file formatting. It might be worth considering putting a message in the masthead of the home page advising users (especially those who are not using this forum) to clear their cache etc etc to prevent them having the same problems. We don't want to put casual users of the site off using it in the future or even putting them off the club with these minor teething problems.
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Thanks for that Pete. On the subject of refreshing the screen, on a desktop hitting the shift (could be control) key and f5 together, should reload the files directly from the source, not from your cached info.
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Paul (68V) - Ha Ha. Brilliant and clever. Yes, tried Google but not very good. It goes refer to use with hardener from what I can make out so gives the impression that it is 2K. I will find out when I try to use it. As long as it doesn't start dissolving other things. Mask and gloves to start with I think. May just send the Russian link to Akzo and ask them. Just though someone might have a similar solution on their garage shelf.
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I used to know a computer systems engineer. He wrote two web sites for me. It took an eternity for him to get them to his satisfaction so I know the difficulties, time involved and problems of getting it, not just done, but right. His view was always, test it on the end user before release because if anyone can break it they will. He was also of the opinion that a computer expert knew how to do it, but the user was the one to find the flaws. I am full of admiration for the writers of the revised site, it is not something I would even think of embarking on. Any comment on my part is as a user and are personal likes/dislikes. If they help in the future I am pleased, if they don't.. I can live with that. As for the outage of the sites two yesrs ago, that was before my time but I can imagine the annoyance of the users. As for the CoM of the day, then there was probably the same reaction to the invention of the wheel at that time.
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Agreed, but you tracked down the work around solution for us all. Thanks.
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Thanks Clive. If the thinners really is 2k I was thinking of using it for cleaning tools after using filler, 2k primer (brushed), and other 2 part stuff. The writing on the can doen't give much of a clue about exactly what it is and the AkzoNobel site is useless. The only web references are written, I think, in Russian!!
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I agree with Pete, who I didn't realise was a tech guru as well as mechanical. I still have problems with the moving graphic background on some/one page, no 'home' key (have to go to 'the club' or click the site 'mast head' to get back to the tssc.org.uk entry page) and there is no search routine that I can find, but these are personal niggles. The new layout is a great improvement.
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Here's a strange one for all of you with old cans of .. well, whatever is in your garage or shed. When an aquaintance heard that I was preparing to repaint the Spitfire, he gave me a can of what he described as 2k thinners. The can is very rusty and says that it is Sikkens 363 Autocoat BT thinners. Have any of you come across this in the past, what is it, is it only useful for cleaning tools or just lighting the bonfire!! I can't find anything in English on the internet, but it is made by AkzoNobel, but nothing with them as yet
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Yes. I saw that one. Very brave pushing it outside, so were his dogs. Also saw the footage from the German burnout. Not really encouraging me but I suppose it's a sign of of the modern era. I feel a bit like Uncle Bulgaria of the Wombles. "He could remember the days when he wasn't behind the times" !!
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Didn't I see a report about a Tesla battery going up in flames and it burned so hot the fire team couldn't extinguish it and left it to burn itself out? Could be interesting if a container load of them, all linked together had problems. Last year when a school's solar panels went up in flames they decided not to replace them.
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Same here, mind you I appear to have a permanent tab open.
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Yes. Cling film over the hole then add the lid, seal tight. Also a good move with any type of paint. Also do NOT return POR15 back to the can. This product doesn't dry, it cures like silicone by absorbing moisture (would you believe!) and returning paint which has been exposed to the atmosphere for any length of time will set the paint in the can rock solid,
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One a year, you spoil them. Is that like changing the car when the ashtrays are full (in my case with receipts and toffee wrappers!)
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Re POR 15. There are mixed reviews around the forum but most are positive. Although POR (acronym for paint over/on rust) is good it is advisable to get rid of/treat any rust before starting. Also follow the instructions regarding cleaning/degreasing and prepping. I went into their sales counter and was shown an old motor bike cut away petrol tank which had been treated on the inside with their tank sealing product and on the outside with POR15. The young lady then attacked the outside with a large spanner denting the metal (which already had many dents) to show how strong and flexible the paint was. I believe that it is difficult to overpaint POR15 after the original coat has cured, and I have heard of cases where a second coat has pealed away due to not abrading the original coat sufficiently. Hope this helps in someway,
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Dot 4 hydraulic fluid, on purpose to strip paint
Badwolf replied to daverclasper's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
Synstrip is exactly what I have got. It said on the advert, only to be used by professionals. Didn't say what type of professionals? Bodie & Doyle perhaps (joke for those over a certain age... pauses to consider bigger thread drift!!!) ? -
Dot 4 hydraulic fluid, on purpose to strip paint
Badwolf replied to daverclasper's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
V23- Thanks, will be outside and taking care. Just checking on the best way to do things before I actually start. Not used anything this dangerous for either skin, blood or lungs etc before.
