Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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Michelle - Welcome to the forum. I fitted loose type carpets to my Spitfire but there are members who have used both loose and moulded. I will be interested in your thread as I am going to renew mine sometime this year.
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Chris - I am having terrible trouble with my rear spring as it appears that the garage that fitted it has made a right mess of it. It started with an MOT fail due to a broken spring which turned out to be a Mk3 spring on a MkIV Spitfire. It had been running like that for a long time, so it may be worth stripping down the rear suspension to have a look at exactly what is in there. You may just find that the wrong parts have been fitting way back! -
Pete - Wheels off again this morning and a careful look and poke around. You are correct, what appears to have been done is that the plate which is supposed to go between the bottom leaf and the second has been put across the top of the diff under the whole spring. then the top box (saddle) has been bolted down on top bending the plate. The whole assembly is now too 'fat' for the 'saddle' piece, to sit down on top of the diff, hence the gaps and also why the plate is bent. With the advice from you and Colin, I now see what the garage has done. Even with supplying the manuals etc!! I cannot see whether the rubber mounting pad has been fitted at the moment but it is listed along with all the other components on the JP bill which, I must admit, I didn't check off with the contents of the bag of bits (yes, I know), as I was in a rush to get the parts back from Chester to the garage and also didn't, at that time know one part from another. So, yes, it will have to come out and the plate straightened and put back together properly. My question, short term is, is it safe for the moment as I need the car for the weekend and am worried that if I have problems, it may not go back together in time!! It has done 400 miles as it is at the moment. Should it be OK for another 40 miles, or should I take the risk of stripping it down. Is it possible that the garage has put the spring is back to front, even though there should be a locating peg or 'front' marked on it somewhere?? At least they didn't put it in upside down. No pressure, and I respect that you are doing this by 'remote control' and the final decision of what to do is mine. I am still mindful of the stripped threads on the spring eye bolt, mentioned earlier in this thread. That was down the to same garage!! Thanks in advance. BW
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Chris - Can't help you with the door but someone here will help. That's what happens here and why its such a popular forum.
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Weird, has your seat been strained for some reason. They should be a mirror image of each other. Are they recliners by any chance with one set at an angle?
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Used Towergate then. New for old. When I asked them what allowance should I make for 2nd hand stuff bought off ebay they said we don't work that way, list everything nicked and send us a list with 3 quotes to replace. Absolutely gob-smacked.
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I had a d10 (not a 10d), it was like a brick. Then some toe-rag walzed with that and 2 x 10ds lens and most of my other kit. Cost the insurance a hell of a lot that day. Make sure you're insurex new for old. Its worth it. The great thing is that you know how to use them too. Stunning work.
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Mark - Nice, I have been using 2xCanon 5d mk1 for the past few years. Nice but not as nice as the various 1D models
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1980 TR7 DHC rolling restoration - bye bye!
Badwolf replied to Colin Lindsay's topic in My Triumph Restoration Project
Colin - Don't worry, you're getting there slowly..... but not as slowly as me and I've only got the one car to play with. -
Colin - Yes what has been fitted looks just like your photos but with gaps between the bottom of the saddle shaped top fixing plate and the plate which goes between the bottom leaf and the next one up. There is also a lot of difference beween the amount of bolt thread showing, on the two that I can see,
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Pete - Sorry but I have managed to delete my previous post asking about this possibly contributing to one side riding higher than the other. There shouldn't be a bent plate, unless the garage bent it when fitting, the whole assembly including the spring was new. So it looks like it has to come out and be put in properly. I was hoping that it may just have been a case of torquing down the nuts. The next question is how safe is it for the time being, seeing as how if has been like this for about 18 months? This is what you get when you leave a modern garage with a stack of spare parts a WSM & Haynes. This has become apparent after fitting the new polybushes and shock absorbers!!! I assumed that the lean was due to something that I had done. Since working on the back suspension I have become more aware of things not being quite right. It is a more comfortable ride though. If I have to strip out and refit the spring etc, is there any great advantage in replacing the rubber pad with a polybush one, while the spring is out?
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I found them to be something of a nuisance when I did my covers and after clipping the frame onto the lugs tie-wrapped the basket to the frame until the rest was fitted then removed them as the covers then held everything in place. I think I also bent the lugs a little more as they had lost their 'bend' with use and age. This may help - viewed from underneath with the seat tilted forward off its runner
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Thanks Pete - I believe that it is this.. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-159641 which sits over the leaf spring and is held in place by 4 studs screwed into the diff. I was concerned by the apparent gap at the bottom. Photographing it is not easy and I don't, at the moment, want to take out the back interior trim and the metal inspection plate at the moment. I did get the spring and the fitting hardware from JPs but it will take a little time to find the receipt with the part numbers. I do remember collecting numerous bolts/studs, the retaining plate, a flat plate and a few other bits and pieces as the spring that came off appeared to be from a Mk3. The assembly does look like the MkIv assembly shown here: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005746 Addition - Yes the Leaf spring is ref 159640, the 'spring box top' 159641and the rest of the hardware matches up with the parts diagram.
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GT6 diff/gearbox oil specs and recommended brand(s)
Badwolf replied to richhl's topic in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Colin - What on earth makes you think that it actually moves, never mind soaks... hence the hypoid analogy! THREAD ON HIGH DRIFT ALERT.... AGAIN!!! -
During my crawling about doing other stuff apart from the oil check prior to putting the car in for its MOT, I was doing the back brakes etc and while the wheel was off noticed this.... What you are looking at are two photographs both of the retaining plate (saddle) which holds the leaf spring to the diff. Due to the restricted space it was difficult to light and photograph both sides at the same time, hence the two photos. What concerns me is that there appears to be a gap under both the front and back of the saddle along with an uneven amount of visible bolt at the top. The new leaf spring was fitted by my local garage who did the original MOT at the same time last year. Do I have cause for concern or is this normal?
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GT6 diff/gearbox oil specs and recommended brand(s)
Badwolf replied to richhl's topic in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Colin - Do you want me to post you some of my home brewed beer. A bit of a cross between 99 octane and hypoid. -
Johny - Thanks for that. I didn't know you could get oil tested like that. Having had a look around the engine since my post, I think I will dump the oil and replace. I need to replace the sump gasket (weeping) and also the drain plug, assuming that the one supplied by JP fits as there have been problems with these on other threads. The old one is looking very much the worse for wear - more round than square. Just trying to save a bit of work and a trip to the recycling depot with the old oil. My Dad used to use old oil on his shed. Oily brush in one hand... lit fag in his mouth. Not these days!!! Thanks Pete - Always a voice of sanity and, of couse, practicality
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Ok, so doing a pre-MOT check service. Everything is going well at the moment (that's put the kiss of death on it) and dipped the oil to find that it looks clean with no muck etc. Now, as mentioned on other threads, this is Wilko's 'best' 20/50 which was put in as a 'flushing oil' about 18 months ago after the car was recommissioned, with the plan of replacing it after running the car for a 'season'. Now this oil has done 400 miles and, as mentioned, is clean. Should I just dump it and refill or leave it for the summer and replace after I have done more mileage, prior to the winter lay-up. Not a question of cheap, as I have plenty of oil in stock - just don't want to waste the time if replacement is not needed
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Probably very very true!!
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Interesting...... I always worked on the premis that a noisy exhaust/silencer was damaged and needed replacement and was an mot fail. Only now do I find that you can choose the degree of noise with which to annoy everyone. For me, the quieter the better so I can hear the sounds of the country with the top down. Not the grinding noise of someone's exhaust, especially my own. Sorry but old age does breed excessive grumpyness which doesn't fit any manufacturers silencers
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GT6 diff/gearbox oil specs and recommended brand(s)
Badwolf replied to richhl's topic in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
So much for modern 'liquid engineering'. I'll stick with the old, tried and tested stuff until someone with good engineering expeience on day to day cars, posts something different. -
To be perfectly honest I get a bit fed up with reading stuff about modern oils, classic oils, vegetable oils, mineral oils, science, tables... blah blah. If 20/50 with extra zinc stuff is good enough for Practical Classics (July 16 issue) then it will do for me. I put it in, drive it, change it, recycle it and repeat as needed. It's done good for me with all sorts of cr*p, for 45 years so if it worked in 1972, I reckon it will work now. Everyone to their own, I want to spend time driving not comparing oil top twenty tables, that a. I don't understand and b. Don't give a stuff about? Sorry.
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I recommisioned my Spit with Wilko 20/50 as a 'flushing oil' 18 months ago with some sort of additive to boost the oil (molyslip, duckhams or something similar). Just about to replace with that 20/50 that Fuzz Townsend flogs, only 'cause I got it for a good price on fleabay and it appears to be well recommened by forum members here. It's a very personal choice though from cheap and cheerful to bl**dy expensive and all points between. I expect the engine to outlast me, even with the cheapest oil!!
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Been like this for 30 years (!!!) and still can't sort it!!
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I have a similar problem one of my HS2 carbs (the front one) as the it wont return properly off the choke. Returns ok with a poke but not with the linkage. The back one is fine. Ended up disconnecting the linkage to the front and just starting with the back on choke. Does tend to jump about a bit/back fire until warm. Tried to get an old school garage to sort it but they said it would need a full strip down, reset etc etc and it wasn't worth it so just live with it!!! Any thoughts would, as ever, be most welcome?
