Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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Yes, I saw the digital ones. New to me. I did wonder how good they were compared to the mechanical ones. I suppose you could even use one on a mechanical torque wrench which was set slightly above the intended torque, as a sort of belt and braces approach. Excessive but might work. I assume that there is a huge difference in quality/accuracy depending on the price, -
Maybe we should all form a syndicate?
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"I have an electronic ignition system that is 30 years old and still working perfectly" the man said. Two weeks later @@!!!???@@. Yes lets all tempt fate together.
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...but, is the quality of the steel in the new studs as good as the worn studs that come out. Are you putting in new cr@p in place of worn but probably better metal? These and other similar questions will never be satisfactorily answered and carry on the discussion of 'rubbish new parts'.
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Yes, but it would have all that knowledge that we all rely on.
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I have enough in the boot to strip down and fix alot of stuff along with a haynes manual. Wish I had the knowledge to fix all those things. Still, at least with a Haynes manual, any young breakdown person has a reasonable chance of getting me going as I suppose the WSM won't be on the computer. Maybe the club shop could try to clone and minuturise Uncle Pete to fit in a tool roll. That would be a best seller? Hummm!!!
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No Sons in Law, and my mobile phone is usually flat. Power supply socket high on the list with fusebox mod!
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Depends on who did work on it!!!!!!
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Thanks John. Just what I need. Will try it out when I have a suitable weight. I know where there is an old fashioned large scales weight which will do very nicely but can't get it til next week. What is there in a torque wrench that can go wrong? Mine is a 30 year old Draper.
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As an end to the spring farce (I hope), and I think I may have mentined this before, but how can I check that my torque wrench is accurate. The reason I ask is that when torquing up the nut at the base of a shock absorber, it appeared to take a worrying amount of force. To that end, thinking that I might strip the thread or snap the bolt, didn't put enough force on the wrench for it to click. Any ideas please.
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I think that was Stella (excellent value)
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I have both, plus a heavy duty hydralic jack. I keep a scissor jack in the car, but its only for emergencies. I agree about the limited travel on a bottle jack along with the danger of oil leakage if it falls over.
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No, not in this case. I might as well have done it from scratch in the first place. Not had to pick up the pieces after 'professional' motor engineers couldn't even be bothered to make basic checks with the WSM and Haynes that I left with them.
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This has been one of the worst days of working on a car in my life. Started off well with this... .. ready to go in... which it wouldn't. After considerable huffing, puffing, and other stuff it went in, eventually. So 4 bolts into the diff.. oh yes. Doug was right, the box thingy must have been distorted by the gorilla. Eventually got them to go in but wouldn't go in all the way... spring not sitting on the diff properly. Take it out again and file more of the burr off the pin thingy. Back in again. Bolts back in but won't go in all the way. Fiddled and messed about for hours, yes really, and somehow got them to in in further. I should have ordered new studs as these appear to also have been gorilla'd. One sticking out a little further than the others but discretion as I did not, on any count, want to force it further and, with my luck at the moment, snap it. Then had a major fight refitting the spring eye bolts, shock absorbers and radius arm bolts, all of which I took off eventually after realising that shot cuts were not going to work. So, 7 hours later, she is back on all four wheels. Although the wheels are still as dropped from the jack, that is not run to settle the camber, the rear wings are both 26 inches from floor to highest point. Maybe a little high but I will let everything settle. I do not intend doing it again unless something totally disastrous happens. If anyone has a MKIV Spit and a tape measure could I trouble you to measure the highest point of the rear wing arch from the fround please so that I can compare with mine. Thanks Thank you for all the input, and hopefully, I can now get on with the next bit.
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Ok. That's the job for the morning. Just a thought. This spring is now going to be sitting half an inch lower than it was before I took it out (the thickness of the plate that was bridging the diff plus the thickness of the bottom spring that locates in the diff channel that was sitting on top of the plate. It will be interesting to see the final height of everything.
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Now, the next thing is, obviously, to refit the spring. What is the best sequence of fitting the bolts/nuts to make the job easier. As I see it there are 5 steps after replacing the spring assembly: 1. Fit spring eye bolts 2. Fit studs through spring box to diff 3. Fit nuts to studs 4. Tighten nuts on studs 5. Re-fit bottom shock absorber nuts but what is the best order to make the job as easy as possible? If you have a super easy assembly method, would you please share!!
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Not to worry. Its all back together and, for good or bad, given a light coating of waxoyl to act as a grinding paste for the future. Interesting this spring has a 'heritage part' sticker on it, but the bolts appear to be metric - still no worry, apart from it having 3 nylocs and a standard nut on the straps. Looking to fit a nyloc from store was how I found out as my UNF nuts (don't start!!!) don't fit. I have added spring washers, probably not needed apart from the paranoia with this job. Will photograph for the record tomorrow and fit if raining (otherwise its gardening). The off centre nature of the original gorilla installation maybe the reason why one side was higher than the other, as Pete mentioned earlier up this thread. I will be interesting to measure body height and camber when its all back together. Thank you all... as usual for your advice and support.
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I put my new headlight relays on and left the huge length of spare cable taped up under the bonnet while I went for a run to check things out. Of course the tape gave up and I ended up with 2 yards of cable dragging along the road. Thankfully no damage and the cables have now been trimmed up neatly. Teach me not to rush things.
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Thanks Wayne. Not to worry as at 10am this morning there was a loud thump in the hall and the metal plate and other bits that I ordered from C@nleys arrived, 22 hours after ordering it. Exceptionally good service. Things are starting to look up on this job, at long last. Is there a front and back to the spring and is it important. There are no stamps or engraving marks that I can see. The Haynes says that the front is 'ground', but I don't see any differences.
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Not really considered it as this spring was bought in August 2017 from JP. It was delivered to me and taken in its wrappings to the garage who had mot failed the car as the previous spring had a broken leaf. They fitted it and passed it for mot. I noticed something strange (see earlier postings) when I replaced the shock absorbers and found the disaster chronicled, earlier today. So, no, I was not going to replace the rubber inserts at the moment as they have only done 400miles, but thanks for thinking about it for me. Having said that, I actually did replace the spring eye bushes with poly last year along with the shock absorber bushes, so on second thoughts, if you have a link for the polybush buttons, it may just be worth a look while everything is all over the garage floor. Can't find any on first look through.
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Saw DT on telly this morning with what appeared to be a member of the plane cabin crew judging from her uniform... mile high club???
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Thanks Wayne - I think I will have to disassemble the whole unit or at least slacken off the clamps as, as you can see from the photo on the previous page, the gorilla with the hammer has knocked all the spring leaves out of alignment and they probably now all need 're-stacking'.
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Don't give me ideas about what to do with the morons who butched my rear suspension!! (See nose to tail thread/disaster list!!)
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Pete - Why does my spring and those on fleabay have the extra bracket. I would have thought that four or 6 symmetrical but not five (apart from Doug's idea). As for the washer, sadly I don't weld but a couple of loose washers, one on either side should sort it. Not sure about hand pressing the plate as there is a large nut thingy to get the plate over, hence the hole in the plate. It may be easier to disassemble the spring especially as the leaves have been knocked out of alignment by the garage's attempt to force the crush washer in. While I have the spring out, is it worth waxoiling/dinitroling it?
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Really. just making out the order to Canleys. Trying to think of anything else that I want at the same time. Usually thing. Will rember half a second after pressing the place order key.
