Gary Flinn

Very Sad news indeed Chris It was only last night that I was reading the Graham Robson Herald/Vitesse Book and I had actually reached the final chapter, which is all about the TSSC and mentions Paul. It was Paul who put the Advert in the Exchange and Mart way back in the Summer of 1977 regarding setting up a club for the small Chassis Triumph Models, the rest is history. His vision will live on in the TSSC Condolences to his Family Regards Gary

I had 185/60 x 13 Tyres fitted to 5.5J Alloys on my first Vitesse Convertible way back in the late 1980's The car stuck to the road like glue in the dry but was terrible in the wet, especially the back end The Tyres I had fitted were the old Goodyear Eagle NCT's, so I'm not sure if it was these that caused it to be a handful in the wet or the profile of the tyre? I fitted 175/70 x 13" Uniroyal Rain Expert tyres on 5.5J Rims to my last Vitesse, sold in 2015 and this was a good combination in both the Wet and dry, a better ride quality too Just remember you still get some camber change even with the Roto-flex rear suspension (3 or 4 degree's at a guess), although no where near the amount of the earlier Swing Axle set up. Regards Gary

Inch and 1/8th I think?

Paul Yes, I live in Ripley so quite local to you, are you in Denby Village? You will have to come to one of our Local Derwent Valley TSSC Meetings, not sure what's happening for the June meeting but if you fancy a run out on the 18th we are attending the new Museum at Ambergate, the Great British Car Journey also on the 19th of June it's our Peak Run, a 70 to 80 mile ride up around the Peaks Regards Gary

Found this by doing a Search on here "Thanks to you both. It seems remarkably difficult to find definitive references but....are they.... "small one" 1/4 UNF. 28 tpi, od 0.25 in / 6.35mm "large one" 1/8 BSP, 28 tpi, od 0.383 in / 9.7mm Next on my list of confusing issues, parallel or taper thread for the BSP version? Can anyone confirm?" I believe the rear Hub ones are the smaller 1/4 UNF

Paul This should Help? https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum.tssc.org.uk%2Ftopic%2F7189-vitesse-bonnet-hinges-what-goes-where%2F&psig=AOvVaw1tettTX6RTNp3GZ6p7-mNN&ust=1652800336081000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAoQjhxqFwoTCJjlrpmn5PcCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD Regards Gary

Pat The Canley Classics Website has some useful tips on how to set up the rear Hub End float if you plan on replacing the wheel bearings, here's a copy and paste Note 4 "Replacement wheel bearings should be re-shimmed to give the correct end float/preload. In most cases replacing the equivalent shims and spacers from the old unit will give an acceptable result but if the hub has been replaced or the unit assembled from parts, then the following procedure should be followed. Fit bearing cups into vertical link. Fit outer race and outer shell into vertical link. Fit hub making sure it is fully down. Fit inner race. Put spacer and shims in place - measure across bearing inner race with straight edge and feeler gauge such that the hub and shims are 0.001 - 0.002 higher than an inner bearing race. Fit outer axle shaft fully home and tighten nut to 90ft/lb. You should feel VERY slight play - if you can feel end float, reduce shims - if preload, increase shims. When correct, take apart, grease and fit inner seal. One final word of warning, don't assume that every garage (even classic car specialists) is capable of rebuilding roto wheel bearings. We have seen some shocking bodges over the years carried out on customers stuff brought into us after recent work by 'professionals'. You need to assertain that who ever you trust your rotoflex with has a proven track record with the stuff, is regularly practised in the art, and has a ready stock of shims/spacers, etc before he attacks it. You have been warned!" With regards to dismantling, ideally you will need a Hub Puller to remove the outer Hub/Bearing assembly, although I have seen the Outer Driveshaft drifted out with a large Hammer and a Brass drift, but a puller is better. The Mk2 Hubs are not as tight a fit as the earlier Swing Axle hubs which definitely need a Triumph Specific Hub Puller If your not planning on changing the Wheel bearings and the end float is current set correctly, then reassembly of everything is in the same order as removed, including any Spacers or Shims You will need to Press or Drift carefully the outer Hub/Bearing back on to the outer Drive Shaft as there is an Interference fit on the splines (Don't try and use the large Nyloc nut to pull the hub into place or you are likely to strip the threads!) In fact check very carefully the condition of the thread on the outer drive shaft and the condition of the Outer Hub if you are swopping the Bearings Good Luck and keep us posted Gary

I work in the Electrical Contracting Industry, and in our Panel division they use extensively Crimped connections on their Control and LV Distribution Panels, some with Currents of up to 1,600 Amps with no issues? The important thing is to use good quality Ratchet type crimpers (I don't trust the usual hand type) and also use the correct size crimp to suit the cable size, for a car most of the Crimp Lugs will be either red 1/1.5mm sq size cables, Blue 2.5mm sq size cable and yellow 4/6mm sq size cables. The problem is our cars are usually fitted with Imperial size cables, so knowing which crimp size to use is a bit of guess work which is not ideal, although there are charts which cross reference between Metric/Imperial cable sizes? Another thing is the modern type Crimp lugs in Red/Blue/Yellow colours always look a bit messy and out of place I think on an old car There are issue you can have with soldered connections too in some situations, I think the original Looms on our cars had a combination of crimped and soldered connections Gary

I agree, the SE and some of the very last Dolomite's made were fitted with these Spitfire steel wheels which I think are 5J Width, presumably fitted to use up what they had left at the end of production? Gary

That looks a gorgeous Mk1 2 litre in my Favourite colour too Then just like buses another one turns up? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394062333959?hash=item5bbff20807:g:xdoAAOSwo2didTa2 Fitted with Over-drive a sunroof and the original carpets, seems a bargain

Patrick No Problem, I had saved all the relevant information anyway One thing to bear in mind is to make sure the rest of the rear suspension is in good order, in particular the rear Wishbone Trunnion Bushes/Bolts aren't seized and also the rear Spring is serviceable with no broken leaves. Good luck and let us all know how you get on? Regards Gary

Hi Patrick Here's a link to the Company I got the Koni 80-1717 Dampers off https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwimyPCjodL3AhVLZcAKHV4ZBu8QFnoECA8QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Flarkspeed.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw0L9ZbmPjxxsHPFFR4_Z9v1 PS - I have replied to your E-Mail with all the Info on how I fitted them to my old Vitesse? Regards Gary

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284791126936?hash=item424edfbb98:g:i5kAAOSwGuViPyg2 How Much?!!😮

Colin This must be one of the most frustrating and time consuming bodywork jobs on the Small Chassis Triumphs? When I was rebuilding my Vitesse it took an age to get the Bonnet to fit correctly, although it didn't have any major work done to it and hadn't been in an accident (So far as I could tell). A few questions 1. Have you made up new adjustable slotted brackets to mount the bonnet to the front Over-rider Brackets (They look new in the Photo's?) I made some up in slightly thicker Stainless steel with a longer slotted section, can you extend the slotted part on yours? 2. Have you any idea if the car as ever been involved in a frontal accident, if so you may just have to compromise and get the best fit you can 3. Have you got the tensioning springs fitted both sides, these affect the fit of the bonnet no end, if you get it correct without them, then fit them, it then won't fit! I know there is conflicting information about if the slotted part of the 2 pairs of adjustment brackets go at the bonnet tube or at the over-rider bracket on the front bar, are you sure you have these the correct way round? The Body fitting notes show slots on the bonnet tube end (I can't remember which way I had them on my car) I'm sure you have seen the Standard Triumph notes on Body Adjustments before, but worth a read again as attached? Keep at it Regards Gary Herald, Vitesse Body - Svc Trg Notes.pdf

How about this beauty? https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1447006 There can't be many one owner Vitesse's left these day's.

More great Rally Vitesse photo's Mike, keep them coming👍 Gary

I've been re-reading the Excellent Herald/Vitesse Book by the Late Graham Robson whilst off work suffering with a Chest Infection, there is a short chapter on the Turn Left for Tangiers run Apparently they needed around a gallon of water per day for each person whilst crossing the Sahara, what with the additional Fuel, Food, Etc required all the cars must have been well over-loaded! It would seem from the write up too, that the Heralds were more reliable than the back up Atlas Minibus & Standard Companion Estate!! 😁 Gary

I managed to pick up some N.O.S. ones for mine at one of the shows, I paid about £5 Each I think. The originals are pre-drilled with the fixing holes, they go up to and slightly cover the door seals if I remember correctly Gary

Martyn Yes 2 number needed (1 per side) They are actually polished aluminium, fitted with Countersunk self tappers into the top of the inner sill/floor pan, about 6 per screws per retainer Regards Gary

They don't look too bad According to the Body Fitting notes the gap between the vertical edge of the Bonnet and the doors should be 5/16" (8mm) The gap between the rear edge of the door and the 'B' Post is tighter at 3/16" (4.8mm) Attached is the PDF on how to get things fitting correctly on the Herald/Vitesse Herald, Vitesse Body - Svc Trg Notes.pdf

Yes seen that clip before, still good to watch it again though😀 I wonder if the car survives, no MOT or Tax history shows up so probably not☹️? Gary

This is a Don Hood Co. Mohair Hood. I did initially have problems with it being slightly to wide, but a phone call to Don Hoods was all it took for them to sort it for me FOC😀 Regards Gary

Have you tightened up the bolt that holds the gear lever to the linkage? It's also important you get the Bolt the right way around, or you can struggle to get reverse gear (the bolt/nut catches the remote extension) Some of the recent re-bush kits are not very good quality at all Gary

The Oil feed from the Camshaft scroll at the rear nearside corner of the Block goes up via the Head to feed the Rockers and is notorious for leaking? If it's not too bad (which it sounds like it isn't) I wouldn't worry about it. Gary

Ok, I may well see you then. I'm actually going for the Sunbeam Spares Day which is outside on the same day, I will certainly have a look around the 2.5 Pi's attending and the other Rally cars too. Gary