Clive

Time to invest in a rev-limiter? Just a thought...(having succumbed myself at Goodwood with predictable results)

Liking the sound of the engine being ready......Just wish they painters would hurry up, I want to see/hear the car on the road, all "finished" Have I mentioned I get impatient?

Worth checking the bearing tightness too, they can settle.

Nice! Soooooooo much better than the skinny studs, those m12 really inspire a bit of faith that the wheels will not make a bid for freedom.

IIRC between the races there is a wide slot so you can get a screwdriver, or better still some sort of drift or cold chisel or bit of metal (so you don't mangle a screwdriver!) and use a hammer. A bearing puller will not work on hub bearings from what I can make out, they are for pulling bearings off shafts. To reinstall a hammer and bit of wood, ideally hardwood, and tap the bearing cup in, working either on opposite edges, or flat across the bearing cup. . .

Just checked out teh c40L dynamo. Seems to have a 20A output On main beam with sealed or halogens, you will be using about 18A, plus 1A for rear lights. So bang on the limit.(once you add ignition and anything else) Add a heater motor and you are discharging teh battery, but only very slowly. ie you have about 12-24 hours of driving in the battery. However, how often do you drive significant times/distances on main beam? And have you ever encountered any issues? I doubt it, as this is how it was factory supplied. Swap to an alternator and even a little 27A ACR gives you more charge, I use a baby denso 40A on one car and a uber-reliable 20 year old ford 95A one on my spit. (really ought to swap it to a small one, save a couple of KG!)

Should be written on them? However, maybe that has long gone! But I have never seen a sealed beam that is significantly different to a 55w halogen (in fact sealed beams are often 60w filaments) Many people say you need relays. You don't, as the current draw is the same. Another however. Even on std sealed beams a relay IS a good idea. It takes the load off the switchgear and will make you lights a bit brighter (less loss)

I have used the slotted shims used for the front wishbones/camber, work a treat. I suspect they may have been used from the factory as well!

lips are sealed.

Indeed GT4 has been used a few times before, but yours is far from being a GT6 with a 4 cylinder engine. So Gt4 lightweight is perfect. If people do not understand the lightweight bit they won't appreciate anything about sports cars.

Replacing the fusebox like for like is very tricky. Mainly as the wiring loom runs through a hole in it. One way of fixing it is to replace with a Mini fusebox and the existing wire terminals (which double up as the fuse holders) are replaced with 1/4" spade connectors. Or indeed a bigger fusebox as above. And if feeling good about that, add a few relays......

The car was doing a lot of autotesting and autosolos at the time. Last thing I wanted was understeer. As Pete points out, Triumph never used a front ARB with the courier spring (though possibly/probably because they saved money on something that was "just" a van). And using the logic that a thicker ARB was used with the late spitfires as the swingspring was softer and allowed more body roll, working the other way a stiffer spring needs less front ARB (in my case zero) Should add the front springs were 440lb, so substantially stiffer. Car was never harsh (nor indeed refined!)

The courier spring has less arch to it. I fitted one to my herald estate, plus a 1" lowering block at the same time. And removed the front ARB. Car handled brilliantly, much better than with the estate spring. Yet would still carry heft loads (well over 1/4 ton of sand etc) in the back

Check out exactly what you do need to convert to OD, it is quite a list if sourcing parts individually. You can buy a complete conversion reconditioned, but sit down when you get a price! Used conversions do turn up, but again check what you get and what is needed to complete the conversion. All said and done, I have driven long distances without OD, but at a steady 60mph+ the od is a lovely addition and just feels better. Compare it to driving along the motorway in 4th rather than 5th in a modern car. If you intend mainly shorter drives and quieter/slower roads, I wouldn't worry so much.

I would say a good idea, many modern cars use a shroud in the same way. In fact, I use a golf electric fan that came with its own shroud (on the rad) and it is brilliant, It just makes sense as the fan will not be pulling air from all around, but almost totally through the rad. Downside is that leccy fans can work flat out even at idle, something the mechanical fan won't be doing. But it has to help. I would consider making a 4 sided box to fit on the rad and back to the fan, then a plate over that with a fan-sized hole in it. Allow plenty of space for engine movement. Template in card, make up in sheet ali and attach to the rad. Nice mornings work?

Forget the tread, it is more how little grip they have. I still have the scars from that lesson (plus a few bits of the car that was written off)

http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,1225394,page=3 Wade through that if you wish, but your instincts are correct! You are getting rid of the spring, replacing it with a solid arm and bushes, and then adding a separate coil spring. Kerching, pockets empty, no change to suspension. Best changes are the simple factory ones (unless a complete redesign) For a spitfire/gt6, swingspring plus bigger front ARB Herald/vitesse courier rear spring plus 1" lowering block (and ditch the front ARB, just like the factory did) OR swingspring if you can get one that isn't too low. More complex, rotoflex conversion, best with CV joints these days.

You are correct. Paint will cause havoc in those areas. Tolerances are much less than a single coat of paint! Be careful about getting too much paint under nut/bolt head areas too (otherwise when tightened it will appear tight, but the paint can fret and it ends up loose) With teh front suspension upright, I would be tempted to reassemble all the bolt together bits (not the hubs or callipers) and paint as a unit. How are you cleaning it all? electrolysis works really well and causes no damage to good metal, and requires very little effort. (youtube/google is your friend)

Does iy have a solenoid on the starter itself? sort of a small can shaped bit on the side of the main motor? The battery cable will attach to this. On a GT6/vit etc started the starter is a single unit, no bulges or attachments. Chances are then the engine was fitted to your car they swapped all the bits over from the previous engine. The thicker saloon flywheel may have caused clutch issues (when I used a GT6 flywheel on my 2.5 with a 2.5 gearbox, the clutch was a nightmare!)

Doubt you will find a new one. Besides, I reckon it already has a vitesse flywheel on your car, unless it has a 2000 type starter (you can't use a GT6/vitesse etc starter on a 2000 flywheel) If you buy a recon engine or anything else it is usually supplied without flywheel. It is like manifolds etc, a part you swap from one engine to another. 4 bolts and it is done.

The flywheel will swap from your car. You will need to swap frontplate (mounts and PAS if fitted) and backplate. The sump is different too. But while sump is off you can easily check the crank and all bearings, very simple to do. Out of interest, when the owner says good compression, I am guessing that is "feel" as no starter is fitted? (all above are assuming this is for a 2000. If not just swap flywheel, but I would check the bearings and thrusts as a matter of course while the engine is out)

No, adjustable shocks are very useful IF that is what you need, but many people just want shocks that do their job properly. That means the cheap black (I think they are marked Armstrong, who USED to be good, just like monroe and others, but I suspect the name was bought and used on the cheapest shocks they could make) shocks should not be on the shopping list. Worth keeping your eyes open and ears to the ground, NOS shocks do turn up. Usually availability is good at the Stoneleigh spares day. Shocks should come with new bushes. And beware ebay sellers and others selling front shocks that are missing the spring platforms.

http://s545.photobucket.com/user/marcusaurailius/media/GT6%20%20Suspension%20%20Modifications/BILD0782.jpg.html Pinched from Marcus (he with the shag-pile GT6) pics And this from Nick Jones http://club.triumph.org.uk/uploads/wheel_studs_7493.jpg Shows the difference!

You won't regret it, especially when you compare the old and new. It is horrifying! Front hubs may need to come off (can't remember) and at teh rear you can knock the old studs out, but the new ones eothet need hub off (a PITA) or drill an access hole in the backplate and grommet after, which is an agreeable solution! Don't forget to get a nice set of nuts. VERY easy to buy, ford/rover/etc etc etc etc and you can buy the flash "tuner" ones too, all for not-a-lot

I am not sure it is. Libel is only if the statement was factually incorrect, which it seems it isn't. And I am a little unclear of what can and can't be said on forums. Some have a VERY blunt approach, both ways. But they tend to be the forums that only exist in the ether and are not linked to clubs directly, so maybe they have better protection from prosecution. Clubs all tend to be risk averse, which is probably wise. But it is frustrating when somebody can't post saying " the ganglepin I bought from ******* didn't fit and was of the wrong grade steel, and the replacement was the same" as that info would be helpful. I notice too that the TRR have a feedback form for parts quality. Slightly different approach to the issue! http://www.tr-register.co.uk/article/2015/01/0003/The-TR-Register-Parts-Quality-Initiative