Clive

Not too much happens under the car in a gearbox swap, certainly nothing too heavy. But I agree, those wheeled axle stands do hold a great appeal as they won't fall like domino's. And I have never understood companies being cheaper on the bay, where they pay commission etc. However, I have bought many things off there to save a few quid (often quite a few!)

So where you you support the spit? chassis or sills?

I think it may be a problem with where to put the "arms" I guess the obvious place would be up against the sill seam as that is the bottom of the sill box section (inner sill is about 1 1/2" inside that seam) However, I still use decent sized axle stands, and leave a stack of wheels/tyres under the centre of the car "just in case" plus it gets them out of the way. Well, until they are where you want to work....

Indeed, I can vouch for mikalor clamps. They just do not deform the exhausts like U clamps. Much neater too, and stainless ones are not dear off fleabay (I would recommend genuine mikalor too for a few pence extra)

Use the reverse light supply. From that to od inhibitor switch, then od switch (gear knob of column) and then to the solenoid. There shoudl be a fuse in teh reverse light circuit somewhere. Or, take a feed off the ignition circuit and to the inhibitor switch. J type does not require a relay.

Not to mention repairing wear in the backplate and the lever arm where the contact points are.

Yes, they do need a box, but they are easily available for some columns, and I presume make life simple. No reason why it couldn't be done on any Triumph, Heralds have more space than a spitfire.

Sapphire blue? https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Sapphire+blue+triumph&newwindow=1&biw=1280&bih=899&tbm=isch&imgil=doYtM3Kxg8GrxM%253A%253BDCJ8TJ_WquhEUM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fclassiccars.brightwells.com%25252Fviewdetails.php%25253Fid%2525253D3952&source=iu&pf=m&fir=doYtM3Kxg8GrxM%253A%252CDCJ8TJ_WquhEUM%252C_&usg=__phKR2vXdU42FchVsokwux6OVOxw%3D&ved=0ahUKEwi_rZKslc_KAhUJWRQKHVoABqYQyjcIKA&ei=aW6rVv_UK4myUdqAmLAK#imgrc=_&usg=__phKR2vXdU42FchVsokwux6OVOxw%3D

I know the dolomites have them, but didn't think heralds etc did? But they use the same shoes (vitesse and dolomites) A chappie on the TDC has had a batch made, pretty cheap but easy enough to make. I got mine from him for my sprint axle.

I think I meant (in my other post) the suspension needs to be in the "running" position. On non-roto cars the handbrake cable run does what it should, and doesn't alter length over the suspension travel. The rotoflex cars do alter, so you need to take that into account and the cable appears a bit loose when the car is jacked up. Richard, I don't want to teach you to suck eggs, but is the handbrake quadrant lever thingy set correctly? And the shoes moving well? and the adjuster correctly set up?

Saturdays are the time I spend on the cars. You are always welcome to drop in, I have a Saturday regular here too. Who happens to be brilliant at all things mechanical, including gearboxes, diffs etc Drop me a pm if interested (I am close to Hove Park. Well equipped garage, many spares and a decent kettle)

3 years is taking the ....... Really I would expect under a year. On our cars many people do little mileage, and so are unlikely to wear out in the 7 year recommended lifespan. You have 4 years approx! Saying that, I was terrified at Spa last year when we were waiting to do the track laps. Lots of cars (I mean about half, possible more?) were wearing boots that were ancient. I was worried about their handling, so vowed to drive in clear space. Which I did!

And there are "magic boxes" to get the electric steering columns to work. There is a chappie building a mk3 spitfire who was fitting one. Scottie55 on the CT forum. http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1229790537/s-335/highlight-power+steering/#num335

So am I!

You need to put your location! But general tips. Warm them up, for a while so they are warm right through. That will help flexibility. Use some lubricant, tyre paste if you have it (doubtful) or slightly diluted washing up liquid. But that needs washing off immediately. Prepare the retaining strips well. Plenty of rubbing down/wire brushing and rust treatment, followed by primer and tipcoat. And then thin wax stuff in all the seams after. The strips are a notorious rust trap.

I too like the crystal lights. On my last spit, I changed from std sealed beams to the crystals with the cheapo supplied H4 bulbs. The difference was astounding, far more than the previous halogen conversions I had done. In current car they are also relayed and Philips extreme bulbs. I don't need the spotlights I fitted during the build...... (first car did LOTS of night rallies, which prompted the chage. Current thoroughly tested over 2500 miles on the 10CR on top of "normal" use)

I don't think there is anything to be scared of. The engine is dead simple. The gearbox/diff and rear suspension almost identical to the stag. The PI is the tricky bit, but afraid I don't know of anybody down here (but then again I don't know much!) the TRR have active groups in the south east and may be a better source of info?

your budget should get one OK, but don't hang about, prices are still on the up. And when the sun comes out.... All UK TR6's were PI, carbed ones are either imports or been de-PI'ed, which will affect value (by a fair old chunk) so you may get a better car for less money, but it will always be worth less (and frowned upon by some people) If teh PI is working well, it is great. If not, there are some people who are VERY good at setting it up. Many are not, so get advice from TR people. I don't think the club does inspections, but again there are specialists who can help you. Depends where you and/or the potential purchase are.

You have no viable alternative to a patch. Worth checking the main rails along the length, I did on my vitesse and found they were rotten. Hopefully yours are OK though. You want to find weak/rusted areas so they can be fixed, the worst thing is to "not touch it just in case it makes a hole"! Anyway, get recommendations for a welder, and yes, I wouldn't hesitate to drive the car. The welder will decide (maybe with your guidance) whether or not to repair or replace the front outrigger. New looks better, but it a bit more involved and a properly welded and treated repair will last just as long. BTW once all that is sorted, get some very thin Dinitrol or similar in the chassis rails. You may need to drill some holes to spray it in, but well worth doing!

Result! Garth has a knack of "fixing" things

The shocks are essentially the same across all heralds and spits now. If you want the best (arguable) then Koni. They are valved differently to spax/gaz and work better (apparently!) plus I have put my money where my mouth is! However, as long as you avoid the cheap black shocks sold by most, I would happily fit almost anything.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Yellow-Lucas-Headlight-Covers-Beam-Converters-Classic-Cars-x2-/151961213598?hash=item2361981a9e:g:8IYAAOSwqYBWpPEG If you want some, there you are....

You may turn a pair up off ebay or similar, but since yellow lights in France disappeared many years ago, I doubt they will be available from normal retailers. I have been using Gaffa tape for years, many thousands of miles, often at night, in Europe. Doesn't seem to be too much of a problem.

A courier van spring as above. Very good. Canleys say available to order, indeed there is a spring manufacturer (forget their name now) who probably make them on request, but I doubt it would be cheaper than going via canleys.

Garth is a good chap, and hopefully will be able to sort something out. Once all this is simply written down, it shows how badly Ivor Searle have acted. For their own sakes they need to sort the situation out.