johny
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Everything posted by johny
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Im afraid rapid wear of new engine and gearbox mounts is not unusual on many cars as replacement rubber components in particular can now be very poor quality. Wouldnt have thought your vibration is down to the damage but more like propshaft out of balance although I suppose that could be amplified by the other problems...
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First Classic - Spitfire Mk2
johny replied to RichTeaBiscuit's topic in I thought I'd introduce myself
They are a strange design as introduce many additional potential sources of leaks however I do wonder how the mk1 head weight compares with the later design🤔 -
Yes I think you'll make things worse trying a repair in situ but what about fitting a packer to move the engine mount a little further back to reduce the strain on it a bit more?
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Whack in an octane booster additive if the e10 is too low and you want to leave timing standard - Millers VSPe says itll give you lead protection plus increase octane and it certainly does something...
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Great, strange the valves stuck and maybe they would free up with some fuel through them or maybe its another example of poor quality replacement parts...
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Compare the set up you have with the manual cos as Doug says easy to get wrong! My drums went oval so would bind periodically each revolution - I could have just wound off the adjuster and had more pedal movement but I got them skimmed round as Vitesse/GT6 are quite expensive but probably not worth it on Spit/Herald as the drums are cheaper new...
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Yes the linkage has a couple of bushes which can fall apart so you pull the lever but not much happens at the other end to engage or disengage gears. The gearbox cardboard/plastic cover will need to come off but then it can all be done without removing the gearbox or getting access into the gears...
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Do they bind continually as you rotate the wheel or just intermittently each revolution? Side shouldnt make a difference...
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Wont be synchros but more likely to be a worn gear lever linkage which is external to the gearbox. The replacement bushes etc come as a kit and theres plenty on here about changing them👍
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could be cos my measurement is for CD150. Anyway that shouldnt make a difference for the blow test and neither should installing the casing unless the chamber overflow is blocked. This is where the air should flow out as does the fuel if the float valve doesnt close properly...
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Actually using it is good but obviously stuff will wear out quicker especially as some aftermarket components are not a patch on originals - suspension bushes, ball joints, u/js, steering column bushes, rubber components etc etc
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Yes is an improvement and I did main beam as well so hope its not too bright at night. One thing though, what happens with a dynamo if the ign light bulb blows?
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ok so you turned the carb upside down and meaured from the highest point of the float to the casing flange? I thought it was 18mm but maybe yours is different... Then with the carb the right way up you should be able to blow through the fuel inlet regardless of whether the casing is in place or not. If its blocked something is wrong☹️
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Go through all the electrical connections including earths - clean and protect? If it hasnt got one fit a paper fuel filter... And, if possible, use regularly but keep it a nice dry warm garage👍
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Im just changing my Vitesse jewel indicator repeater to LED (single front facing chip type) in an effort to make it easier to see in bright sunlight and I think I'll do the oil light at the same time. However wont do instrument lights, ignition light (cos dynamo needs original bulb) or main beam as its already bright enough at night.
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Oh Im going to miss all this so much with electric☹️ Wish Id been born sooner!
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Let us know the outcome Alan as all adds to the hive knowledge😂
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The symptoms are a bit strange so maybe if someone can confirm a way of getting the output shaft out in situ (your car has a swing spring so this might be easier) you can verify the condition of the bearing. Note: replacing the seal the bearing is normally renewed at the same time.
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The ouput shaft assembly comes out very easily by undoing the four allen head bolts but the problem is the half shaft is in the way and under tension. Really youll want to do both sides and clear out any debris from inside the casing so I would remove the diff and open it up...
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Check oil level first thing however there must be at least a problem with the seal. Alternatively the bearing may have failed and so the shaft can move and the seal leak. You could see if theres any play in the output shaft flange....
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Unfortunately any of these mods only changes the maximum pressure you can get not the minimum which is usually the more worrying☹️
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It normally either runs out of slave, into bell housing and out of the bottom to leave a puddle or out of master cylinder rod and down into driver footwell where it disappears into the carpets🤗
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Guilty as charged but I was a novice driver...
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Gt6 so different set up from Spit/Herald...
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Suppose it comes down to deciding between a nice fast cold idle setting but possible increased horrible rattle on start or minimise the tickover on the choke cam/knob to reduce it as much as possible....
