johny

Probably both👍

Cant see why anyone would chose a thread and bush system over a ball joint unless it was for cost. Maybe Im missing something but youve got two things to wear, a bolt that rusts in the bush, a thread that needs oiling regularly and then can even break off😮

Cant recommend anything but what worries me with vacuum is the possibility of pulling air in around the threads of the bleed nipple. I did one recently using a large syringe to pull fluid through and if I applied too much suction bubbles appeared from said thread....

Must admit I think the front trunnions are one of the worst design features of our Triumphs and cant understand why, except for cost reasons, ball joints werent used. I would do the modern conversion except for cost reasons...

But surely the original set up is also an open cage bearing and that gets an oil supply? I can see a bearing with built in outer race will probably suffer from lack of oil so how about this: tip machined to accept 12 x 15 inner race sleeve (cut to correct length). then fit 13mm long 15 x 20 open cage needle roller which runs in 20 x 24 outer race sleeve (cut to correct length and reduce OD (22mm?) to suit bore machined in input shaft)...

I guess you mean the centre punch marks just above the triangle which as Pete says is standard. So yes I think the engine must have been apart and someone wanted to remember where each piston went and put a number of punches to match the cylinder number👍

Thats possible but also have to bear in mind the axial movement of the mainshaft relative to the input so the races inner and outer would need to be wider than the bearing itself just as the original was🤔

yes dont think its something to change very often and now that, on average, our old cars do so little mileage probably once per owner is enough!

Hmmm looks like Mr Black there just installed the bearing without worrying about any lube implications. Its true the lube hole on many gearboxes comes out at the mouth of the input shaft bearing and possibly will be unaffected by the shaft being bored to a larger size but the fact that the new bearings rollers are now encased rather than exposed as in a caged bearing I feel could really stop oil getting in....

Trouble is if the input is bored doesnt the new bearing surface need case hardening again☹️

yes electric fans is quite a common topic and can generate strong views. The feeling seems to be that a standard cooling system in good condition can work perfectly in the UK with the original mechanical fan and that if you need additional cooling then something is wrong. Certainly its worth remembering that our cars temperature gauges will move up and down in use while modern cars (if fitted) have theirs fixed by the electronics and only change when theres a problem. Also if a high temperature is experienced on the move (more than 5mph) changing the fan wont make much difference as it wont increase the cooling air flow by much so the fault lies elsewhere. Saying all this some people (myself included) do just like the comfort of knowing they have the extra cooling available from an electric fan for when they are stuck in traffic. Mine also helps circulate air under the bonnet as well as running on a while after engine turn off which is when there can be a spike in the coolant temperature.

What does the stuff that came out look like?

Yes definitely should be screwed on as far as possible while leaving the range of rotation to allow lock to lock steering movement. Saying that cant see that a turn or two short would lead to such rapid wear of the thread...

I think that refers to rocking of the trunnion on the VL indicating play in the thread.... These will be pattern part trunnions and like many of the bits supplied now I do wonder how similar they are to original specification. Brass for example wouldnt be as good OR as expensive as phosphor bronze🤔

Yes of course in performance engines youre not worried about wasting a bit of fuel. My motorbike was brand new (2007) when I changed the standard exhaust to a more free flowing one and straight away it was popping and banging - cant see its misfiring....

Of course the other possibility is that one silencer gets better cooled than the other? The only thing with the unburnt fuel is that it hurts its not doing some useful work like making the car accelerate quicker😁

I thought brake pad squeal was characteristic on braking not on driving but I suppose the shims could help with both?

I thought the manufacturers set up (cam, carb etc) is done based on a certain back pressure and if the exhaust gases escape too rapidly then at the end of the exhaust stroke when the inlet valve opens fuel/air mix can be pulled through past the closing exhaust valve. This unburnt fuel then burns in the hot exhaust and produces the pop....

I think maybe one silencer is more restrictive than the other so the majority of the exhaust gases take the easiest route. Two silencers on a 1500 is a bit of overkill really and especially with a free flow manifold the back pressure will be lower hence the popping. This can make the mixture weak and push up full consumption...

Are these the correct bolts because I thought they would be the same diameter all the way along with no shoulder? The location of the flywheel is done by its fit on the crank boss and the dowl although the manual does specify the bolts are 1.06" long....

My manual says 3/8 for all 2L sixes except the MK3 GT6 which used 7/16. The clutch should be the same 8.5" size for for all 2L and 2.5 engines...

Heres the one from the free to download workshop manual and not very clear but I think you can make out the front mounting with the twisted metal strap (part 5). Either attaching to the bell housing or gearbox extension will have to be done from underneath the car...

Yes that clamp looks to be in a very similar position on the pipe to whats shown in my manual....

Ive just noticed that the same manual says the GT6 front mounting bracket is fitted to the 'gearbox extension bolt' and its located on the exhaust just AFTER the curve section that goes round the gearbox drain plug and not, as in the diagram above, before so Im convinced at least some Vitesse also used the same fixing point. To me it makes sense as that means the exhaust has the best possible support with fixings as far apart as possible (manifold and gearbox) to minimise the joint stress while the engine/gearbox moves around....

In my free to download Triumph workshop manual theres drawings of both Mk1 and 2 systems (neither is the diagram above) and the Mk2 does use a twisted metal strip for the first fixing. Unfortunately the manual doesnt say where this attaches for the Mk2 but the Mk1, which uses a different arrangement, bolts to the corner of the block sump. However by looking at the relative positions of the two systems fixings I would guess the twisted metal bracket of the Mk2 bolts at the gearbox iron case to rear housing joint....