johny

Apparently some engines do have a tendency to stop in the same place everytime and its why their flywheel starter ring gear can wear in one place☹️ Certainly worth checking everything else first though and then if nothings found remove the rocker cover after the engine has been left a long while and turn it by hand to see if a valve stays down....

wonder if a valve stem is a bit tight so it sticks open when left a while but luckily frees off when run for a bit....

well theres a radial oil hole in the input gear that you need to lube the needle roller bearing plus as that bearing is 22mm OD you need to bore quite a big hole to fit a suitable sleeve!

I wonder how the heat treatment of the bored out input gear surface is redone? I would have thought if you heat the whole thing again you run the risk of losing the hardening of the gears...

I think youve got it right in the photo. I know the lip definitely doesnt go the other way and hang out of the front but I vaguely remember having to cut the seal down because its an aftermarket replica which was nothing like the original and didnt allow the roof to fit! Could be wrong as it was a long time ago...

Yes that sounds reasonable Dave just dont get mixed up when rotating the dizzy body - anticlockwise when viewed from above to retard....

yes that looks ok, not quite as shiney as I would like but maybe its still got some oil on it? Bastuck seem to have the mainshaft in stock at 183€ including VAT...

Hi, yes Im afraid that is bad and quite unusual as Ive never seen one look like that before! Its very unlikely you can find NOS now and any used shaft will now be worn as well so theres really just two options left. Buy a new one, possibly from Bastuck in Germany, but be careful its dimensions are within the specification as shown in the workshop manual. Get the tip machined so a sleeve can be fitted for a new needle roller bearing to run on. However a lot depends on your input shaft having a good internal bearing surface?

I think the main question here is whether its recommendable to just whack in DOT5 without changing seals rather than it being a problem in its own right....

yes same on my mk1 Vitesse saloon but since boarded up👍

Your right! I havent had a problem so far but perhaps its not the best stuff then😲

I wouldnt disturb more than you have to as to get to the diaphragm youll have to disconnect at least one of the copper pipes and then get them to seal again afterwards.... A punctured diaphragm will allow fuel to come out of the bottom of the fuel pump and if this is not happening I would just check the body screws are tight, take off the top cap, clean the filter under it, check the cap screw has a gasket, replace the rubber seal and reassemble👍

yes I can see but there should be enough movement on the inlet pipe as it connects to a rubber hose so can fit the slightly higher position on the Paddock pump....

I think it looks very similar to Paddocks offering for you model: James Paddock Limited - Triumph Stag, Spitfire, TR6, TR7, GT6, Vitesse, Herald Parts and Spares Specialists. FUEL PUMP MK1-111 SCREW FITTINGS(208493) They also do a AC pump repair kit which looks like it comes with two types of seals and of course all the other bits (these might come in useful one day if you can then find them😁)

The manual does allow for some disc run out (its never going to be perfect) so to be sure you need a dial indicator. Dont forget it could be the hub that the disc bolts to so even a perfect disc wont run true. Also theres always going to be play between pins, caliper and pads as these components are not machine fits so if the run out is within spec I would get driving😊

I think the diaphragms, seals and valves are the same in all the pumps (not sure about glass bowl type) so the repair kit is universal. The seal will be just a flat rubber ring and they do harden up with age and shrink but not sure you can get it on its own. I keep a handy sheet of EDPM rubber from which I cut all sorts of seals and gaskets including for fuel pumps, petrol tank senders, petrol caps etc

Not sure thats all correct Mjit as DOT5.1 is glycol based (so as you say mixes with DOT 3 and 4) but this means it absorbs water like the others so should be changed regularly. DOT5 however being silicone based doesnt absorb water so can be left in the system indefinitely and I read thats why it has been taken up by the military...

But if bubbles are coming continuously then air must be getting in somewhere. Its when no bubbles come out and the pedal is still spongy that the tears start😁

I wonder if its pulling air around the bleed nipple thread? Could try press on pedal and then close bleed nipple before releasing pedal and repeat (probably need two people)...

I take it fluid pumps out well and with no air but then the pedal still doesnt operate the clutch?

Sounds like it needs a sliding scale pricing arrangement where the shop gets the full quoted price if finished in the agreed month and then a percentage less each month of delay thereafter😊

As I say if you can block the piston by bolting something across the slave's mounting bracket to restrict its movement and the pedal is then solid you know 100% nothing is wrong with the hydraulic side....

I think perhaps you need to go back to basics and discount things rather than keep changing components. What about unbolting the slave cylinder and seeing how its piston moves with pedal operation? You might also be able to clamp it to prove the pedal goes solid when the piston cant move. At the same time measure how far the clutch operating rod protrudes from the bell housing when the release bearing is manually pushed fully up against the diaphragm and compare this with the slave piston when in its rest position. At least this way you can conclusively determine if theres any problem with the hydraulic side of the system....

Yes the only way to guarantee no problems would be a custom made propshaft but as your mod has been done successfully previously theres a good chance you'll be able to do it one way or another. Let us know for future reference how it works out👍

Did you count 3 turns from the top of jet being level with the bridge ie just touching the underside of the air piston?