johny

That certainly sounds like rings but I take it you saw no damage to the bore when the head was off (a broken ring might score the bore)? How much oil did you put in for the wet compression test as you can be quite generous as it will drain away past the rings before next starting the engine...

Even for the 1200 as I believe the 1360 kept the same 3.75 ratio but of course had more power?

Also first gear ratio will be different going from 3.75 to 3.5 to 1 but not sure how much difference that will make to pull aways in your car....

I thought its not so much the anti freeze properties coolant loses over time/use but its corrosion protection which in most of our cars is the more important factor?

Yes it can be a useful modification especially if you have added a servo to the system as well...

You know it attracts the girls!

As I say it sounds very much like the brushes intermittently making contact because theyre too short. However your welcome to spend 200 quid instead of a possible 3 on new brushes: LUCAS 15 16 17 18 ACR BRUSH SET ALTERNATOR REGULATOR LAX31-322 | eBay

Rear left as standard and all works well but with less pedal travel👍

I suppose that could be tested racing car style by revving up the engine a few times before pulling away in the hope that the plugs are then clean....

Well you could try a replacement pump as theyre not expensive, are easy to change and always handy to have a spare as they can pack up with little warning....

I think theres three possibilities: The bearing between the input and mainshaft is partially seized and transmitting drive from one to the other. One of the gears on the mainshaft is partially seized to it so is transmitting drive via the laygear. A synchro ring is sticking to a cone so instead of releasing in neutral as it should it continues to transmit drive. Has the box been left a long time unused? At the very least I think you need to look inside and by rotating the input you should see where the problem lies. Then it could be worth filling with oil so everything is submerged and leaving for a few days to see if it frees off. However maybe its corrosion thats causing this in which case a strip of the internals is likely to be needed....

Thats it 0.7 and Ive now gone up from that to the 0.75 used on the last of the GT6👍

Check that the larger brake master cylinder from the 6 cylinder cars was used in the original upgrade to match the calipers?

Ive just used these to overhaul my clocks and refit which worked fine although bit expensive for what they are. For just the clocks to the dash you could probably buy lengths of rubber o-ring (dont think square section is easily available these days) and make your own.... TRIUMPH SPITFIRE, GT6, VITESSE instrument refurbishment kit, all seals (10). | eBay

This might be worth investigating a bit as the symptom sounds very much like poor brush contact, either through wear or being stuck in the holder, and hence the intermittent operation which may well slowly get worse. The brushes are usually pretty easy to get to, especially on an alternator as opposed to a dynamo, and you'll be able to see straight away if theres enough protruding to make good contact.... Dont forget to check the condition of the slip rings although these will usually last years. Ive just done this job on a 1998 Citroen with 200k on the clock and what looks like the original alternator. The slip rings were horribly worn but the owner was happy for me to stick in new brushes and away they went👍

Yes but also it maybe horribly corroded☹️

oh dear yes the wire connection piece crimps onto that plastic piece as it has to be insulated from the centre operating rod. Its probably still on the end of the wire which has fallen down inside the A post - should be able to find it from inside the footwell....

Sure its only going to be a matter of time before tyre age becomes an MOT thing as I believe it already is in Germany....

As Pete says good chance clutch will be stuck on even once you get the master cylinder working. Then maybe new tyres when youve decided the cars a goer and youre going to keep it?

Right yes must be the only way to do it but unfortunately the best cup needle roller bearing I can find is 18 x 24mm which is good for the mainshaft tip but rather wide so needs 5mm taking out of the input shaft bore diameter and then might risk oil starvation🙁

Ive always wondered about the big tip mod as although its relatively easy to machine out the input shaft what about then hardening the surface the bearing runs on?

What condition is the radiator in? The fins start to deteriorate over time especially on the front face and these do dissipate a lot of heat. The other aspect is how much heat is produced by the engine. If its running with a weak mixture, either through adjustment or additional air getting into the intake side, it will produce more heat which of course means the cooling system has to work harder...

So why do you want OD then? I suppose the need to have the strongest possible diff depends on how youre going to drive it....

That might have been done because the 3 rail box seems to be stronger in non OD form. In fact if youre like me, not a great OD fan, a 3.27 diff would probably be a viable alternative solution although this would require a speedo change/recalibration...

Thats interesting then, so if you have a 3 rail box with D type OD a Jtype should bolt straight on IF you change the mainshaft of course....