johny

Yes that setting is only an initial position and 2 turns down could be more like what you need...

The main carb problems could be the float level too high or choke stuck on? However a weaker mixture adjustment is a good first step...

It sounds like youre running too rich. The emissions valve is to keep the crankcase at a slight vacuum so when you remove the oil cap it opens more and allows extra air to be drawn into the manifold so improving the mixture. The same is also happening when you disconnect the valve pipe. If youre sure everything is correctly adjusted/working in the carbs I would try weakening their mixture...

To test spline wear just trying moving the two parts relative to each other (rotational and radial) in all directions and positions....

Couple of other things, is the sliding joint cap fully screwed on as I think this will change the length of the prop at both fully extended and closed. Also make sure that the u/js are exactly in line at each end because if some one has separated the sliding joint they might not have replaced it in the correct position and this can cause a lot of vibration...

The manual doesnt actually say whether the measurements it gives are between flange faces or u/j centres but presumably its the former as the numbers are fully extended 48.04" and closed 46.79". Then each car is different and your not going to know until everything is in place if youre going to need to move the engine forwards slightly. Remember the movement between engine/gearbox and diff is minimal so as long as theres a little axial float left on the spline (0.5"?) youre good. Talking of the splines how much play is there in the sliding joint?

Dont forget you have got position adjustment on the alternator so not critical to get the measurement millimeter perfect - just do the measurement in the middle of its range and as theres a vast number of belt lengths available there wont be a problem👍

Surprised a 1500 didnt already have an alternator! Anyway to ensure getting the correct belt the best way is measure the length required with the pulley in the right position using a piece of non stretchy cord...

yes and great for safe overtaking👍

Thanks didnt know that, bloomin Triumph! I still like the idea of one of those foot operated dip/main switches for the OD (seems more logical) but not sure theres enough room in the footwell...

no other difference (apart from the knob of course) but not a job for the faint hearted as even that exit hole is drilled at an angle....

Yes maybe the front seal as well (if its not a scroll type) as its very easy to do and only needs the bell housing paper gasket to finish. Also dont forget to check the wear of the input shaft support bronze bush tucked in the end of the crankshaft...

Trouble is, this box isnt in the car yet😁

well its not so much getting warm as not getting hot enough so that the moisture in the exhaust gasses from combustion can condense in the silencer instead of passing out the tail pipe. Its made worse by the fact that even with low sulphur fuels theres some which then combines with the condensate to produce sulphuric acid with obvious consequences. The car needs long runs at higher speeds to get the exhaust hot enough all the way along and is why I dont like starting mine while its laid up....

yes its not an engine where sludge from combustion products or emulsified oil can build up👍

Yes as I say in the old days when thousands of these pumps were being made it was economical to make a specific spring but now the production is very limited the manufacturer just gets the cheapest off the shelf spring they can find possibly from a washing machine or car seat😭

I think its both because any spring needs increasing force to progressively compress further so if the fuel pump's is only compressed a little by the cam and lever logically when released it will apply a lower force to whatever is resisting it (in this case fuel and the float valves)....

Hi, fuel pumps like many components for our cars these days have limited demand so there tends to be just one or two non original companies making them quite often in places where labour is cheapest. This improves availability and cost but means all UK suppliers stock the same items although they will of course each charge different prices. The downside is that manufacturing quality control can be lacking and obviously with this supply situation it can affect an item no matter where you get it from. In the end it comes down to which suppliers might handle problems best weighed against their prices and in my case its the latter that wins everytime...

Ive seen silencers like that just wrapped in a new outer skin which is welded in place. Certainly look ok and although of course the corrosion will continue inside unless youre going to replace the damaged internals youre no worse off. The back box which runs cooler and whose slower gas flow rate accumulates condensate is always the first to go - the pipes themselves should last years longer👍

good stuff though - probably only a water soluble version available now...

Wasnt Sealastik was it - manual says that fpr windscreens etc...

Yes has to be done right and I think with the proposed method it will still very difficult as the diff ratio increases the torque and also the axle acts like a spring which winds up so you need a lot of movement....

What I do with unlocated cooling system leaks is fill the system and then pressurise it while still cold with a foot pump connected to the radiator overflow pipe. Obviously you need to make up a suitable connection but then using the gauge on the foot pump you can take it up to normal system pressure. However dont go too much higher as the cap obviously wont lift so you could damage something. Also be careful when releasing the pressure after the test as although not hot the coolant can still shoot out of the filler if the cap is removed rapidly...

The hardest part is probably going to be undoing the pinion nut (especially in situ) unless you have an appropriate tool for holding the flange without damaging it...

I didnt think it was as long as that! Only has to come out far enough down to be hidden by the bag type (not rubber) gear lever gaiter?