I think the recommendation is to drive off and warm up the engine on the move. Certainly the higher the idle speed setting of the choke the worse any rattle is likely to be and it brings tears to my ears....
Youll have to guess which pump valve isnt working because if outlet youll need another valve between pump and carb or for inlet, pump and tank. Or just put in both new valves to cover the possibility the pump has two duff'uns....
No, rear tuck under is still possible but less likely if the back end is lower. A weaker spring also helps as it also makes wheel camber more negative...
As I think weve said before dont think a bit of rattle is too disasterous and engines can go on for quite a few more miles with it. However its not ideal and obviously revs should be kept to a minimum until the oil arrives👍
Chambers cant be emptied but I cant see why line cant empty back to tank once float valves open as its then contected to atmosphere by the carb vents and could syphon back to tank. If pump valves good it would be slow and might depend on tank fuel level....
Yes definitely not obligatory to have rattle on start so I think it depends on engine condition, choke adjustment which controls initial revs, oil filter and maybe factor X🤗
Theres already two one way valves in the pump so more shouldnt be necessary. Perhaps a fuel pressure check would good as we know the amount of contact the a pump operating arm has with the engine cam affects its output pressure....
Wow a rather complex and emotive topic! Only things to add are that obviously the cooler running your engine the less thin the oil gets. Starting rattle gets worse as oil pump and crank bearing clearances increase. For the first Ive put in a new radiator and for the second new bearings and oil pump both of which have helped a lot....
Yes something else to go wrong as was the case here😟 Also the relay might be drawing more current than the solenoid so the switch is actually working harder!
No grease on the polybush trunnions nowadays and not recommended for that lower ball joint conversion either. Perhaps if grease was used gaiters would be required to prevent a grease/grit mix? Goes against the grain but got to move with the times I suppose...
eBay do new sealed beam units at around 15pounds each but whether they fit and how good they are I dont know. Personally as other people cant see my beauty then I dont drive her at night, if at all possible, so have not felt the need to upgrade....
That should be pretty much identical to your existing box so no synchro on first gear but identical ratios and if needed most parts are transferable between the two👍
Suppose we need someone who has done the conversion to comment on how starts/hillstarts in a 1200 Herald compare before and after. I know my Vitesse would actually be better with a higher first gear ratio...