johny
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Everything posted by johny
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I like green as theres so few cars around in that colour these days....
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I know someone who has just bought a TR6 in that maroon colour and its not to everyones tastes but is so 70s I think its spot on👍
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Course its all academic really because you'll probably pay more for the 'right' colour now and hopefully just recover this extra later when the cars sold! However I know colour fashions can change over time so if you feel lucky you could buy an unpopular colour now which then becomes sought after in a few years and you can cash in👍
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Vitesse Mk2 - acceptable chassis flex?
johny replied to Phil C's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
yes Herald makes more sense really unless Triumph had come up with a lovely aluminium straight 6😒 -
J type OD in 1966 Herald 6 RA Relay Operation
johny replied to Lance Smith's topic in Gearbox & Overdrive
Definitely more current through solenoid = stronger magnetic field in it. You can try its operation it with a direct connection to see if theres any improvement... -
Hello from sunny Cornwall, new Herald owner.
johny replied to steveo's topic in I thought I'd introduce myself
Does look good, I take it was sprayed? -
Somebody went to look at it and persuaded the seller with an offer to end the auction and save the eBay fee. Happens all the time and if youre serious the best thing is to get to any item like that asap because from the sellers point of view better a bird in the hand etc etc....
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Think Ive just whacked them out before😲
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I always thought the pins are supposed to take most of the wear rather than the hinges so it should only be necessary to replace them, well, at least a couple of times. Of course lubing occasionally will slow this process a lot...
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Yes should be MkIV Spitfire. Are you going to do anything on it or just stick it in?
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J type OD in 1966 Herald 6 RA Relay Operation
johny replied to Lance Smith's topic in Gearbox & Overdrive
I believe J type OD didnt use a relay but was operated directly by the switch as the current draw is quite a bit lower than the original D type. Your wiring diagram would have been for the earlier type. Even so that shouldnt explain the intermittent operation unless the relay or circuit is faulty. You could try direct control but I suspect the problem lies with the solenoid or OD hydraulics as theres threads on here describing similar situations... -
Spitfire 1500 - Re-Living My Youth (RLMY)
johny replied to Pettifordo's topic in My Triumph Restoration Project
Unfortunately I just cant see it being external to the tacho. As Josef says it must be internal, probably dry bearing or broken return spring (do electronic ones have those?)... -
Spitfire 1500 - Re-Living My Youth (RLMY)
johny replied to Pettifordo's topic in My Triumph Restoration Project
errr dont think the engine runs yet (no battery) and the 'red light' is that switch on the right hand side... -
Yes apparently its such a horrible job that its hard to see anyone would have a decent yoke on its own. Theres a recent post on here where someone was very pleased with the shafts they got from Fitchetts after having yokes come loose on some after market replacements...
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Yes and get a quote first!!!! I know the job can turn out more problematic than expected but the garage have only got to call and let you know so you can authorise the extra cost or even go to see whats going on. As I say some people will spend longer mulling over which make of crisps to get than arranging an engine repair....
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Weber 40 DCOE, Spitfire Mk1 1147 and Standard Mechanical Fuel Pump
johny replied to Neil Clark's topic in Fuel System
Certainly if youve changed to a Weber then a different cam, head skim and porting would be sensible to make any use of it.... -
Weber 40 DCOE, Spitfire Mk1 1147 and Standard Mechanical Fuel Pump
johny replied to Neil Clark's topic in Fuel System
If not done yet you could carry out a compression test and check valve clearances so thats two things off the list. They definitely should be as standard although I suppose the cam might not be🤔 -
Weber 40 DCOE, Spitfire Mk1 1147 and Standard Mechanical Fuel Pump
johny replied to Neil Clark's topic in Fuel System
well you say it runs ok on the flat but not when pulling away up hills and I think gumming up would cause a problem all the time. However it is possible, like a few other causes, and you might stumble across the correct answer but I personally prefer a more structured approach to fault finding. This is even more important with a car thats new to me and I like to check each of the engine systems so I know theyre correct and can then be crossed off the list.... -
Weber 40 DCOE, Spitfire Mk1 1147 and Standard Mechanical Fuel Pump
johny replied to Neil Clark's topic in Fuel System
Dont know anything about Webers but I would have thought a good thing to check is its float height. This controls how much fuel sits in the float chamber reservoir and if low could cause starvation when on a slope but as Clive says with a non standard engine a specialist is probably required, at least for the initial set up ... -
A fuel pump that isnt up to the demand doesnt really show up on acceleration as the float chamber takes care of that so youre more likely to encounter it driving at continuous high speed up a long steep hill. Typically it'll start to misfire but if you back off for a while will then run well again...
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To be honest I think youre asking to get a nasty surprise if you dont keep a tighter control on a repair than appears to have been the case there. Was there no quote beforehand and then a regular update on the mounting costs? I would tell the garage I wont be paying anything extra that I havent authorised previously but I know some people, who sometimes worry about saving pennies in the supermarket, are then incredibly slack when it comes to large expeditures🤪
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Let us know what you find as hopefully it'll obviously be the dynamo at fault but as I say could just be the voltage regulator doing something strange and suddenly increasing the load of the dynamo. The squeak is probably the fan belt slipping as the load its driving goes up...
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Yes same applies and if you disconnect the dynamo electrically make sure to remove both its connections and dont let them touch earth. However the dynamo works in conjunction with a separate voltage regulator which can make it a bit more difficult to locate the fault. With the fan belt removed you can spin the dynamo by hand to hear and feel for any bearing roughness....
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yes thats the idea and it might even be worth disconnecting the alternator electrically as well to be completely sure thats where the problem lies. Its ok to run the engine just on the battery although of course it will go flat after a while but without the fan belt fitted it will overheat before then😁 However never do the reverse and disconnect the battery to leave the running engine powered from the alternator as this can upset the voltage control....
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It certainly sounds like the alternator so you could remove the fan belt and run the engine for a short while. Obviously the ignition light will be on all the time as the alternator is not being driven but at least you could see if the squeak and tickover fluctuations have stopped....
