johny

Brilliant and the operator now makes good contact with the ball? I think this is important so that if the switch 'relaxes' a bit with usage (like the old one?) theres still enough to ensure continued correct operation...

As Pete says discount all external possibilities first perhaps even getting the car securely up on axles stands and running it in first and reverse to try to locate the noise. However in the gearbox 1st and reverse gears are physically in close proximity so there could be something going on between the various components...

Bit strange Dave but maybe the fuel was evaporating quite rapidly so not accumulating on the plugs. How easily does it start normally in cold temperatures?

Thought the gap would be decided by the thickness of the quarterlight frame plus a little for the outer seal strip so both fit reasonably snuggly...

Hmmm this is a PI model isnt it so a bit more complicated. Does it misfire and hesitate when you get to 2500rpm? I think theres a few possible causes starting with: Gummed up injectors or metering unit. Loss of vacuum to metering unit so it doesnt dispense enough fuel - you could check the vac pipe and its connections for leaks.

Strange isnt it as I leave mine for ages, have not got a clean fuel tank (filter fitted though) and have a relatively new after market mechanical fuel pump but the carbs still stay dry - so far anyway🤔

I dont know about starting the car as then really it should have a proper run but just filling the carb chambers with fuel using the pump manual lever I think would help. As you say its probably difficult to find time to do this regularly but would it be possible to do it say 24h before youre going to use the car in the hope of disolving the gum? Otherwise maybe one of the fuel stabilising additives might be worth a try?

Yes that is a large gap although the manual does show 4 shims fitted. I dont like the idea of it being 'absorbed' as once set correctly the pedestal shouldnt change position! Youve got to be certain the gear is free or it'll get messy!

Ah I think youve already said the pedestal sits flat in which case you have to put a washer of measured and sufficient thickness to ensure that theres clearance to measure as in the drawing. There ithe washer is item 4 sitting between the gear and bush but it could be put, as has been suggested, on top of the gear so the pedestal sits on it. However with both positions I imagine theres a risk of it slipping off and falling inside the engine😩

Here you go. The pedestal 1 musnt clamp the drive gear 3 against the bush 5 as the gear must be free to move up and down 5 thou. If you put the pedestal in place and your lucky it sits slightly high, measure the clearance as shown and add 5 thou to the reading to know the shims thickness needed. If the pedestal doesnt sit high then you will have to use the washer method...

I think your operator could be straightened a bit so that it ends up further forward and then I would stick with the Canleys bracket but bend its top inwards. You need a vice to bend just the part with the hole in so effectively straightening the last bend below... How much does the ball of the switch have to be pressed to close the circuit?

Hmmm what a long winded story of his thrust failure but there are some good points: After the initial drop out of his thrusts and subsequent crank to bearing cap contact he deemed the crank still ok and put in new washers which in 150 miles had worn to a clearance of 45 thou but it appears they STILL hadnt dropped out. However we've been worrying about the wrong risk and its the thickness of the white metal thats most important. Its likely to be approx. 12 thou and once worn through the steel backing contacts the crank resulting in damage. Note even if this is all thats happened just replacing the thrust, as in the above case, is probably not going to work for long.... Unfortunately unless you know what the end play was when the thrusts were installed you cant know how much metal has worn off the thrusts. Basically youve got to assume the initial clearance was set to the minimum 6 thou and all the increase now measured has come off one of the thrusts!

So I guess its the bin for my little lot. Even the 3/32" needle rollers are special order from the far east and not available from normal bearing suppliers...

Im building up a collection of laygears with worn bearing surfaces but dont want to throw them. Sleeving them looks problematic as youve got to keep the end thrust faces plus the bore seems to be a custom size so anything you make and fit needs to be properly hardened☹️

Yes with a recently purchased car check gearbox and diff oil levels at the earliest opportunity as the capacities are small, leaks very common and damage due to lack of oil easily done....

Yes but no movement of the engine as a whole so you can fix your DTI to the chassis and measure the movement of the pulley as you press the clutch no problem👍

Any ideas for knackered laygears?

If possible I prefer sleeving of bearing surfaces as you then get a proper race which is through hardened and machined to very fine tolerance. Its what Ive just done on the mainshaft tip bearing of the OD gearbox Im preparing but unfortunately to do the same for its laygear is much more difficult (impossible?)...

no its alright as the clutch slave is mounted on the gearbox operating it shouldnt move anything other than the clutch thrust bearing and so through onto the crank and its thrusts. You just need to push the front pulley back, mount plus zero the DTI and press the pedal...

He says factory spec and that recommends 6 to 8 thou so reckon hes up to around 11...

We have a caged on the mainshaft tip and free rollers for the laygear and all would last much longer if they ran in proper inner and outer races as these would have a high quality through hardening. Ours run directly on quite large components that would be too brittle if through hardened and so are unfortunately only case hardened to a depth of a few thou☹️

Im really surprised because as both the mainshaft tip and layshaft have the needle rollers running on them directly I find that by the time the needle rollers themselves are worn the surfaces they run on are really shot. I have always thought this is because the needle rollers being a precision specialist component are likely to be harder than the other components. Its made worse by the fact the bearing surfaces are only case hardened (of varying quality?) and once worn through deteriorate rapidly. The layshaft can be readily replaced but the mainshaft tip is much more of a problem....

Why do you say that wear is accelerated? Is that wear of the thrust bearings or somewhere else?

I can confirm that copper grease isnt conductive as far as a multimeter goes anyway...

To be fair John this request from Dave was for our opinion and experience - we can all just read the manual for Triumphs recommended figures and of course theyre the best to stick to but this is not always feasible. Then as always the replies given can vary, and horrors sometimes even be wrong. so its down to the reader to weigh them up and come to their own conclusion with no come backs....