johny

Triumphs workshop manual is the bible. Can be found in paper or available to download free from vitessesteve.co.uk...

To add Steve, in case youre not sure, pinking is a light rattling/tinkling sound you can get from the engine and as Nigel (and Triumph) says you will hear this when accelerating in 4th on the flat but it should stop by the time you reach 2000rpm. Its usually worse the hotter the engine and if it doesnt stop then the timing is too advanced👍

I thought one of the great things with polybush was the stainless steel sleeve that avoided the problem of them rusting onto the bolt and having to be cut out. I would certainly be interested in any of the trunnion kits that has the original plastic bushes but with stainless sleeves so getting this benefit without the expense of silicone👍 Also David whats the way forward with the rotaflex bush kit now then? I think perhaps some measurements could be taken and a recommendation made that theyre not suitable for any car with less than a certain clearance between the wishbone and upright...

The steel tubes always rust on to the bolt but I cant see this being a problem (until strip down) as the bushes can still rotate freely on the tubes...

Thats an interesting point as I wonder how the crush tube length compares with the assembled trunnion? If its not slightly longer then its a clear indication something is wrong in the bushes/seals/plates because they will get clamped and mashed by the movement of the upright and wishbone...

I suspect, as Doug indicated previously, Triumphs end float limit is more to do with minimising conrod to piston misalignment than stopping the thrusts from falling out....

If somebody can mic up a main bearing cap axial width for me I should be able to give a pretty good estimation of how much tolerance there is....

I think if its found that all bushes are going to be tight I would take some metal off each side of the upright...

Pity as a Herald would look so cool bouncing up and down on its air suspension US style but with its back wheels flapping like ears😁

Yes thats about what I got and I figure the rubber ring seals will crush a little so maybe a couple of mm total would do it?

yes always difficult for vehicle manufactures as the suspension has a wide range of load to cope with and this obviously affects ride height. On motorbikes theres often spring preload so the bike ride height can be ajusted for a passenger or luggage while some lorries have an extra axle that can be lowered into use when fully loaded to keep it at the right height. Unfortunately our cars dont have any of this adjustment so springs that can support the maximum design load are installed and then when that load isnt carried the change in ride height is particularly obvious due to the swing axle design☹️ Air suspension anyone?

By my calculations theres over 1mm got to come off somewhere each side of Petes vertical link😶

Actually I dont think it would be too difficult to work out as the manual gives the rear journal width and thrust bearing thickness so we just need the width of a main bearing cap to work out how much wear is needed to give enough clearance for the thrust to drop out... Also I note that curiously the manual says acceptable end float when 'new' is 6 to 14 thou and 6 to 8 is only the recommended figure🤪

I would keep an eye on it Dave, dont ride the clutch and then change the thrusts when you do the next crank bearing change😁

I'll stick my neck out Dave and say from what Ive seen a few thou more isnt going to be a problem. However remember that each block is different so you can never know externally how much thrust bearing wear is needed before they can slip out of place...

What goes wrong, the plastic breaks up or the crimp isnt tight enough? Got to admit I prefer the usual spade connectors with a slide over plastic cover after crimping...

Oh and Mike when you first connect the voltmeter you might get a reading but this should slowly reduce to zero or certainly a very low reading. Plus dont worry you cant do any damage damage to the meter or car electrical system with it set to >12 volts DC👍

Oh and Mike when you first connect the voltmeter you might get a reading but this should slowly reduce to zero or certainly a very low reading. Plus dont worry you cant do any damage damage to the meter or car electrical system with it set to >12 volts DC👍

I thought we wanted sensitive to pick up the smallest leakage?

I'd certainly rather stick to points than spend north of 100 quid on electronic ignition....

Must be a different arrangement Doug as I think since according to Rimmers its the same switch used with and without the bezel, the hole in the photo above must be too small to fit the bezel as well...

Right Ive thought of an easier way to test the system for a drain: With everything turned off disconnect the power lead from the battery terminal. Set voltmeter to read 12v DC and connect it between the battery terminal and power lead. If theres no drain you'll read zero while any greater reading indicates theres a circuit ie a drain. You can test the meter by turning on the car lights and although they wont work the meter will show 12v. Then turn everything off again before reconnecting the battery.

As postage cost is usually a set amount up to certain weight its best to prepare a list of components likely to be needed in the near future and get them all at the same time...

See above☹️

Sooooo difficult to find though🤑 We need something more available in local breakers yards now....