johny

Is it coming front or back?

Ive never seen a 5 hole sender on a Triumph is it standard? I think the gauges are moving iron type so have to have the matching sender which will be FT3331 series. Then I see you were looking for one of these back in 2020 Martyn and was that for the same car😨

Does bring tears to your eyes sometimes though when you see the beautiful classic Kindig are going to modify or even ones that are already done but theyre going to update! I see one of their car went for 770k so you can see what sort of budgets we're talking about....

I just hope there not something wrong that that will make the second sender fail as well!

Ouch so thats the second tank sender? It has been an expensive job😭 Cant claim under guarantee for the first one?

Result!

Do test it one change at a time though Iain....

ok let us know what you think👍

I thought the toe in was supposed to be 1.6 to 3.2 mm Iain or have I missed something?

oh and make sure all cables and terminals are well protected from sharp edges etc as none of this is protected by fuses...

Should be a good'un although might have to swop the connections round at the ammeter to get charge/discharge in right directions. It wont read a lot before starting as the current draw is low but putting on indicators, windscreen wipers etc should be enough to test it👍

Progress! Get some cleaner in the system and give it good work through and then set up the directions of the nozzles👍 Using it regularly will help keep all working...

21 - 42 crank to cam with 1/4 of a tooth being the minimum adjustment on the latter....

yes but if you keep the wires connected the battery (engine off) will supply the car because both brown wires are connected together without going through the ammeter so it'll read nothing. Then once started the power to both the car and battery will go through the ammeter from terminal B with no way to disguish between the two! No problem at all connecting the ammeter at the solenoid, it'll work perfectly. Its which ever cable route is easiest....

right well you cant use the ammeter to read the starter current as thats much too high but you can see the battery supplying the cars systems (discharging) and then once engine running the dynamo taking over (charging). As I said to do this you have to connect the ammeter just in the brown wire to the solenoid so first identify it out of the two small browns then work out how youre going to make the connections to both the regulator and ammeter. Remember when charging the ammeter could carry up to the full rating of the dynamo, aprox 22 amps, so the connections must be good and solid...

well that way will only show a current flow when the dynamo is producing and supplying both battery and ignition switch. If engine not running the battery is just supplying directly to the ignition as the two wires are connected together. Im not sure what youre trying to acheive Brett...

I watch Kindig Customs from Salt Lake City and although some of its a bit stupid (not as bad as some of the other US stuff though) the fabrication and interior work they do is absolutely beautiful to see!

Good and I reckon you do want to install the ammeter in just the wire to the battery because the although you have an ignition light this just shows the dynamo/regulator is working correctly NOT whether the battery is charging or discharging. Its quite possible to drive your car using just the battery to power its systems and as the ignition light isnt illuminated the first you know is when it conks out cos the batterys gone flat....

The thread on here said that Motalita pencil fitted a Mountney boss but of course thats no guarantee it will also fit Springalex although think theres a good chance.... Anyway with that shoulder it doesnt matter if not a tight fit in the boss hole as the spring inside will keep it pushed up in place👍

oh and diagram is courtesy vitessesteve free to download workshop manual👍

looks like it but they need separating dont they? Otherwise it wont be easy to see whether the battery is supplying the running car (battery discharging) or the dynamo/regulator is working properly and doing it...

Im using this diagram and I suppose you really want the ammeter just in the wire connected to the starter solenoid so you can see whether battery is charging or discharging...

In fact it might not be a bad thing to do so that another part of the wheel box toothed wheel gets used instead of all the wear being concentrated in the same place?

Never taken mine out but know it has to engage with the wiper wheel boxes like a rack and pinnion but I suppose you just take off the wipers arms first and then put them back in the right positions?

As youve got it wired what happens to the ammeter when you turn on the lights?