johny

To be honest I think igniting the mixture in our cars isnt a problem. It becomes much more difficult in lean burn, modern economical engines which is where high voltage, big spark systems are needed...

From what Colin says I wonder if they just made the metric ones the same size as imperial?

Surely the reputable places cant still be selling them...

Is there still a problem with elephant condoms or has it been resolved?

The thing is though, if youre already successfully igniting your mixture it doesnt matter how much longer or fatter your spark is it cant do any more igniting can it? The explosion cant go out and need reigniting! However fitting a second sparkplug to each chamber might make more sense👍

Ah but you might be breaking the coil current flow more abruptly and as we all know the faster the magnetic field collapses the bigger the voltage produced (I think)...

Best to speak to Lumenition who might have actually done some testing because otherwise youll probably get lots of different opinions😂

Im a great believer in penetrating oil (dont think which one matters too much) but its got to be repeatedly applied for days if not weeks before attempting the undoing. Squirting it on and trying straight away is not using its full potential....

Ha, you already know English is set up to confuse people! In this case I can only think Gross Jet is just their marketing name but its definitely a valve of some sort...

The manual has all the info and the hardest bit (apart from access and getting the cover off) is turning the adjuster wheel without the special tool. A drop of penetrating oil on its centre pivot helps and then I use an appropriate size flat blade screwdriver to lever the wheel round a fraction. You can see the three adjuster wheels with their teeth here and certainly a good idea to mark its position before you start...

Think the manual calls it an air valve but a lot say piston👍Anyway its not so much the piston position thats the problem with air leaks but that it puts in the correct amount of fuel for the air flow it measures and then more air is added afterwards so making the mixture going into the cylinders too weak. People adjust the jet/needle position to compensate but better just to fix the leak....

Although, as Pete says, the vac advance unit is an cruising economy device if your carb is sucking much air in through that connection it will upset the mixture of course...

One thing Roger, are you talking about the float valves when you say jets? As Im sure you know, the jets are the tubes where the needles slide to control the amount of fuel delivered to the air being drawn into the engine👍 Glad problem solved but Im not sure about those tricks for 'improving' float valves😁

I would agree with you Pete except on voltage adjustment which, if the regulator is working correctly beforehand and you touch nothing else, should be stress free🤞

Download for free the Triumph GT6/Vitesse workshop manual with all the procedures at vitessesteve.co.uk then remove regulator cover (access not brilliant as up under dash on passenger side) identify the correct one of the three coils and with an appropriate tool rotate the contact adjuster wheel a smidge in the right direction...

Glad the Vitesse has good old solid dumbell weights for discs😁

I suppose its yanking the boot lid fully open that strains that bracket but then youve got to extend the support arm almost completely to get it to lock....

Thats about the right voltage according to the manual settings for the regulator although these are running with the battery disconnected. You must have a good battery that is recharging after a start and the volts then climb to the maximum regulator setting. However even a modern alternator will put out around this voltage as youve got to have sufficient to push current into the battery. You could ask the radio supplier what voltage it can take but yours doesnt sound excessive. It wouldnt be difficult to adjust the voltage down a little in the regulator if thats the only solution....

Thats pretty good going to get 125k out of a set of discs but even so shouldnt crack if still within recommended wear limits. When you think what could happen😱

What make are these discs? Surely they should be reported to the manufacturer and/or Trading Standards as they appear lethal and cant be unique....

It always starts with just one😂 and then you forget which ones are metric so I never seem to have the right spanner to hand....

The worst thing about using metric nuts and bolts on our cars is that you then need to use a mixture of imperial and metric spanners or, what is more common, use the wrong one and start rounding heads☹️

I imagine the valve timing afterwards might have been a bit out as the drive chain was twice its original length😁

Another thing is I suspect the original rubber bushes may help reduce wear on the rack/pinion and its 4 ball joints by softening the constant impacts from the wheels while driving...

yes the manual says those cup clamps should be pushed up against the vertical flanges until the rubber compresses and theres only 1/8" gap left on each one. I wonder if its another case of taking the manual along to show the MOT tester at the same time as explaining why there has to be play in the wheel bearings😁