johny

Certainly no load running is when its most likely to overflow. At the same time watch in the carb mouths to see if theres an excess of fuel coming out of either jet...

Do you think the float level issue has been resolved then Mick? If the level is getting too high the mixture will be rich so before anything else you need to be sure its correct. One problem at a time😁

I have got the rad hard up against the front valance and I believe even that is also mounted pretty far forward😁

Yes checked my vitesse and 22 certainly feels enough at the front so maybe the weight distribution isnt as bad as I thought....

Youll be able to sell the secret cam position and timing far and wide though....

Strange as the fan tapers thinner by the water pump so mine was tightest between the crank end and fan motor. Oh but mine is just clamped directly to the rad matrix...

Orrrrr you might have accidently found a set up that boosts power over the standard output😳

Ive got a Spal 305mm fan (the higher powered version) on my mk1 vitesse and Im very pleased with it. I removed the fan AND its boss from the end of the crank and it fits nicely. You might even get away with the thinner lower powered model or perhaps go up to the next size of 325mm. After trying various controls Im now on purely manual with a fused relay and switch supplied from the radio position of the ignition switch so I can run it for 30 seconds after engine stop without the risk of forgetting it👍

Ah yes there is a way and its putting packing between the pump and block to move its operating arm further away from the cam. The arm gets moved less so produces less fuel pressure👍 Its trial and error without a pressure gauge and of course if too much you could run out of fuel at high sustained engine loads....

Yes Paul the normal Vitesse rad cap with 7psi rating by my calculations will lift at about 111 degrees C...

Oooh could be another 50 horses available😍

Yes probably best to clip gaiter with full lock the other way so it will extend the minimum amount when changing lock...

I thought it was the other way with any type of fan becoming redundant once the cars moving because the blast of air being forced through the complete matrix is far greater than the fan can produce. Then when driving over cooling can only occur with the wrong (or broken) thermostat or an oversized radiator.... Youre right about heat soak being a potential problem and in my opinion is the most arduous situation so making an electric fan very useful.

Theres a good exploded diagram of the steering column that shows the clamp and the flat section it locks👍

No it cant separate as long as the clamp is done up on the flat section machined in the shaft. The clamp centre grub screw should be set to slide and collapse to lessen the impact in a collision. I think youre best to read and satisfy yourself about this safety critical system in the manual rather than from some bods online😂

Ah you need the free to download bible kindly offered at vitessesteve.co.uk

Its like moving your fuel tank to the front of the car, quite a major mod😳

Im surprised you can just stick batteries wherever you like because of the danger they present in an accident...

Could be that its been converted to non resistor ignition. Where does the electronic ignition get its supply from (red wire) as this must be 12v?

The way to know Martin is if you dont see a voltage (12v) at the coil with the ignition turned on but not running youve lost the resistor supply somewhere. The other thing is dont run for too long with a direct 12v supply as your coil is rated at 6v and can overheat...

If it starts ok but then stops when returning ignition key to run position the problem wont be solenoid as this is supplying the starting 12v ok. It must be the 6v running supply thats coming by a resistor to the coil thats at fault. Quite likely the resistor, either a separate unit by the coil or a piece of resistance wire integrated into the supply cable, has failed....

Ah didnt listen well enough and thought that tank in the boot contained the batteries. Agree on the gearbox and drive train unless theyve got electronic limit on the starting torque....

Yes but think Id put the extra batteries in the front to pull it down a bit more. Looks like theres plenty of room....

You could do it from the cam sprocket marks or the rocking valve method as described in the workshop manual which uses the position of cylinder 1 inlet and outlet rockers at TDC to indicate correct cam timing...

Theres no way for water to bypass the matrix but obviously when stationary or very slow moving theres little air flow over the tubes so the temperature at rad inlet and outlet will be much closer....