johny

Think it must be a tandem MC but probably difficult to find an after market seal kit from a different manufacturer these days. Maybe try to source NOS but it'll be old rubber by now....

A new one will certainly look pretty than the old😊 but then might show up the brake one! Also dont forget it might be the slave cylinder thats the problem....

If you pull the rubbers away from the clutch master cylinder you might see its wet so leaking or if dry then its the slave cylinder. Bear in mind that the bores of both can be corroded in which case they have to be replaced so I would weigh up the cost/risk/time/hassle of stripping compared to buying new and swopping out...

I havent heard of timing affecting starting so much as giving pinking (rattling sound in engine on acceleration) which is also affected by the fuel octane rating. Most people set their timing to the book and then, if theres pinking with the fuel they want to use, back off the setting until it stops (definition of this is the rattling ceases on reaching 2000rpm when under full acceleration in 4th gear on the flat). Of course everything else has to be correct such as mixture, distributor condition etc...

No you need to accurately measure endfloat and the thickness of the existing thrusts to calculate the size of new thrusts needed. Orrr buy all sizes and play around until you just have a smidge of play🤗

From the manual there should be a maximum of about 0.2mm play and the clonk sound plus your measurements indicate you are far in excess of that. Saying that the engine probably isnt damaged yet but I would plan to replace the thrust bearings before the engine is used. Its an easy and relatively cheap job especially while the engine is out of the car and you can have a look at the other crank bearings, the oil pump and even cylinder bores at the same time👍

drill and tap for drain plug if you havent already got one? Not convinced myself as, once cleaned out inside the casing, with the miles the average car does nowadays the oil will last until the next seal change plus its another place to leak from....

There should be a second wire connecting somewhere on the coil side of the resistor that on start up supplies 12v to the coil instead of the 6v from the ballast. If the former got lost in the engine change it would explain the poor starting although of course just because its present doesnt mean its working! Anyway you can just connect the 2 or 3 wires together to do away with the ballast...

Looks like its a Mk4 Spit with a 1500 engine fitted which might explain it?

Yes that would do it - try and see how the starting is...

Think you have two possibilities, one bad and one even worse. The first is the system is working as it should so you start with about 12v to the 12v coil but then the ballast cuts in and youre driving around with 6v to a 12v coil. The other is that the system is not working so youre then also trying to start with 6v to a 12v coil! Fortunately theres two possible solutions. Keep the 12v coil and get rid of the ballast system or buy a ballast rated coil and check to make sure the system is working correctly👍

It shouldnt need hitting😲Once in have a good close look and you should see a half the width of the circlip has disappeared into the slot all the way round...

if it comes out with WD40 theres definitely a problem😁

Course, could it be that it was perfectly in place but the slot is worn so it could pop out again🙁

I think Cliff was talking about only changing the outer buttons in situ to test them and then remove the spring later to do the rest when theyve proved satisfactory. If this is possible it sounds like a good plan👍

Are they any good though? Looks, fit, tactile comfort and grip as for that price Id like the car to go a bit faster as well😊

I did the same but its not leather or even a plastic which has a good feel to it so I find it slippery in hot weather and not my best purchase☹️

hmmm not convinced by plastic/nylon pipe as unlike metal it will want to straighten itself out so for example where it passes through the front outrigger and then has to turn quite sharply through 90º to come up to the fuel pump theres no existing location for a fixing to keep it in place....

I just bought a length of copper pipe and found it very easy to make smooth bends in it by hand along the chassis and up at each end to the fuel tank and pump connections. Hopefully your clips are still in place as they are shared with the front to rear brake pipe...

Are you sure you dont want to install the Triumph design of metal pipe? You can use copper which fits in the correct clips that use the existing holes along the chassis and might even work out cheaper...

Thats it. Do you know if the hose has been run all the way along the underside of the car and if its been done properly?

no apparently R6 was used for petrol carburettor cars in 70s and 80s but isnt enough for fuel injection and so of course never designed with ethanol resistance in mind...

Looks like it should run over the back near the skin and come out through the floor behind the rear wheel. The original was metal running along the underside of the car, clipped to the chassis, and up to the top of the tank where there was a short rubber pipe to connect to the tank outlet...

if only my tip was 18mm😭

Will the gear teeth of a 18mm bore input shaft (single rail Dolomite 1850) match those on a 3 rail GT6/Vitesse layshaft though?