johny

Surprising as would have thought mk2 head would be most at risk or maybe Triumph learnt the lesson and paid special attention when increasing the size of the valves...

I believe all boxes for Vit 2L, GT6, and 1850 have the same forward ratios (although gear profiles are different) and otherwise the only internal differences are tip and synchro ring sizes... Interesting about the WE box, so it should be same as mk3 GT6 with small tip and large rings.

No its definitely WE as Ive got one but cant find that serial number anywhere and we've talked about it before. Dolomite 1850 are apparently WH or WM...

Should be interesting as this looks to be a WE serial number box for which to my knowledge the source vehicle model has never been identified....

I believe youre supposed to use shims under the hub springs to get the right tension so the hub only moves under a certain force. Now that is advanced gearbox rebuilding😂

Never checked the springs in the 3 rails though but maybe if they fail its more noticeable...

Ive found broken springs in hubs before...

Out of interest Martin wheres the head failed?

Maybe this is due to the large tip having less 'shoulder' than the small tip because the diameters are much more similar and so a spacer/packer is needed....

Think spacers were only ever used on large tip mainshafts and not the original 1/2" type....

Yes the bearing is 1/2*3/4 and I believe was used on all models until the change to single rail. I think you need to check both shaft tip and input shaft hole sizes as one or both could have been modified....

Yes your box must be non standard as no GT6/Vitesse was ever supplied with a large tip or fine splines...

Apparently this is quite a common failure point and apart from welding the crack itself a reinforcing plate is made up to weld in place across the complete rear side of that suspension girder. Makes sense as thats exactly where the upward force from the springs is concentrated but of course looks like a body off job....

How did you sort out the laygear end float in the end?

Definitely dont put your leaf spring in the wrong way round though😂

Yes reducing tip from 0.5" to 12mm to fit sleeve is done so as you say some risk. New mainshafts now available though....

Theres lots of threads on here, some even with photos of the wear youre likely to find, if you search the gearbox section of the forum. The original Triumph workshop manual is also available online for free download and that has a very good chapter on rebuilding them...

I dare say the mainshaft tip bearing surface will have some wear as well and that would also generate noise in all gears except 4th🙁

Yes it can be a fine line between using the gearbox as is and repairing it before a bearing breaks up and damages gears in which case the box would never be accepted for exchange☹️

well unless its been done recently therell certainly be muck in there and you might as well change the other o ring on the jet at the same time plus check float level etc. Saying that Id rather blow through it first but I suppose if you have it apart at least you can cross it off the list.....

Note: if you take the carb reservoir bowl off you will almost certainly need a new gasket because the old one will stick and get damaged. Theres two types of replacements available. Also the o ring that seals between jet assembly and the bowl may need replacement so its good to buy it at the same time👍

Ýes the choke looks fine however is your air piston sitting down hard on the bridge? When you lift it manually and let it drop there should be a slight clonk as it hits the bridge.... Also Ive never seen the air piston with its small needle screw hole showing at the front like yours. It might be your model of carb but are you sure the piston is orientated correctly and the rubber diaphragm lugs sitting as they should in both the piston and lid recesses? The float chamber vent I mention earlier is that one just next to the LH air filter fixing hole.

Think youre right Pete but its funny how the workshop manual is quite specific even giving separate instructions for left and right hand drive:

One trick you can try on a stromberg is blow into its overflow hole using a plastic tube. You have to remove the air filter and the hole is in the top of the front face so if you blow in this you will pressurise the float chamber and should push either fuel or air out of the jet which you can see through the mouth of the carb. If nothing goes through = a blockage, if air comes out = the camber is empty or, if fuel, then the problem lies elsewhere. In the second case the float valve could be stuck shut but by removing the fuel line and blowing into the connection you can check this....

Yes looks like one has some pitting but ok. There will always be wear marks on the face of the gear even if the bush is longer as the gear is free to slide along up against the thrust washer. However dont forget we are talking about when the gear isnt in use and just spinning with no load - when selected it becomes locked to the output shaft to transmit the drive and the bush is no longer in use (well apart from absorbing radial thrust)...