Dick Twitchen

Hag, have done Le Mans and Laon using the ferries (Cherbourg, Caen, Le Havre and Dieppe) and never had a problem with the wheelbarrow exhaust. Ferry staff were particularly attentive and in some cases bought me up at an angle to the ramp to make the transition smoother. I always grab some chocks once on the ferry to ease any concerns on the handbrake. Dick

John Thomason's 'Guide to Originality' has a photo and mentions the yellow sleeving appearing on the Mk3 Spitfire; interestingly after the statement '...now a negative earth vehicle.'. Dick

Thanks Pete, in which case does not seem compatible with the options available for hose tails (1/8 NPT or 1/4 NPT) through Car Builder Solutions and elsewhere. Staying with Triumphs original design at the pump then, but is there any reason why I should still not realign the top of the pump? Dick

Replacing the fuel pump on the GT6 and also re-routing with hose (R9) behind the engine on the the bulkhead. Struck me that if I rotate the top of the pump body then both inlet & outlet connections will face away from the block and I can then use hose tail fittings (in from the filter, out to the carbs) rather than tube nuts and olives. However, can anyone tell me the correct thread size and if this is feasible or not? At the same time I have work to do on the tank to pump line and it seems sensible to fit a fuel cut-off valve adjacent to the tank to ease maintenance. Any recommends for a valve that does not constrict with too small a bore size? Dick

Nautam, have a look in the Bodywork section there is/was a thread running on Carpet Press Studs. Dick

Dean, not by any chance the distributor clamp slipping which has upset all your timing work? Dick

Jeff, WD40 will have no effect; PlusGas is probably the most readily available stuff. In the marine world you can also use diesel to help free seized items. Dick

Doug, Got it. Having just had a trial run had not appreciated enough room to 'rest' the pipe between the thermostat housing and rocker cover. Did you manage to find a spigot to go in the pump or just use a short length of pipe and a tube nut plus olive (whoever she is)? Leatherhead looms but sure I can make it one way or another, just keep ticking off the possible causes. Dick

Doug, Resurrecting this as part of the process to sort a fuel misfire when hot under acceleration. Was this 8mm hose, what route did you take and how did you attach it? A trial run on mine and it seems to be awfully close to the top pulley.

Peter, I have the same moulded plastic backed carpet as you and decided to use some heavy duty 'hook & fluff' (velcro) strips glued in place. Carpets have not moved in 10 years, easy to remove and helps prevent a source of rust. Not original i know but..... Dick ps Classic English theme at Crotch Cooler gathering at Alton or sailing? Harbour busy, leave weekends to the working classes (bad luck chaps) so that's sorted.

My sailmaker son reckons to fit to the solid structure (floor) first and then you feel through the carpet to line it up, using a bradawl to poke through if required. Dick

That's a pity Colin, my GTE was reliable and (reasonably) cost effective to run. Only let let me down twice (condenser), pity one was late on a winter's night returning from Heathrow, Mrs T not impressed! However, she was still happy to travel in it to Classic Le Mans and camp.

For us pipe smokers that's a v serious 'Condor moment'!

Sure somebody at your local TSSC group can help; probably the Thames Area (details on the Home Page...Area Directory).

That's because those of us on the coast around there disappeared off into the inland wilds of Hampshire! Southern area put out a good mix of Triumphs, 2 MGBGT and, most heartening of all, some younger member drivers came along. Saw a decent number of classics out and about during our 60 mile route courtesy of Neil Fletcher, ending up near Romsey.

Aidan, If you have access to the DVDs it is in the April 2007 Courier (Nos 322) page 15. The mod was to ease the problem of corrosion in either corner of the tailgate aperture where the water will sit unless wiped away; when I restored mine the whole of the metal in that area had disappeared and I ended up making the complex shapes and then welding in. For the drains he used the spigot ends of disposable fuel filters and then led it through a new hole in the boot floor; as Colin Lindsay (GT6 Reg Sec at the time) pointed out you could use the existing fuel vent hole. Dick

Doug, you are correct but that fuel vent pipe and associated grommet does not provide the drain Aidan seeks. Aidan, I think, but cannot be sure, the bottom of the valence. Will have a rummage around later today and see if I can find out; time should allow as it's pouring with rain again so work on the boat will have to wait! Dick

Aidan. Simple answer is no there is not a drain hole. I would suspect water laying on the lower lip of the tailgate aperture that ends up making it's way past the rubber seal. Many years ago I recall a topic on the old Forum or in The Courier of somebody who fitted a couple of drains (peened over brake pipe if I recall correctly) in either corner and led flexible pipes to a union and then out of the floor. Been meaning to do something similar but keeps being overtaken by events. Dick

My last one came from Mark Field at Jigsaw Racing and has been fine; and with a tubular manifold that probably flex's more than a cast one. Along the line of Dave's comment he uses them on his cars. Dick

Aidan, Agree with Colin's comments re the end plate, and I also did not appear to have had a problem. I bought my stand from Machine Mart many years ago. Dick

Paul. To elaborate on Colin's response, a Mk1 GT6 gets v warm inside v easily, that's why you rarely see a driver without a damp patch on his back in anything more than freezing weather!

When I did this on mine 10 years ago I used some Demon Tweaks 5mm universal ones; their part nos then was GRYSP12. Also, I would recommend changing the studs to Freelander ones; there are threads on the Forum about this mod. .

Rather than just experiment, if you take the car to a paint factors they can match it up, and either identify the colour or make a small batch up (but that can cost). The latter approach may be needed if the 'original' paint has faded/discoloured over time and a touch-up is all that is required (works on old Land Rovers). On a modern needing work very often the filler cap cover is a good starting point, hopeless in our case.

Paul, Overdrive would have been an option, and the heater was a special order item on the Mk1 (WHY!), but John Thomason's 'Guide to Originality' would indicate standard fit on the Mk3. Mine also had a long delay between build date (21 Nov 67) and first registration (1 Jan 69). Dick

I had a similar sort of 'rocking' on my column and as well as replacing the tired spacer (609639) placed a small strip of rubber matting between the lower clamp (619850) and the column. This provided all the grip that was required. Dick