RogerH

Something in the back of my mind is saying that towing a TR7 can be a no-no. Possibly OK for a very short distance. But there is an oil pump in the GB (I think) that will not work being towed (effectively reversing the whole GB) Are there any TR7 experts here. Roger

I also use PJ for my TR4 and TR4A. Unlimited mileage, agreed value if required (with supporting pics) breakdown cover here and abroad - all for £320 - reduced slightly from last year. Roger

Halfords have a few ready made and cheap as chips. Rooger

Absolutely. 'Previous Owners' are a strange lot. Roger

Hi Pete, I only know stuff about the TR cars/engines all the other TRiumph cars are a mystery. The cylinder head attachment washers come in at £2 each and are on the special side. They do not deform. Roger

Hi Peter, you could try Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead. Well recommended by many TR owners. They do all sorts of sports cars AH, Jag, Triumph, MG TES in Wiltshire are also very well recommended. http://www.testransmissions.co.uk/tes-transmissions-manual-2008.html Be careful though. Rebuilding a diff is a black art an it may come back worse then when it was delivered to the workshop. Regarding the cupped washers I read somewhere that those on the Ford Escort diff are of a similar size. That may be only for the TR diff but perhaps universal. Or make your own. Roger

Hi Ian, flog the bikes and get a TR. I have a couple of friends at 6' 2"+ and they fit in a TR3. The TR4 - 6 are more forgiving.. Roger

Here you go Phil Roger

I'm his friend. !!!😁 We used to play footy together many many years ago. The 'A' type OD can draw apprx 20 amps to pull in then switch over to apprx 1amp to hold in. If the switch goes dicky you may get a chattering Solenoid or possibly just many amps being used. Roger

Hi Paul, The cracking is caused by stresses built up in the manifold. Eventually it cracks and relieves the stresses. It will crack no more. The actual gap of the crack will fill with carbon and other muck and thus not leak. This is common on the TR4/4A original manifolds. Regarding the repair. The stop drill holes will certainly help to stop the crack running. However unless the crack has a decent amount ground out of it there will be very little penetration and the crack will still exist under the weld. You could consider an Ali/Nickle/Bronze brazing technique - much more sympathetic to the cast steel. Roger

Crimped V solder joint will this comparison ever go away. There are no solder joints in aircraft wiring looms. That is my benchmark. Crimped joints have been proved to be far superior to solder joints. Oxidation of a typical copper/tinned copper cable is minimal and has no effect. Oxidation caused by solder flux can be an issue IF the wrong solder/flux is used. More importantly has anybody considered age hardening of the copper causing it to break if not supported properly. Roger (tin hat on)

Hi Colin, if the thread is dodgy consider using a helicoil. This will tight against the block and the stud will be tight against it. Roger

Hi Colin, protect the thread with Welseal etc to slow down the corrosive powers of the coolant (if there is any). There is a gasket between cover and block - so that should not leak. Coat both sides of the washer under the nyloc nut with Hylomar. Roger

If it is like the TR4/4A do not over fill the rad. Leave about 1" to allow the fluid to expand. Roger

Hi Roger, old modern petrol can go iffy but near with it and top up with the odd gallon pr so as it goes down. In future if you suspect an issue with the electrics try to change one item at a time. Otherwise you will not know what the problem is/was and will end up throwing some good parts away. If the fuel is suspect have a tin of 'Start you Bast&^d' handy Roger

The rubber UJ from Moss appear to be OK. I see they do two types now (early and Late - this is on the TR4/4A) Thanks for the info on the superPro offering. Out of interest I see that you have the same steel clamp as fitted to the TR4/4A. I found there was an issue with the castings on these. This issue cause the clamp not to clamp adequately.. A small cut/slot is required to remove excess metal that impedes the clamping. Only one side of the clamp needs relieving See attached photo Roger

I read, recently, that they are of limited value as the engine really needs to be under strain to get a correct simulation for getting the main running sorted (a rolling road etc) The lifting pin and colour of the plugs is very workable. Roger

Thay also have their WebCat. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/spitfire If you like a puzzle then it will not disappoint. Roger

I have the same feelings with WD40. Roger

Hi Colin, you should have asked the question before attempting to use anything. The correct Superglue with an activator may have worked - but I suspect not now as the surface is contaminated with other stuff. Gorilla may work, but!! A quality Araldite stands a chance. However Nylon is a pig to work with due to its oily nature. Roger

Has anybody from the club approached Rimmers or Moss to ask if they can go back into production (small batch/short rum etc) I appreciate they would be low turn over items. Or is there anybody in the club with a lathe useful at small batch fiddling. I've done loads of obsolete stuff on the TR range. Has anybody got a decent drawing or a NOS item. Roger

Hi Adrian, your top photo gives the impression of a serious amount of rust lurking there. Before you spend decent money on a welder that you have never used before it may be better to remove all the muck/paint/sealant from that whole area and see exactly the extent of the problem. The gap does not ;ook as if it has clean metal either side. You can't weld rust. Roger

Hi Chris, before you put any underseal on you must ensure that the paint scheme is top notch. Quality primer (Bondarust primer works very well), quality top coat. Gravitex comes in Black, White, Grey. Can be applied by brush or gun. Sets quickly with a nice finish. It can then be painted over. A gloss top coat will help water drain off. For any product on the underside of the car you must check it annually and sort out problems immediately. You can only do the best you can. Roger

If you do not have the round (14W) type motor then fit one. Then fit a gear wheel to give you the apprx correct sweep. When your nearside blade goes piste does the off side blade move quite a lone way over to the passenger side (it should do if your probem is as I understand it) Do make sure that the wheel boxes and tubes are in good order. I did this to my TR4A in 2017 as the square type motor (DR3) is iffy at best. I had to fit a 90 degree wheel to get the correct sweep (apprx 120 degree's) but I left the wheel boxes as is (for the 4A) When your nearside blade goes piste does the off side blade move quite a lone way over to the passenger side (it should do if your probem is as I understand it) Roger

Use a thinner washer on the inhib switch Roger