RogerH
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Everything posted by RogerH
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Hi Paul, I take it that it is the GT6. This could simply be a poorly charged battery. Roger
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Hi John, firstly the inhibitor switch should not tick - that sound is probably from the OD relay I don't know how many inhibit switches Spitfires have but whatever controls 3rd gear needs adjusting. They do wear. Roger
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Hi Folks, being an ex-aerospace engineer I have my views on the use of etch primer. I always thought it was specific to Aluminium and magnesium and their alloys. (reactive materials) Reading Clive's reply above got me scratching my head as to why you would use it on (mild) steel where a key is easy to achieve and fibreglass (bad keying but how does the acid attack it. So I had a Google (they can't touch you for it) and I found this https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/etch-primer I have to accept it as they have bothered to investigate it etc. Learning something new each day Roger
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Look for paint and corrosion under the earth strap contacts. Roger
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Hi Folks, the standard earthing on my 4A is battery Neg to body then chassis to engine. This means that that must be some mystical contact between body and chassis. Therefore I also fit a battery neg to engine block. Roger
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Hi Badwolf, In theory the phosphate coating becomes part of the metal structure and shouldn't separate (great last words) I read a couple of process sheets last night for adhesives and none of them gave a hint towards surface coatings. - perhaps it is just an aerospace oddity. Thus I would suggest - stick with what you know. Good clean and degrease. Roger
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Hi Badwolf, your initial prep is fine for the short term. Before you contemplate a repair to the car using this method try another test and apply phosphoric acid tot he surfaces and allow to dry. Jenolite should work. This will stop/slow down corrosion starting over a long period. Roger
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Hi, Did you prep the steel surface before applying the adhesive? For a simple clean the adhesive will bond happily. However over time the steel surface will start to corrode (microscopically) and the bond will fail. I have a stainless air vent lid on my 4A that has the hinge bonded with a fancy Araldite - this has survived for the last 12+ years. The surface was prep'd using a phosphoric acid. For Aluminium anodizing works well. Roger
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Hi Colin, before you go chasing the impossible do you know why the ring broke? Can it be removed? Weld repair and refit. Roger
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there is actually a third apprx 1" to the left again Roger
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Triple plated is now usually the norm. Copper first to cover the steel and allow for imperfections to be polished out. Nickle to seal the the copper/Steel. Then the chrome. The big problem with Chrome direct to the steel subsurface is that the chrome is not a complete homogeneous coating. It is made up of little 'islands'. So moisture can easily pass through and then the steel goes rusty. This can also happen with a copper base as the copper can have very thin areas where. the moisture enters. If you are near West Londoin try Colonnade Metal Finishing bext to the Wembly stadium. Or, try an industrial plating shop - they often have an unpublised classic car facility (hush hush). Roger
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Seeing the squished copper thingy reminded me of my train spotting days in the late 50's. (not the 80's - that was something different_) During slack periods (that is lack of engines to spot) we would put 1d (penny) coins on the track. When the next train went over it would flatten and stretch the penny. We had one penny that was nearly a yard long (that was in the days when Wagon Wheel biscuits were the size of real wagon wheels. Roger.
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Hi Folks, I fitted a pair of these late last year and initially I wasn't impressed with the lack of yellow in the typical Lucas style bulb. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NIGHTEYE-H4-9003-HB2-LED-50W-8000LM-High-Low-Beam-Headlight-Kit-Bulbs-6500K-UK/312369110761?hash=item48baa65ee9:g:JqAAAOSws8NdFKcz However once acustomised to them they work well. Perhaps the worst time to use these is twilight. At £20 a pair it was worth an experiment. If you are running on a dynamo they free up precious amps. Roger
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Halfords do them - although I have not bought from them yet Revington - (TR spares supplier in Somerset) also do them. Roger
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I think this is caused by the drivers side wiper becoming temporarily curved by being in the same position for long periods when not in use. it would be worse in the cold weather. You could try, with the wipers on, switching the ignition off when the wipers are vertical. This will help keep then flat. Or you could change over to silicone blades that are much more pliable. Roger
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Hi Dave, if you do not know the system inside out (I'm sure Doug does) then the wiring diagram may be a good place to start. You can eliminate many wasted avenues. Doug's description of firing on the starter but not running is a classic for the ballast wire but not exclusively. Whatever the problem if you can reason it out then you have done well. Roger
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Hi John, you may well find that that pit, coincident with the end of the valve stem, is not wear (as in worn away) but the hardened surface pushed into the softer parent material. Therefore if you carefully grind away the unused area of the arm tip then you still have a hardened contact surface. Roger
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Hi mark, I had the same concerns on my TR4A. I fitted a cheapo Halfords windscreen aerial. The type that fits on the outside of the frame and angles backwards I fitted this to the rear bumper on a simple bracket. The cable goes up inside the wing and through the inner wing. The top of the aerial has litle clip that nocely fits to the upper screw on the rear light cluster. No body holes Roger
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Dealing with rusty panels - Surface processing
RogerH replied to rolyberkin's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
ooops - scrub Poly Insert epoxy Roger -
Dealing with rusty panels - Surface processing
RogerH replied to rolyberkin's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
As the lid has no lap joints or folded edges the SPL treatment would be very good indeed. Bilthamber DeOxC is also excellent for rust removal. It gets into grain of the metal and pickles out virtually anything that is rusty. If you have pin holes consider lead loading (you would only need a spot here are there) rather than welding - you may get distortion if in the middle of a panel. A decent polyester filler would also work well. Roger -
Hi Karl, go back another 30 years at least. Fokker were using bonded joints in the 1940. They lead the way for many years in perfecting methods of bonding Ali Alloys and then how to inspect them during their life. De Haviland were up and running with bonding in the late 50's. The DH121 TRident had quite a lot of bonded joints. Rivet holes are dangerous things and the less the better. I used some aerospace Araldite back in 2005 to bond the hinge to the flap of the TR4/4A air intake in front of the screen. These are Stainless Steel and still well stuck down and no rusting. Sadly aerospace Araldite is expensive wit a capitol E Roger
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Hi Pete, from the first post it is an inlet valve - no hot gases as such. Roger
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Hi Peter, if it is the 'piston oil control ring' how is the excess oil getting to the back side of the inlet valve. It doesn't. The only way is either down the valve guide or in through the carbs picking up oil from where ever. Roger
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Hi John, it may have been one of those multi tube (octopus) affairs) Roger
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Hi Doug, tell Paul to take the prop to Propshaft services in Feltham. They will sort it good and proper TW14 0RX 0208 844 2265 I have no connection with them had good work carried out Roger
