RogerH

without the numbers how will Heritage find the info !!! Roger

The Heritage cert takes about three weeks. It will contain the - Car/chassis number (VIN) - CTxxxxxxx Engine number CT xxxxxx E Body number xxxxx CT The numbers do not coincide Roger

I think there is a flaw in the experiment. The chap replaced the original back, with its contoured inner face, with a flat panel. The flat panel allows the oil flow to simply flow where the rotating dynamics dictate. The areas that concerned the chap (initially at the bottom and latterly as the speed increased) should have contours that would disrupt the smooth oil flow. Bad experiment. Worth watching though just to see how daft people can be. Roger

This is the spec for the 2000 2500 etc and probably the same for all the TRiumph boxes Al BS.1490 LM4M Roger

Aluminium alloy and welded carefully. Roger

To help the Nitromores take effect cover the applied stripper with newspaper. This reduces evaporation and keeps the stripper wet. Better still simply uy Starchem synstrip P51. Roger

Has Andrew got an Atomic Number !!!! Roger

The 'lead memory' is simply a contaminated surface that stops the valve and seat welding together each time they close. With higher revs they close quicker and the impact forces are increased. The surface of both valve and seat get a microscopic coating of lead. In theory the contamination starts immediately so the lower of the damaging revs become less damaging. As the contamination increases then so the protection against higher revs improves. Sadly there is a limit to how high the revs should go. So, simple touring or shopping trips could see 10,000's miles use before the contamination is burnt or hammered away. Roger

The dynalite product wasn't around when the tests were undertaken. Roger

I was in Moss -- Europe this morning and noticed that they sell the Dynolite range of oils and stuff. They do a VSR £8 for 250 litres of fuel and an octaone booster + VSR for £10 for same quantity Don't use it myself but it is there. Roger

Atomic number decent ventilation should suffice. Roger

Hi Dave, although DOT 4 has a reputation for lifting pint it can be quite slow. Nitromores is no longer worth the money. I have had very good results with Starchem Synstrip https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STARCHEM-PAINT-REMOVER-PAINT-STRIPPER-VERY-STRONG-AND-EFFECTIVE-5-Litre/263556970260?epid=1090272517&hash=item3d5d383714:g:USYAAOSwO6tbhbpE&frcectupt=true This really works and will burn your hands if you get it on you. Roger

Hi Marcus, do Moss sell these for the 4A.? Roger

The loose bolts could have a small affect on the audio dynamics. The rear casing amplifying any noises in that area. But the problem lies elsewhere. Roger

Hi Chris, why are you changing from 95 to 98.? Roger

Hi Wayne, are your wheel bearings as tight as they need to be. It could be pad knock back. Roger

Hi Dave, Mineral oil brake fluid is very very bad news for our cars. The two main fluids are Silicone (DOT 5) and polyglycol-ether DOT3, 4, 5.1). As for things going round in circles add OverDrive/Gearbox oil to the equation SAE40 or EP90 !!!!!!!! Roger

Hi Peter, silicone based fluid was developed for the US Army with the main role for long term storage. The idea was that after 10, 18 or more years they can be rolled out with no maintenance on the brakes. (shouldn't go rusty as there is no water in the system). At some stage it was tested and registered with a DOT number. Prior to this the brake system would be drained or inhibitor inserted. Before ABS the car manufacturers didn;t use DOT5 because of the cost. They don;t use it now as DOT 5 and ABS do not work together. Roger

Hi Paul, my comment about modern cars not using DOT 5 was because many people say if DOT5 is so good why do the moderns not have it. DOT 5 is no good with ABS. Nothing to do with aged cars. The battle goes on !!!!! Roger

Do NOT put mineral oil in the brake system. This will kill the seals very quickly. Dot 3, 4 & 5.1 is a polyethylene Glycol blend (Synthetic) Dot 5 is a silicone fluid. Dot 5 (Silicone) does not mix with water BUT water can still get into the system. It will/may settle in low sump areas and cause corrosion possibly. 2 or 3 year replacement is worth thinking about. Automec suggest that you can drain DOT 4 and replace with DOT 5 with no flushing - utter madness. DOT 5 does damage paint work - trying touch-up painting after contamination. There is no miracle fluid. Modern car manufacturers do not use DOT 5 because it does not work well with ABS systems. DOT 5 was created for long term preservation/storage so was mummification but we won;t go there. Roger

Hi Andrew, Have a look at the CJ Auto's site. They do quite a few. I made my own, albeit for a 4A. Roger

When dressing the sump bolt hole flange I would suggest using a nylon of wooden hammer. The steel hammer may spread/expand the metal (distortion). I tend to use the standard gasket + a silicon sealant. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?search_group=&q=silicon+sealant Roger

On the TR diff you can break the bearing housing down by bolting the two output flanges back to back. I have not done this but it was explained on the TRR TR6 Forum about two/three years ago. Roger

Hi Paul, what car/engine is this? Does it have SU carbs/ If so are the dash pots filled up Roger

Ones taste is developed from your normal habitat. Move off somewhere else and it may not be to your liking. But just like noses that get used to odours after 24 Hrs immersion taste buds also acclimatise. Not keen on the northern idea of fine bubbles in ale. - easily sorted though. BlackSheep with the fizzer removed from the tap is a good pint. Roger