RogerH

Here is a Video clip of the VW door skin removal It looks so easy Skin Removal Roger

I would suggest they are rolled pins designed for a purpose. They may not be 'Roll' pins. You need to analyse them and see what they are. However liker all jobs you can do what you wish with your car. Roger

Roll pins are heat treated for a particular application Door hinge pivot is not one of them. Not a good move. Roger

Indeed it does. Roger

Hi Andy, the TR SDF do not monitor or react to quality. They support the cars when there is no alternative. For quality issues there is another system in place. Roger

Most plating & Metal finishers have a wax type material that can go into threaded holes etc. When getting anything plated point out the dodgy areas and they will protect it. Roger

If you want to make your own oversized pins then consider using Silver steel as this is easy(ish) to harden Get the pin to cherry red and then quench in water. The amount of hardening can be roughly controlled by allowing to cool from cherry red to dull red and lower before quenching. Note do this BEFORE machining. Roger

Aerosol Brake/clutch cleaner come sin many varieties. Apart form removing dust they also cut through grease/oil Wynn's (£4.50) is an excellent degreaser but will attack many paint schemes. Halfords (£3.50) is awful stuff. Mild degreaser. Wouldn;t attack most paint finishes. I can imagine the cheaper Poundland etc offerings being harmless to paint but not special on grease However with anything going on paint - test a small area first. Roger

Hi Paila, the best fix is to get the head off and see what is actually going on. However it may be worth putting some leak sealer in the system. Kseal is recommended by many TR owners. However some folk don;t like it. Roger

Hi Folks, My nuts are now sorted Roger

Hi Folks, I have eleven (11) new wheel nuts. 7/16"UNF x 11/16AF with the cone base. as used on many Ali wheels. Free of Charge to a good home but you pay the P&P Roger

TRy these people for imperial rivnuts http://www.memfast.co.uk/shop/Vprod2.asp?cat=6138003713 Roger

Cheap Taps & Dies don;t normally like the continuous method as the swarf can't be got rid of and binds up in the limited flute space. The better quality, and those with spiral flutes work a treat with the continuous method. Roger

Wouldn't Nikwax work. It has a good reputation of working on waterproof clothing and doesn't show. They make quite a range of products. Roger

Hi Folks, I don;t know if the splined clamp on the right of the rubber UJ in the top pic is the same/similar to the ones used on the TR's but they have an issue from new. The gap that the clamp bolt tries to squish down has excess metal in it and stops or seriously reduces the clamping action. There are a number of ways to overcome this. My way is to machine a 3mm slot to remove the offending metal. The clamping action improves beyond measure. The shiny areas in the pic shows where the excess metal was. Roger

Hi Folks, as an aside I was thinking of good names for radio stations. My first thought was Radio Isotope' for scintillating music. However 'Radio Blanking Plate' has something about it. They will never compete with the Pirates though. Roger

Hi Richard, grasping at straws here. This has been reported a number of times on TR's with the 'A' & 'J' type OD. I assume you have a switch that turns it ON/OFF. On the TR's it has often been the thick rubber gaiter at the base of the gear stick. When you floor it the torque of the engine twists the GB and forces the gearstick into the gaiter. If the inhibit switches are marginal then the twisting may push the stick and then push the selector fork off the switch plunger. Either try and move the gaiter away from the stick or reduce the thickness of the inhibit switch fibre washers. Roger

Hi Roger, What leaks are you trying to stop? I am not familiar with the 2000 GB but the top cover looks very similar to the TR series of GB's I replaced the selector rod 'O' rings with R21 lips seas. 3/4"x1/2"x 3mm - commonly available You will need to machine the counterbore from 5/8" to 3/4". If it is any comfort I have a special reamer for this (with 1/2" pilot) The OD selector shaft can leak. There is normally a square(ish) section 'O' ring at both ends. Round section may apply too much pressure on the shaft. I have heard that the 'Q' seals work well. I had a monster leak on the front of the box where the input shaft seal sits on the shaft - it wasn't. The seal can be fitted tooooooo deep into the extension housing. Serious drips frpm the 6-o-clock drain hole in the bell housing. Roger Roger

Here is a tip that I did not see above. Sorry if I missed it. When you buy a new spare, fit it and put the working old one in the spares box. That way you will know that the spare will work. (I do this with petrol. The new stuff goes to the bottom of the tank and is used first !!!!) Some new parts are utter rubbish. Roger

How can it not put a silly grin on your face - excellent. Roger

Do not put mineral oil in your DOT3.4.5 or 5.1 system. Your seals will disintegrate quick time. Roger

That also means that any microscopic water that gets into the MC, through the little hole in the top, will sink to the bottom of the MC close to the pipework fpr the system. It then migrates, helped by gravity, to its lowest point. Roger

Another poorly investigated area with brake fluids is - Both DOT4 and DOT 5 have additives to help them do their job. The additives for one will be very different from the other albeit doing the same job. One such additive is to allow the rubber to swell very slightly. So if you use DOT 4 your seals will swell. If you change to DOT5 and retain the seals will the new swelling additive cause more swelling. AND do not forget about the rubber pipes. Roger

Moving from a paper Mag' to electronic is a desperate last step for survival of a club. Whilst funds are available go with what the members want. Roger

wow - that fork is impressive. I've never seen that failure before. Roger