RogerH

Hi Pete, I'm sure you know this but a stronger taper pin will not survive for the same reason that the standard pin doesn't. The problem lies in the fit of the pin in the tapered hole of the shaft. If there is ANY movement between fork and shaft then the shear load that the pin is ONLY designed for takes on tensile loads. Once any granular disruption starts then it will crack pretty quickly. The easy answer is an extra (roll) pin at 90 degrees. The normal mechanism for the taper pin is a single shear set up. On my TR4 I put the pin into double shear by machining the nose of the taper pin parallel and then installing a close fitting bush into the fork to take the machined nose. A nice exercise but over kill. Roger

Did, whoever fitted the new taper pin, fit an additional roll pin at 90 degrees to the taper pin.? If not then you have about 40,000 mikes before you need to fit another taper pin. Keep a careful eye on those fuses. The TR's did not have fused lights because the fuse is a weak link in reliability. You do not want a black out on a country lane. Nice looking car Roger

Hi Brian, these are typical hand brake backplate lever extenders here when you get your brakes working do fit these. Not quite handbrake turns but not far off. I made my own before these were available and still have them fitted. I have nothing to do with the seller. Roger

Hi Brian, as above the slave MUST move 'freely'. The edge of the backplate that the HB lever pivots on MUST be well defined as a sharp square edge (as per new). As it wears it introduces friction and can also bind. If it is rounded then weld it up and file back to shape. On the 4A the cabin lever cable pivot hole can be moved closer tot he lever pivot. It sometimes happens that a 4A lever finds its way onto a TR6 (promotion). Check where the pivot is. Have you considered extending the backplate HB lever. Look on Ebay. Not expensive and add apprx 25% extra leverage to the cabin hand brake. There are numerous posts on the TRR forum but my quick look failed to find one. When I do I'll post a link. Roger

Hi Woody hammer a screwdriver blade under the head. The head can't be perfectly flat - it will go. Once the blade is in turn the head - it will come out. Roger

I like to fiddle with things just to see if there are other ways of doing things (usually more difficult as it turns out) The tappets on a TR four cylinder has 5/16UNF adjusters (24 tpi) If using a known good rocker arm (no valve tip wear) you can unwind the adjuster (from tightish) to get your gap (eg 0.010") and record the angle that the adjuster turned through. You should now be able to use this to set any of the tappets with no worry about the wear depression. If the rocker arm was such that adjuster centre and the valve were equi-distant then 0.010"would be 90 degrees as near as damn it. But it isn;t. One could do the simple maths if the ratio was known. Roger

I know that not all our cars are the same. However on my TR4A it has a plastic tunnel and has holes cut all over it with rubber bungs and SpeedTape covering them all. I was in the LakeDisrict a few years ago and my Hi-Torque starter began playing and needed to be removed. The Local garage in Keswick were useless and I was having serious trouble removing the starter. In the end I roll the drivers side carpet up and made a 3" hole somewhere behind the starter to access that top nut. It took 10 15 minutes but it worked. I could then repair the starter in the camp site and reinstall. I have holes for GB oil filler, OD angle drive, starter top nut, OD jigging hole for alignment, OD Solenoid access. And it is also cut into two pieces to aid removal. Roger

Hi Chris, I don;t know if it can be done easily; but you would need a double seal rad cap and an outlet in the neck of the rad to the expansion bottle for starters. Over to the experts. Roger

Hi Mark, TR Enterprise are in Mansfield and are well respected for their work, usually on the TR range but anything else out there. I have no connection with them other than reading TRR members feedback on the forum. Roger

Hi Colin, on my 4A I have just fitted a 5.5" Spal electric fan. It fits spot on and more windy than the hamster cage originally fitted. I got it form T7 Design. They may have others. Roger

Hi John, I had the same problem a few years back. I dismantled an old garage that had asbestos sheets on the roof. I contacted the council and they said 'double bag it in plastic bags. Take to the tip and inform the foreman, he will tell you where to place it' I took it to the tip, found the man in charge and said chuck it in the steel cargo container. The doors were wide open and nearly all the asbestos in there was unbagged and open to the elements. Still - I tried to be good. Roger

If the normal cleaning products have no effect then consider using thinners but very very carefully. Rub in with a short haired 1" brush for a couple of seconds then wipe off. It will soften the vinyl if left on too long but works well. Roger

Hi Ziggy, are your spark plugs and or plug caps suppressed. Suppressed plugs often have a 'R' in the part number. You need to stop the interference at source rather then at the radio it self. If the plugs are good then look at the +12V line from the dynamo/alternator. An In car audio shop will give you good advice Roger

From Moss P.No 110367 Nuts item 67 Roger

I made a tool that locks onto the ground. It will help tightening also Roger

Zinga is available in 500mL aerosol - apprx £25 Roger

Zinga appears to be a very good protective coating. I brushed it on some components a fair few years ago. The brush marks tend to remain. I never tried spraying it. I may revisit it to do the suspension later this year. Roger

Hi Iain, I am a retired aerospace mechanical engineer/inspector. I have dabbled with electronics since the early 70's but never kept pace with technology. It is now hard going and a very odd learning curve. The resistor/Capacitor was sensible to me but I needed to get better (voltage independent) timing - hence the 555 Your electronics is another world that I think I will never visit due to old age. Good luck with your projects. Roger

Hi Iain, sorry - I missed your request late last week. see below a diagram of my circuit. It is designed for the TR series of GB's. Regarding your pic not being posted on the other forum. Set the size to a maximum of say 100KB. It should post exactly the same as on here. It may be possible to cut and paste - as I have done below. Roger

Thanks Clive, The small chassis cars are a mystery to me. Roger

Hi Folks, my comment in the second post above was for the TR series of gearbox/Overdrive. I have no knowledge of the other OD's and GB's. Roger

Hi Iain, I make a version of the Logic box. It does all the things you want. As for the switch. I use a press button on the end of a stalk that is near my right hand finger so changes are quick and easy. The Moss switch for the 4A This thing is fairly easy to modify. Remove the spring loaded ball so the lever flops about and then bias it off with foam sponge etc. (or another spring) Roger

Hi Shaf, be very careful with those Lucas switches. There are a number that look very similar. The TR4A light switch will not run a DR3 two speed motor as fitted to a TR4A. Also the 4A light switch is a pull switch not a toggle. Have a look here - https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/lucas-toggle-switch-2-speed-wiper/ I use this switch on my 4A but it it is a TR6 Motor 14W. If you have a multi meter you can work out whether or not the switches will do the job Roger

The major problem is if it does 'not' fall off. The rust continues under the paint skin year on year. Eventually you have a hollow paint shell (perhaps a bit of imagination there). The point is that it does not actually protect the metal. Being quite hard it can easily chip - moisture enters - rust is let loose. Roger

......and than ask yourself the question - why did I get the chassis powder coated. Doh!! Roger