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Darren Groves

TSSC AO
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Everything posted by Darren Groves

  1. There's a simple calculation when decided what rated cable and fuse to use on any electrical installation, Watt divided by Voltage, therefore if your fan was say 120w, divided by 12v gives 10amp (in reality you'd probably want a 15amp), if it were on a 24v installation then it would be 5amp, you get the idea. There are definitely 2 camps on whether electric fans are a good modification or not. I went to electric, but have now gone back to mechanical. There's an interesting article on the Canley's website: http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/overheating Personal choice at the end of the day.
  2. I have the same tyre on 4.5j steel wheels, though I believe 165's are better suited to 5j, 6j sounds a bit too wide really. There is a selection of useful utilities on this website: http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/ however it's not actually working at the moment, but keep trying. Fitting the same size tyre on a different width wheel does affect the rolling radius, so even though we have the same size tyre the rolling radius will differ, which of course affects your speedo reading. Tracking should be set with all for seats loaded with around 70/75kgs. If you search this forum it has been explained by our resident guru Pete Lewis....
  3. Can anyone recommend a good glue to attach the P-Seal on the screen frame (the seal between the screen frame and quarter light). Can't remember what I used last time but it didn't work very well....
  4. You need to get in contact with John Bonnett, you can see the thread here: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/9-aluminium-bodied-gt4/page-6&do=findComment&comment=2853
  5. There are many similarities, but not everything. I normally use Canleys website to check part numbers, which you could then cross reference across the various models. Personally I have always found Moss very expensive (as are Rimmers) and never even consider them unless I cannot source elsewhere. If the cost of p&p is your deciding factor on where to buy parts then you may find purchasing from Canleys or James Paddock or similar may save money even if you are paying their p&p costs. James Paddock do free shipping on orders over £10.00 and are always competitively priced.
  6. I use 165/70/13 and they fit fine, very close rolling radius to original crossply tyres.
  7. When you re-torque you should slacken each nut off slightly, don't start from its originally torqued position.
  8. Can't say as I'd never heard of Nodiz. MJ is well documented on the web, everything you need is available from Trigger Wheels or you can source the Ford items via eBay or breakers.
  9. Monthly meetings for North Devon start on 7th May, if your close enough to get there, we'd love to see you!
  10. I wouldn't be, the guy is an irritating numpty......
  11. I doubt very much if they changed the steering column support through production. Apart from the obvious differences between saloon & convertible, the only other difference I know of are the spacings for the wiper wheelboxes. I presume it's the Y shaped support bracket that is causing the problem? I can't remember if this is reversible or not, but have you tried flipping it over.
  12. Get the drain removed from the replacement tank, nobody dare open them anyway as you'll end up snapping it off, without it it's really easy to fit/remove. Most radiator places will do petrol tank repairs and should be happy to blank off the hole. I done it myself, but not really recommended..... I put a large grommet in the hole in the boot floor, though you could choose to do something a little more permanent.
  13. Order direct from www.autosparks.co.uk and save yourself some money
  14. It's still on the road....sorry, doesn't help much. You could try contacting Phil Willson (13/60 Register Secretary), he may know of it.
  15. Yes & Yes..... Whilst the head is off worth checking it has been converted to unleaded, if not get hardened valve seats fitted (exhaust only).
  16. Thanks Clive. I was leaning towards making my own, think that's the way to go.
  17. I'm in the middle of a some remedial work on the Herald, mainly replacing the rusty wheelarches. I also decided to remove all the sills and valances as driving on the muddy Devon roads has taken its toll, and I was really quite surprised at how much mud had been thrown up underneath the car, particularly into the rear valances. I don't think I've ever seen mud flaps on a Herald or Vitesse (not that I've ever particularly looked), so wondered if there's anyone that has fitted them and if they look OK and actually work. The ones available from the usual traders (below) don't really look like they'll fit too well. Any thoughts?
  18. There's already a thread on this subject, have a look here: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/223-fuel-pump/?hl=facet&do=findComment&comment=1469
  19. The 53kb limit was removed a while back, there are several threads about this topic. Sorry, can't help with your starter problem!
  20. Make sure the engine earth strap is present and making a good connection, it's normally on or around the timing cover, you could test my using a jump lead from the engine to battery earth. Maybe starter a bit stiff. You could remove and bench test, but do ensure it's well secured in a vice. I'm sure others will have more suggestions.
  21. I converted my Herald to an electronic flasher unit, details of how and what I bought to do it is here: http://triumphherald1360.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/electronic-flasher-units.html The only issue it caused was light on the dash no longer worked, but there is a simple change to the wiring which fixes that. Not sue if the same on a GT6, but if the old relay earths via the dash light then the principle is the same.
  22. I watched it, thought it was pretty awful apart from the TR7 feature. Will watch one more time, if no better will probably give it a miss.
  23. Do you mean the nuts in items 29~31 in the diagram? If so they are all available and cheap so doesn't matter if they won'y go again. I'd just make sure you get a spanner on in that's a good fit so you don't round it off, other than that just apply as much force as necessary.Never had a problem removing before.
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